mvusse

Why go through all that trouble just so you don't have to bleed the brakes?

Just googled it. Never thought about it, but seems easy enough, and I can get the parts from pull-a-part in Cleveland for $50 total. Thanks!

When tuning your antenna, park in the middle of a large deserted parking lot. Any structure nearby, like building and even cars will affect it. Despite what dealers tell you (they want to see more to make more $$$), length of cable has no effect on SWR. At least not measurably with my equipment. A good ground plane is a must, an even ground plane is better. Best spot on a Comanche is middle of the bed, second best is middle of the hood, third best is middle of the roof. A 5/8 wave whip (about 10 feet long) will almost universally give you a low SWR. These antennas can't be tuned and don;t need tuned. Most people opt for a shorter antenna, often fiberglass. These must be tuned. The longer the antenna, the better usually, but quality also plays a large factor. My 3' Firestick is better than my 4' Radio $#!&. And you want as much of the antenna to be higher than anything surrounding it. For this, the roof is the best spot. Also, the little plastic cap on top of the antenna makes a difference. Remove the cap, move the adjustment screw, REPLACE cap, test SWR. My SRW with the cap is currently 2.6 at channel 12. Best I can get with the antenna in the stock radio antenna location on the fender (going to be moved to roof at some point in time, tough). Remove the cap and it jumps up to 3.3. A 10 foot whip gives me an SWR of 1.2, but looks just too damned long. Bending the tip down with fishing line makes it shoot up well into the 2s. Some of this is theory, most of it I have personally tested or is from personal experience.

If you were closer I would have jumped on that. But by the time I add gas for a 1200+ mile round trip it's not worth it anymore.

Still $2.32

If you try, let me know if it works. I just priced brake parts to see what they would cost for my 8.25" and I'm looking at $118.94 plus tax; I need everything except cylinders. Cheaper to go pull-a-part and get another one with brakes still attached.

For off road I would suggest a push fan in front of the radiator. That way when you go into deep water the fan blades can't pull themselves into the radiator, but will actually try to pull away. For a street vehicle pull fans might be more efficient.

No clue. I got them off Ebay. The Suburban ones were new and cost me a little over $100. The Jeep ones were used and cost me $30, but I had to replace a stud and they came without lug nuts. They were both hub centric. Maintenance? What sort of maintenance can you do to a a machined block of billet aluminum?

take an out of state check? :dunce: Sure. You want me to PM you my address? :roll:

Dropped from 2.38 to 2.34 yesterday, 2.32 today.

I had a 4wd Suburban. Front wheels sat out more than the rear and I thought it looked stupid. Bought a pair of spacers. Put ~ 40,000 miles on it with the spacers, to Florida and back, multiple times to Canada and back, towing a trailer to WV and back as well as to Kentucky and back, hauled over 6000 pounds of drywall for 30 miles (yes, it was squatting a bit with that one), and never had a single problem. Currently have spacers one the back of the Comanche because 1 - the rear wheels sit inside the wheel wells more than the front, which looks stupid, and 2 - to keep the shoulder of the rear tires away from the inside wall of the wheel well under flex. So far I've put more than 10,000 miles on those spacers including multiple trips to Canada as well as off road for 9 days. No problems so far.

I believe they were common in bread trucks as well. That would be the one you want for a vehicle.

The 8 hour drive each way is not a problem, but with gas prices by then being above $3 per gallon, are you going to pay $150 or so for my fuel?

Sounds like a great party in the making, but just a little too far away.

At least you can't make fun of him for using mile long shackles, blocks or body lift...

:popcorn:

Hello, my name is Marcel and I'm a Comancheholic. Live in Strasburg, Ohio. 75 minute drive north puts me on the Lake Erie shoreline next to the rock and roll hall of fame in Cleveland.

That blows! Now to take your mind off it for a second: Did you get the temp and oil pressure gauge in your new gauge cluster working yet? I would get a new lifetime warranty radiator, and get everything else used.

This guy was at JeepSkool in April.

Up to $2.29 last week, down to $2.24 and now $2.38.

My 23.5 gallon tank took almost 26 gallons on the first fill up after installing it empty.

If that radiator is going into a truck with a manual gearbox, you can always use the tranny cooler or either an oil cooler, running your engine oil through it, or a power steering cooler.

Off road you should be in low range. I can't imagine even a 2.5 being gutless in low range. 4.10 axles can be found under 2.5, 5 speed Cherokees and Comanches, and quite a few exploders. But with anything larger than stock tires you want to go deeper. Swapping a 4.0 into an 86 might hit a few snags on the firewall, but nothing that can't be overcome with a BFH

I have a set of hooks from Custom 4x4 on the Comanche and like them. Installation wasn't that bad, and after some abuse pulling vehicles and dragging downed trees they are doing fine. There's a set of hooks on the Cherokee that may or may not be the factory ones as I never looked that closely at them. Even if they are, they were not factory installed as the cut outs on the air dam are a hack job.