Blue XJ

I know it's not technically a state, but DC should be number 1 on the list.

I'd replace them with spicer 297's, or 760's if your not opposed to grinding the inside of the yoke a little to make room for a circle clip. I would not put more grease in them, if they required more grease, they would come with more grease.

I've had the surface on the knuckle that the pads ride on get a groove in it from the pads. They can get hung up in the groove and lock up the brakes. Odd it would happen to both sides at the same time but I guess it could. 5 minutes with a welder and a flap wheel and it's good as new.

I picked up a set from Rock Auto, the slave would leak where the line went into it. I ended up doubling up the o-ring and it's been good so far.

Kind of pricey, but it looks almost brand new. Location is about an hour north of Detroit. http://saginaw.craigslist.org/pts/4503604481.html

A trans temp gauge is always a good one to have, assuming your running an auto.

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I used to have a 2 gauge pod in my Jeep. It fit the a-pillar trim in my 90 XJ perfectly. I'll see if I can find a picture of it tonight when I get home.

I'm sure someone else will chime in with the stock measurements, but measure from the centerline of the wheel to the fender flare. Measuring from the tire won't tell you anything, since the tires aren't a stock size.

My last daily driver was a 6 speed, it was really hard to go back to an auto for a daily driver. My wife's hot rod is a 4 speed manual, at first it was enough to cure the itch of driving a stick every once in a while, but I ended up just pulling my AW4 and putting an AX15 in my Comanche. It'll be interesting the first few times rock crawling with a manual, that's for sure.

I'm not? They run to the brake booster area to keep them out of water, they arent connected to the vacuum system.

Got a part number for it? I ended up buying the one from Hesco. It wasn't cheap but it dropped right in and worked perfectly.

I don't disagree with your statement about cold air working. But that's not a fair comparison. A turbo charged car will have an intercooler to cool the air before it goes into the engine, but it does a much different job than putting a cold air intake that sucks 5 degree colder air in does. The turbo will add a significant amount of heat to the air it is compressing and the intercooler removes that heat, I don't know the numbers, but I assume its probably 75-100+ degrees cooler coming out of the intercooler. Your cold air intake will pull heat from another source under the hood that is maybe 5-10 degrees cooler.

I've looked at those as well, but I wasn't sure how they'd hold up with 35's. If they last a while, I might get a few sets of them.

I run my front axle vent tube up the upper control arm, I have it ziptied to the arm, then it goes up the firewall to over the brake booster in the engine compartment. My rear axle I just have a long hose running straight up to the bed, then forward to the brake booster in the engine compartment. I used 3/8" clear tubing for all of them, since its cheap.

If you go offroad with it, I would get a 'cold air intake' of some sort just to raise the filter up higher. If you don't, the stock setup is probably fine. I have't read anything that proves you get any power increases from an aftermarket intake on the 4.0

Check your fuel pump ballast resistor on the drivers side fender. Connect both wires directly together and try starting it. Mine went bad and caused the same issue you are having. The nice thing is it's like a $5 part only!

I cut out the areas that had the pin holes. I figured if I just patched them, they would continue to grow and become larger rust holes eventually. I had an old hood laying around, so I used the metal from that to patch more or less the entire foot well. I figured that metal was already coated for rust from the factory and had primer/paint on both sides, so I would be better off than if I used regular sheet metal.

Husky Liners, have them in all of our cars.

Spicer or Moog are fine. I would avoid TRW. I went through those about once a year, which included 5-8,000 miles and 3-4 wheeling trips.

Came across this MJ at Davey's Jeeps, but of course it's already sold. Someone fess up, who here bought it from him. Looks to be in excellent shape with the exception of a couple rust holes http://daveysjeeps.com/repairables/R535920.html

Sorry I didn't snap a pic for you, when I came back to check on the thread I saw the one that was posted, so I figured your all set.

If nobody replies today, I can snap a pic this evening for you. I just went the other way, from an AW4 to an AX15.

I used my 140 amp lincoln to weld my perches on about 8 years ago, I haven't had an issue yet. Make sure the metal is spotless on both pieces, you could even bevel the ends of the perch, and do a couple passes if needed. I did one pass on mine on the outside, and then I welded them on the inside as best I could as well, since I wasn't sure if the welder was up to the task. You could always take a propane torch and warm the tube up in the area you will be welding. Edit: I used mine with flux core wire for the perches, flux core burns a little hotter and lets the welder do thicker metal than if you ran it with shielding gas.

Weld it up if you are able to. I've welded a few gas tanks / fuel lines. Just make sure there is no vapors left in them. Last tank I welded I filled with the welding gas to force out any fumes that may have been left inside.