mvusse

If it has a fulltime 4wd option between 2wd and part time 4wd, you have a 242 (2wd, 4wd full time, 4wd part time, neutral, 4 low range). If not you have a 231 (2wd, 4wd high range, neutral, 4wd low range). Or crawl underneath and look at the little round plate on the transfer case itself. Oh, and congrats on the new ride!

If those boomerang shackles are designed to lift a Cherokee 1.5", as I believe they are, they will lift a Comanche only about 5/8". Not only is the stock MJ shackle 1.5" longer than a stock XJ shackle, but the amount of spring in front of and behind the axle are a 2:3 ratio, not 1:1 as on most vehicles. So a 5" longer shackle (which would be REALLY long) would be needed to lift the rear 2". If the rear already sits higher than the front, it might look okay. If not I would have the rear springs re-arched, or buy a 3" lift pack from RE or MO.

If it's a Renix, you can do without the valve without any side effects. Just plug the vacuum hose with a golf tee. On the HO (Chrysler) engines, I have heard that the valve is indeed necessary, but I have not verified this on my Cherokee yet.

Fuel filter, sock on fuel pump or fuel pump iself.

Go to Autozone or Advance Auto parts, or any such store and borrow a pickle fork.

Drove about 480 miles round trip to pick up 4 33x12.50x15s from Big Dawgz (Thanks, and great to meet you). 60mph on the way there: 20 mpg (19.88) 70mph on the way back: 20 mpg (20.26) So the HO gets better mileage at 70 than at 60, and going 70 it gets better than the 4.0 Renix/auto in my MJ. But the MJ still gets better at 60 (24 mpg).

I would not be worried as much going uphill towing a rig like that, as going downhill. Unless the trailer brakes worked real good, AND the trailer has chains on it. Nothing like locking up your trailer brakes on the snow going downhill and watch the tail of it pass you by as it jackknifes. But yeah, snow wheeling can be fun. A little less rocky, a few less trees and it could be the Lake Huron/Georgean Bay area in Ontario.

The squirrel cage draws a lot of power. When I have the fan on full speed as well as the headlights, the alternator can't keep up at idle and voltage drops to the edge of the red zone after a minute or so. The moment the engine revs up just a bit because I'm starting moving again, it pops right back up to the middle. And the lights brighten noticeably. Old alternator did it till death wobble fried it's bearings, new alternator does it, battery is fine. And I have the high amp alternator. I did find out the alternator output is rated at 2000 rpm. Don't know how fast the engine has to rev to spin the alternator at 2000 rpm, though, as I never measured the crank and alternator pulleys.

3000 rpm for a 4 cylinder is not high. Small displacement can't make a lot of torque, so to make up for that and still make some HP they rev higher. With a smaller rotating mass, it is easy for them to rev higher also. I would like to know what red line for the 4.0 is, but without a tach, it shouldn't matter anyway. My Ford 302 was built to handle 6500 rpm, but the valve springs were too weak, causing the valves to start floating around 6200. That worked as a built in rev limiter that probably saved the engine a few times when I was in a bad mood. Good thing I have mellowed out a bit as I've grown older.

Neutral safety switch would cause it to not crank. You say you have fuel and spark, and checked the timing. That would mean it cranks. Broken timing chain, or worn away sprocket? Be more specific about what exactly it does and does not when you try to start it. How old is the fuel? What do the spark plugs look like?

Bought it a valentines day present. Aussie for the front axle.

My 91 Geo Prizm (rebadged Toyota Corolla) gave me the selection of using AC with the defrost or not. But other vehicles with AC in my past (81 Caprice, 84 Caprice, 84 Olds 98, 84 Chevy 20 conversion van, 94 Suburban) all turned the AC on with the defrost setting with no option to turn it off. But by looking back at the list, they are all GM.

It sounds like a timing issue, but since timing is not adjustable I also put my money on the gas.

Please elaborate.

He's been posting now and then.

I myself have been surprised by my long bed. It hooks up better than any other pickup I have driven. Combine about 180hp with relatively low weight, end yes, they take off pretty good. My stick shift HO Cherokee on the other hand will break loose and smoke the tires if not in 4wd. And smoke them again and again shifting to 2nd and 3rd. I'm not talking a little squeek either, but a good 2 or 3 seconds for each for 2nd and 3rd. I don't race, but sometimes to merge onto the highway you need to get up to speed fast to make that one hole between 2 cars. Especially around Toronto or Detroit.

I just checked out http://www.greendiamondtire.com/ and WOW! Retreads that cost more than new tires.

I'm confused as well. This is fromt the site:

2.8 was only available in 86, 4.0 became available in 87. You need to modify your firewall a bit (A few whacks with a BFH should do it), but I think you have to change stuff in the front of the engine bay as well, like radiator supports and stuff to swap a 4.0 in. Get a 3.4 out of a Camaro, complete with EFI, computer and wiring and swap that in. Same basic block, direct bolt in, but better longevity, more HP, more torque and better fuel economy.

Yes, and a wheel alignment.

yes. i think you're correct. :oops: i don't think they use bfg only. i'd be interested in what your buddy has to say about them. i don't know how much cheaper they would be after shipping, mounting, and balancing. His sidewalls say Bridgestone Dueller AT. I think he paid just over $400 for 4 of them shipped. They are 31x10.50x15 M/T-G. He then paid $15 per tire to have them mounted and balanced, so about $460 total. he's happy with the so far, although he did get stuck in the mud enough that he had to use 4wd to get out. Then again, my Comanche had to be pulled out of the same spot :oops: by a ZJ.

235's are 28". i think a 30 inch tire would look perfect with a 1-2" lift. i think tires should look like they will "work" rather than look "big". stuffing a tire under a truck that is not functional for the intended purpose, off road. if the truck has too big of tires, they don't allow the suspension to articulate, they rub, they look like you just stuffed them in there. i much prefer a functional look. :chillin: the tire shouldn't be too big or too small. i think a 29-30" would look "right". it would also be totally functional. by the way mvusse, i like the look of your combination of lift and tire size. i would think it would be great off road and running around. :thumbsup: It's okay off road until I get into muddy ruts. All the trucks with larger tires eat down the ruts and by the time I get there I'm sitting on the axles without the tires touching anything solid. And it being a lwb my departure angle sucks, but I have a new rear bumper in the planning that along with the trailer hitch being removed should give me 4" additional clearance out back. Now back to the original topic... The math on the 235s say 29", but in reality they measure 28.25" to 28.5" between 3 brands I measured. Most 30s measure anywhere between 29 and 29.5. Not much of a difference. My buddy has 31s and they barely measure 30".

What are you getting the front D44 off?

A buddy of mine is running their 31x10.50 15 M/T-Rs on his Dakota and is quite happy with them so far. Has only had them for 6 months or so, though. I don't think they use BFG carcasses exclusively, though. They use whatever they can get their hands on and passes their quality tests. I'll have to see what's on the Dakota.

This is 4.5" lift and P235/75R15, about equivalent to 29x9.50 or 30x9.50