mvusse

No offense intended. Pennsylvania is the next state over from us, and they don't allow any visible rust on cars in that state. Big joke here in Ohio. Was meant to be funny.

'fraid you have no option other than removing the coil.

Took one rear brake apart, cleaned out all dirt and sand, put it back together. Drinking a mug of tea now before heading out to do the other one. One trip off road and my brand new shoes are ground down to less than half the brake material. Might be able to get a second trip out of them, then might as well install brakes on the new axle and put it under. If those drum brakes will also only last two off road trips, I will get a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes to throw it under there. Here's an excerpt of the the price list of my new favorite yard: So $101, and they have like 35 Explorers.

My guess is play in the track bar at the frame end. It only takes a minuscule amount of play to allow DW to occur. If that's not it, it could be control arms or their bushings (lower ones more likely than upper ones), tie rod ends, ball joints, alignment.... Do what Pete said. Crawl under and grab each piece of metal that has to do with suspension or steering and see if it has any play in it.

The size center pins we need (3/8? Can't remember any more) usually come with a 9/16 head. The Ruff Stuff perches have 1/2" holes. Either grind down the heads of the pins to 1/2", or drill out the holes in the perches to 9/16.

What happened? Kicked it too hard? :D

No title should not affect you directly as you are not trying to plate it. But junk yards will not take it without a title. So after parting it out you will have to chop it into bite size pieced to take to the scrap metal yard. That is based on Ohio laws. I'm assuming AZ is similar.

I have had that happen once, about half a year ago or so. I hit Submit and it brought me to the forum index, not the login screen. Ever since then I have copied long posts to the clip board before submitting, but it has never happened again.

That truck must have had some serious frame rot.

Front suspension and drive train are a direct bolt in. I would save up your money or buy a few pieces at a time to come up with the following for the front: 5.5" or 6.5" lift springs, adjustable lca adjustable uca adjustable track bar sway bar quick discos YJ front brake hoses longer shocks and for the rear 95 Dakota rear brake hose, longer shocks. You will also need to think about what you will be doing for rear shock mounts, and about the load sensing rear brake valve. Control arm drop brackets give you a better ride, but depending on what type of wheeling you do that may like to get caught on stuff. Sway bar relocation bracket is one way to go; I personally went with sway bar quick discos that can be adjusted to work anywhere from 3" to 6.5" lift. Adjustable control arms let you play with locating the front axle exactly where you want it to minimize rubbing (less important with 33x10.50 than it is with 33x12.50) as well as adjust the pinion angle/caster angle.

Take the diameter of the axle tube plus the thickness of the original spring under perch, add the thickness of the new spring over perch and the thickness of the leaf pack. That is how much higher the truck will be. I can't remember exactly for sure, and I'm not going outside right now to measure, but I believe with a stock leaf pack, D35 and Ruff Stuff Specialties perches will lift 5.25". I will try to remember to measure tomorrow.

I used the Ruff Stuff perch. My local suspension shop machined down the heads of the center pins to 1/2" to fit. I suppose drilling out the hole(s) in the perch to 9/16 would work just as well. My brake lines hook around the bottom of the perch behind the axle.

:eek:

Air filter.

XJ leafs are almost flat. MJ leafs are curved. Adding an XJ main leaf may or may not give your spring packs a higher load rating, but probably won't give it any significant amount of lift, if any at all. You'd be better off adding leafs from a pack with about the same curve, like another MJ, or possibly an Exploder.

Yeah, I saw that too. Was going to reply, but didn't want to hijack the thread.

The ones with two ports have a valve in them. one port supplies vacuum from the engine, the other port provides vacuum to whatever. Even if the engine loses vacuum due to hard acceleration, the ball maintains vacuum because the valve doesn't allow it to leak out through the engine supply line. The football shaped ones with two ports on each end are two reservoirs in one housing. I originally had a ball with 2 ports, but the mounting tabs had busted off when the deer mangled the bumper. My new bumper had a football shaped one inside (of a 19?? XJ Limited) with only 1 single port one 1 end. It mostly works, but long grades still make the heater flapper move to the defog vents. Much better than no reservoir at all, though, and good enough that I never worried about changing it.

Yeah, but no matter what you have the heater selector switch set to, it will start blowing through the defog vents on top of the the dash whenever you accelerate or pull a grade. You could get a ball off a junk yard XJ, and put it under the hood near the relays.

Put a C clamp on each side of the center pin and take the pin out. Then put in a new pin turned around from how it is now. Old center bolts should not be reused as they have probably weakened with age. I also don't think that aerosol can will propel your truck very well. Where would the drive shaft hook up? :D I have a local store to me that deals in among other things suspension components. They have had every center pin I ever needed in stock. Summit racing also carries some. If you completely strike out, let me know and I can buy them here and mail them to you. edit: dang you all fast typers. 3 replies while I was typing this!

XJ fuel sender is mirror image of MJ. If the MJ has an internal pan inside the tank, as all stock and some after market tanks do, an XJ sender unit will not work. It interferes with the side if the pan. It may work in an after market tank without a pan. Yes, parts stores show them as being interchangeable. Parts stores are wrong. Correct MJ fuel sender units are not being produced any more. Pumps are the same, for the same engine. HO pumps is not the same as Renix pump. HO sending unit is not the same as Renix sending unit. It reads backwards and is not calibrated the same.

What? You from Pennsylvania or something? The entire body is rotting away. I will wheel it 'till it falls apart, then buy a rust free short bed from the south and move everything over.

The fan blades didn't hit, the clutch did. At rest fan blades are 1 9/16" from the radiator. Clutch is 3/4" away. I fixed the radiator for now by squeezing shut the channels that were damaged. I'm hoping the problem will go away when I install my 8.25", which will let the drive shaft engage the transfer case one more inch. Today's updates: Old and new driver side axle shaft: and new axle shaft after removing the ABS ring: 89 and older hubs do not work with the ABS ring. Remove the ring and everything fits fine. Passenger side shaft will be replaced when I can afford another $28.98 for the second 5-760x u-joint. Even the parts counter guy where I got them commented that they were "expensive little buggers" after looking up the price. At least I have a local source 10 minutes from my house that keeps them in stock. I hope they don't break because Spicer probably will not honor any sort of warranty when they figure out they were used off road. Autozone warrantied out the Duralast one I busted no questions asked. The replacement will go into the Cherokee as the driver side one is squeeking. Also new dash: and old dash, with mud from last trip off road with window open: Tomorrow weather permitting I will drain and refill both axles as I once again have chocolate milk in them. and she should be good to drive again. Will also have to take the rear brakes apart and flush all the sand out of them again. Every time I go through the water at JeepSkool (and they have a bunch of it) I end up with water in my axles and sand in the brakes. The guy that runs the show has had the brakes on his JK replaced 5 times now, with only 20k miles on it. But he doesn't care, as it's done under the "lifetime, unlimited miles" warranty he got on that vehicle.

Replaced busted front shaft with a new ABS shaft with 5-760x u-joint. Had to remove the ABS sensor ring to fit on a 87 (89 and older) hub. Then took it to the hardware store for a new cotter pin for the spindle nut lock, followed by the boy scouts' recycling station to drop off about 10 empty milk jugs.

JeepSkool stuck (not me, though): They tried to winch every direction, the only way it would budge was backwards. But then something snapped and this is how it came out: The guy with the "Staff" shirt in the last pic runs the show. He was not amused. That was one of his trail leaders in a stock Jeep who decided he could run a trail meant for hard core rigs...