mvusse

Keep that one looking nice, and look for something kind of like this to build up and wheel. Rusted and dented badly enough to not have to worry about rock rash.

Yeah, Trucks is still on reruns of Cheap Cherokee.

I like your Rubbermaid relay enclosure.

I have a 4.0/5 speed in my 94 XJ, and think 3.07 is about right with P235/75R15 tires. When starting from a standstill around town I run through all the gears, cruising 40mph in 5th. 30 mph I run 4th. And accelerating fast because of an incredibly short on ramp I spun the tires in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Finally shifting to 4th didn't squeal, but I was going 60 by then. If I remember right, 3.07 gears are 43/14.

I'm guessing when you actually run it dry, you will find it either reads below empty, or more likely it will read empty anywhere between 0 and 4 or 5 gallons of gas left.

I have an 87 with the 4.0. It has a 23.5 gallon tank instead of 13.5 listed. That is the optional larger tank. The base lwb tank is listed in my manual as 16 gallons and the swb only had an 18.5 gallon tank available, again straight from my manual.

The CCV orifice inside the valve cover (the grommet the thin vacuum line goes to) is probably carboned up. Take off the valve cover, clean out orifice (should be 2.4mm or almost 1/8" diameter) and reinstall with a new gasket.

The bore of a 1964 327 is 4.001" with a 3.25" stroke. So 1/6 scale would be a bore of .667" and a stroke of .542" .25 * .667 squared * PI = .349 square inches * .542 *8 = 1.51 cubic inches but he lists the bore as being 0.600" and the stroke as 0.487", so .25 * .6 squared * PI = .283 square inches * .487 * 8 = 1.10 cubic inches. Remember, PI r squared, or 1/4 PI d squared. The bore is diameter, not radius. Divide the bore by 2 to get the radius. And yes, way cool!

If you take it easy, and don't use over sized tires, the 35 might be fine. Run it until (if) it breaks, then find a 44 or Ford 8.8 to replace it with.

Buy using the bottom part, up to and including the bottom half of the sliders off the MJ seat, you can slide XJ seats onto them. The sliders are the same, just the bottom brackets are different. But you will have to weld a rod onto the passenger slider as the MJ bench seat just has a cable going from the driver side handle to the passenger side release. Or drill out the spot welds to take the MJ bottom brackets off, and bolt them to the XJ sliders using some 1/4" bolts. Fuel pumps are the same. The difference is in the sender unit.

X2. I have those on my 94 XJ.

I agree with using AAL for s short term solution. If they start to sag and you're not ready to redo the rear yet, or you need a bit more to match the front you can use Chevy drop shackles to bring the rear back up a bit more. I myself will try to SOA to match my front 4.5" this summer and hope I can manage it using a few tricks. I really can't go much higher without getting larger tires to keep it looking right. And I don't have $1000 for 5 new wheels and 33" tires yet. I'm keeping the old perches on the axle, though, so if I can't do it I can always go back to the set up I have now.

I run 235/75R15 tires and even with those I rubbed the inner fender off road (with stock suspension). A 4.5" lift did not change that, and actually made it a bit worse, as it now rubbed the inside of the frame below the fenders under articulation, and the frame sits 1/2" or so closer to the tire yet. I added 1.25" spacers and under full articulation, limited by my shocks, I still have 1/8" between the tire and the inside fender wall, and easily stuff it inside the fender. Wider tires would need less backspacing, and with the correct amount might still stuff under articulation. But then, if the truck goes straight down from carrying a load it would hit the flares. Even mine might, I'm not sure without going out to look at it. But at 4.5" lift, if both my rear tires are up that far, I'm severely overloading it. Disclaimer: Not that I have never overloaded it in the past, pretty much sitting on the stops and breaking both (at that time recently replaced) stock springs. I am being a bit nicer to my new lift springs, though.

I believe that's the first time I watched a video of people I have never met that made me grip the armrests of my chair. Yeah, crane climbing stupid about covers it.

If he gave the high bidder a second chance at $6500 he'd made the deal of the century and I'd feel sorry for the sucker that got it. $2K max.

actually a t-case crosmember that drops the t-case 1" but has more clearance than factory and can take more abuse. More clearance I can understand, and being able to take more abuse is always good, but there's no reason to need to drop the transfer case down. This is an MJ, not an XJ.

Why a transfer case drop?

The bolt the ps pump pivots on is on the front near the top, loosen this one. There are 2 bolts on the back that need to be loosened a little so they can slide in their slot, and the bolt on the threaded end of the tensioner bolt also needs to be loosened to allow it to slide in its slot. Almost impossible to do with the aux. electric fan and air filter housing in place; both have to be removed. And yes, the person who designed that set up needs to be strung up by his scrotum. I just did all that to get the idler pulley back on after replacing the bearing in it.

Basically remove the front shocks, jack up the front of the truck, put the FRAME on jack stands, drop the axle down, remove the bottom spring retainers, remove the bump stops, and pop the springs out. How far the truck has to be lifted depends on how tall the old and new springs are. If they are lift springs you may have to disconnect the passenger side upper control arm and the track bar to allow the axle to drop far enough. If they are 6.5" lift springs you may have to disconnect all 4 upper and lower control arms. Pipe wrench may be needed for the bump stops. A good half inch drive socket set (metric) with 2 breaker bars, a set of standard depth sockets and a set of deep well sockets will be needed if the lower control arms are to be removed as those bolts are tight. Spec is 131 foot pounds. For the spring retainer either a 12 or 13mm (can't remember which, I believe 12) wrench or socket (3/8" drive will do). Top of shocks most likely takes 9/16" wrench, bottom can be left alone. And most importantly a can of PB Blaster.

I have seen that in person as well. :D

Well, I took the idler pulley out of the Comanche to fix the Cherokee, then after dropping off my daughter and a friend at the movie theatre I went to TSC and bought a new bearing. They are not the cheapest place (these same bearing are available for <$2 mail order), but $6.29 for a bearing still beats $21.99 for a pulley. So tomorrow I should have 2 working vehicles again.

Idler pulley is fixed. I needed more seatbelts than the Comanche had to offer, so I cannibalized it to fix the Cherokee.

I will try to remember to take some pictures of the brackets. They are just not going to work the way they are.

I stole an idler pulley off it to fix the Cherokee.

With 6.5" lift some a longarm kit would be recommended for the front. If not, you're going to need at least longer (adjustable) upper and lower control arms, of course shocks, as well as brake lines. SOA will usually look right with 6.5" front springs, but 4.5" springs and spacers will net you the about same amount. Quite often DW is caused by an elongated hole in the track bar bracket on the frame end.