gogmorgo

I've usually been able to visibly tell a resistor pack is bad. It's a bunch of coils of high-resistance wire which turn electricity into heat. Generally they've burnt themselves out like a lightbulb filament. You can ohm out the coils to confirm if you want, but you'll be looking at whether they'll carry current or not. If your fan is good, and the resistor pack is good, I would start looking at the switch next. As contacts in the switches go bad they'll start heating up and eventually start melting down the switch and burning connectors. There's also a not-unreasonable chance of similar issues elsewhere in the wiring, although I'm pretty sure there's a bunch of stuff that runs off the circuit for the blower motor, like the radio and wipers, so if those are working it eliminates a good chunk of tracing where the power stops. I'd start with looking for power at the resistor pack cause it's easiest, and then the switch.

Have you had the setup running? My '91 MJ would start and idle on 15 psi of fuel pressure with a bad pump but wouldn't really rev. What I find interesting is that you're not holding fuel pressure at all. It bleeds off as soon as the pump shuts off. That makes me suspect a pressure regulator problem, although I'm not too familiar with the '97+ fuel system setup. But I would still expect it to at least cough a little with some reassure going to the injectors.

It really does look grim for the two-door truck market. Not just for Jeeps. GM doesn't build one any more other than commercial cab and chassis models. Dodge's 2019 2500 and 3500 configurators aren't online yet but the 1500 has no regular cab, and it was only available in some trim levels on the 2018 HD's. The Titan did in both regular and XD spec but 2019 configurators aren't online yet either. The Tundra hasn't had a regular cab since the 2014 refresh. No midsize trucks come in a 2-door any more. The only half-ton regular cab you can buy in 2019 is the F150. The only confirmed 3/4- and 1-tons that I can find are also the Fords, with the unlikely possibility of Dodges and probability of the Titan XD. I encountered someone today defending crewcab shortbed trucks by saying he loved his. It was great because they had a sedan for commuting that got decent mpg, so that wasn't a big deal. But he could take his kids to the beach with his crewcab, he could get a 4x8 sheet of drywall in the bed (hanging over the tailgate) and it could pull his utility trailer full of mulch and yard waste or other dirty things. You know what else could do those things? A minivan. You can get the whole sheet of drywall inside without it hanging off the end or being exposed to the weather. It'll pull a utility trailer for mulch and yard waste and other dirty things, and it'll get better mpg than the truck while it's doing it. Not to mention it's got more space for the kids. So there you have it. Minivan buyers have killed the truck market. For those wondering, yes I dislike crewcabs pretty strongly. I can appreciate the want for a second row of seats but I don't think it's worth compromising the truck by adding wheelbase or decreasing cargo capacity. Crewcabs were once a niche market with limited availability, but the market has quietly reversed and now the regular cab is soon to exist only in our imaginations. The long bed is also working on going away in smaller trucks, with the F150 being the smallest truck and only half-ton where a bed 7' or longer is an option. It's a tragedy.

That's a '95 so things may look a little different in you MJ, but it's in the same place. Passenger side of firewall, just above the frame near the starter. That little nub it's pointing at is a hose barb of sorts that'll have a little rubber tube over the end, a short elbow of hose pointing downwards. Pop the tube off with a tug and you'll know it's plugged if water pours out. I just shoved a screwdriver through the tube to clear it out, and it's been fine ever since.

You might want to check the a/c drain tube to make sure it's not clogged

Has it been checked for codes? Clean up battery connections and get it tested, sure. I'd be looking at regular hard starting culprits myself, like spark plugs and wires, cap/rotor, etc. I'd especially be looking at ignition issues if it's not keen to start on starting fluid. And just cause I'm curious, how cold is "when it's cold out"?

Well that's one way to clear snow.

I don't know that it definitely was translated. But it's also a suspicious combination of old MJ specs and waffle about modern wranglers. Apparently the 2021 MJ will have a selection of engines, notably an AMXX 150 2.5L 4-cyl, a 150 CID 14, an LR2 2.8 V6. Plus there's a turbo-diesel power generator accessibility that they claim will be a very good engine. Hogswash. Just someone slapping a webpage together with key words to attract clicks and generate ad revenue. The rest of the website is similar "articles" about future releases of Jeep models, with added irrelevant Jeep concept photos tossed in for good measure.

Eagle's not really talking about a specific shifter, just a standard rotary switch. The AW4 is controlled by three solenoids, one for the torque converter lockup, and the other two are gear selection, which select 1-4 depending on how they're energized. So all you'd need is a rotary dial switch set up to energize the solenoids in proper combination to hit each gear. It's basically what the TCM does, just without the pre-programmed shift logic.

My guess is they chose to do it that way because the MJ doesn't have a high-mount third brake light, so there wouldn't really be any way to distinguish between lit brake lights and flashing hazards.

What tcase are you using? Can you not just reuse your 2-wire sensor? The wires for the trans run up the firewall to the passenger side of the head, where they connect to the main engine bay harness, IIRC.

Looks like it's shaping up to be a pretty dry winter here. We've had a couple small dumps, but mostly it's gone. Even the mountains don't have much on them. I haven't been up to the ski hill yet, word is it's pretty rough still. But at least it makes for decent skating.

The concept I want to see more of: Just with a longer bed. 7'. Jeep wants their truck to be more capable than others in its class; none of the competition has a 7' bed. Maybe even bump up the payload with a regular cab to 2200lbs. Seems like a decent formula to me for some reason? Can't quite put a finger on where I came up with it though...

Not really enough to affect anything. I've got the same diameter bulk line on both sides of mine.

X2 on poor connections. Starters do slow down over time, but usually they either work or they don't. I've had bad connections "out of the blue" pretty frequently. Recently about an hour into a road trip I pulled over to take a photo and then couldn't start it. Everything looked mostly fine, but all I got was a whirr-clunck then just the relay clicking. Someone else pulled off and I asked for a boost but it didn't help. We ended up bump starting it on a tow strap. I figured it was the starter so I drove straight to a parts store, but first I picked up one of the penci-sharpener style terminal cleaners, and went to town. The problem hasn't recurred. I also once had a no-crank no-boost in a hotel parking caused by a loose starter cable. Somehow the nut that held it onto the solenoid had backed halfway off. It had worked fine the rest of the trip and wasn't loose like it had just jiggled itself off, and didn't look recent either, so I don't know what's up with that.

Pop the drums off and inspect. You can make sure everything's moving nicely by hand, and then see what happens when a helper steps on the brakes. It likely won't hurt to bleed the stale fluid out of them, either. With the valve dangling, the rear brakes aren't doing much more while the truck's moving than while its parked, and I'm guessing you don't have much idea of how long the rod's been gone.

You should have an email with the part number you ordered. The brand matters less than what application it's for and whether or not it's compatible. I'm ASSuming you're looking at a 2.5/ax5 trans because you pulled it from an '86 and bolted it into an '89, but we're pretty clueless on that because AMC was using whatever parts they could afford to have on hand, which makes '86 a bit fuzzy.

I'm also thinking mechanical failure. Possibly something got caught in the drive and jammed it up. Those drives are pretty forceful, and don't really take no for an answer when they're spitting out a cd, and could easily have forced itself until it broke. They aren't that complex a machine to disassemble, with he right tools at least. I imagine you should also be able to find a new disc drive online. About a year ago, my brother, who is about as mechanically savvy as a doorstop, managed to fix his own MacBook Pro. His hard drive took a dump, and the tech at the Apple Store said he could fix it, but only back to factory which would be expensive, and told him what he really should do was take it down to some other computer store around the corner and they could put in a SSD for half the price. The other store said they couldn't do it either but he should buy one online and install it himself. But once he got home where he could do the work, he had no way to connect to the Internet to read the guides, so he called me. I've never had a MacBook apart either, but I found a decent write up with good photos, and walked him through the process, over the phone. Then I even managed to successfully walk him through the process of recovering data on the old drive, which both the Apple Store tech and that other place had told him was impossible. (The trick is using an older and "obsolete" version of OSx's disc utility.) So if my brother can repair a MacBook with instructions over the phone from someone who's never done it or even had a computer apart for almost ten years, I'd say anyone can do it.

Just a heads up, you may want to make sure your rear brakes are working properly and/or moving freely before messing with the load sensing valve. Drum brakes tend to seize up if you don't use them for a long time. I tied up my LSV lever shortly after I got my first MJ, and on the first firm application the rear brakes jammed on so hard I couldn't move the truck. Fortunately I was in a parking lot and not really obstructing traffic while I broke them loose.

How long have you run it? Sometimes it takes a bit for the charge to work through the whole system. Out of curiosity, what did you charge it with?

Unbolt the slave, hold it so the line leaves it as straight up as possible, and pump the piston up and down until you quit getting air bubbling up in the reservoir. What engine/trans do you have, and what clutch parts did you use? '86 could have had some funky stuff going on. Also, did you reuse your master cylinder? I don't know what the differences are, but there's parts number changes in between years and if you've done some recombining you may not have properly compatible parts.

Looks like home to me. I miss the hoar frost. Jasper is just too dry a climate for it.

Can you not just loop one hose around?

There's a bunch of threads in there to do with seat repair and replacement. It almost sounds like you're looking to replace your buckets with a bench?

That list is comparing apples and oranges. It neglects the fact the Gladiator isn't a crewcab long bed like the rest in the list. The short beds are all right around where the Ranger is, which incidentally isn't available as a crewcab longbed, so the quoted figure is the same configuration as the Gladiator. However it's smaller in every dimension except width which is so far from norm on that data set that I'm not convinced it's accurate; either a typo or it's including mirrors while the others don't, or something.