gogmorgo

I wouldn't grab junkyard rotors either. For what it'll cost you to make them serviceable again (if you can find someone to turn them back flat for you) you'll almost be better off just getting new. Plus almost every yard I've been to pulls wheels and leaves vehicles sitting on the rotors, drags rotors through dirt, etc, before they get them on stands if they even bother to do that. You're much better off with a new set.

What year is your MJ? Are you sure it's a ba/10 and are you sure you got a switch for the ba/10? There were overlap years. And I've had parts drones hear me say "four-litre" and select the four-cylinder. Again, different trans.

Stop. Go back. That "brake line" is a completely separate issue. It has zero to do with the cooling system. If it is a brake line, it has zero to do with your fuel tank vents. And the charcoal canister is on the complete opposite side of the engine from the exhaust manifold, so there's no possible way it's squirting anything onto it without thoroughly coating the entire engine bay, and your photos show zero evidence of that. You need to slow down and figure out what you're looking at, or no one will be able to help. And I say that because you're telling us you're experiencing problems that cannot possibly exist. You've got a 30 year old truck that could've had anything done to it over a long life, so there's no guarantee anything on it is still factory. You need to know what's going on with it. It's also not a new truck by any means, so it's quite possible there are a whole whack of problems with it that have nothing to do with each other. A leaking pipe, hose, whatever, is a problem that should be fixed. You need to establish what the line is for, what should be in it, and then what is leaking out of it; then if that's something that shouldn't be in it, why it's coming out of it.

Coolant spraying onto hot exhaust could also create steam?

Something is not as it seems here. You might want to trace that line really well to confirm its function. It may well be a brake line, but I suspect it is in fact a fuel tank vent line. But there really shouldn't be anything connecting it to the brake system. Hypothetically they both are connected by vacuum lines, via the brake booster, but I suspect you'd have extremely worse symptoms if somehow the two were causing problems with each other. Pop the vacuum line off the brake booster and you should have severed any connection between the two. 25 psi is higher than the cooling system is rated for. You shouldn't exceed cap pressure when you can avoid it. 14 psi in a Renix I think? Not sure, hopefully someone else confirms. But it sounds like you've located the coolant leak?

Do the lights come on when you jumper the switch and you're not in reverse? Sounds like bad switch to me. Pull it and verify operation before replacing.

It's not a very expensive windshield as they go, no. But it's not a very big chunk of glass, all things considered, and given how many XJ's have been pumped out, the cost of the tools themselves likely were amortized a long time ago.

Figured since the topic came up again I might as well post up a pic of the 200km/h speedo. If you look closely, the lines go beyond 200 to 210km/h; near as makes no difference 130mph.

Every time you think you made something idiot-proof, the world comes up with a better idiot. No offense meant to the OP of course. There's a ton of misinformation out there... I've probably even been guilty of spreading it myself unknowingly.

What's a PSM and why the funky font?

Pretty much. I don't know if it's trolling any more or if people are just dumb.

I've seen people on Facebook say they're close enough not to matter, but I wouldn't chance it. Any misalignment between the axle and frame mounts, and instead of just flattening out the arch of your spring as they flex, you'll also be twisting them, which will severely shorten the life of the bushings and spring. Although thinking about it now I don't remember if the relevant comments actually applied to MJs or s10 junk. Either way though, you don't want to use the wrong spacing.

And also it goes at the wheel end, not the driveshaft. Although I have occasionally heard axle shafts referred to as driveshafts... But it doesn't seem to fit with what the OP is saying.

Do you actually say it "Corbu"? I've only seen it written, but Corbeau is pretty clearly "core-BOH" to me. I don't have any experience with manufactured racing seats but I have participated in making one out of carbon fibre. We used dense foam to carve out a fairly comfortable seat shape, made a negative out of plaster to form a mold, then laid up the carbon fibre over the mold. I want to say we went about ten layers of 2x2 twill weave, with aluminum brackets poked through a few extra reinforcement layers where we needed to bolt it down. It came out lightweight, and rigid enough to support you but pliable enough to conform a bit for a touch more comfort.

Are you looking for the canopy, or a toneau type cover? Theres a thread on here that has tons of photos, also some ideas on trucks to source canopies from, as no manufacturer markets MJ canopies anymore. I also encountered a website a few years back that claimed to carry toneau covers, both hard and soft. I'll have to do some digging when I get home, see if I can find it again.

Hopefully it goes better for you than it did for me recently... I picked up a '91 2.5 2wd shortbed in great shape for what I thought was a price I couldn't pass up, caveat was it had an "overheating problem". Figured it was due to the super crusty radiator. After further investigation it turns out the coolant passages in head were plugged up (looks like stop leak...), which created a hot spot that burnt the gasket and melted a piston. Doing a compression check before you pull the head is still a good idea. Also, my money's still on a bad freeze plug.

Bad freeze plug seems most likely to me. Pulling the manifolds will get you a better look, and you'll want to do that anyhow if you're going to end up pulling the head. Head gaskets do sometimes fail without cross-contaminating fluids, although it's not particularly common. A compression test wouldn't hurt, especially if it's been run for quite a while with no water pump; that's a pretty important part.

X2 on the relay harness. Not only does it allow more current, it also prevents the headlight switch from setting your truck on fire. Also keep your bulbs clean or replace them if the glass is getting pitted, make sure they're aimed properly, then go from there. I've lived my whole life under Bortle 2 or 1 dark skies, and I've never found the stock lights inadequate. Just whatever you do, don't be the a$$hole out there blinding everyone else because he added brightness to compensate for a bad setup. I can kinda appreciate wanting brighter high beams, but 80W low beams are just too much for oncoming traffic.

I also laughed at the recommendation for the 9mm. You'll never need it for people, and it'll do sweet @#$% all on the off chance you encounter any problematic wildlife.

Even if you don't get the '97+ hoses you can just connect the lines together. But I definitely recommend the hoses. New rubber and fewer connection points means less chance of leaks.

Pictures would definitely be helpful here, as would a little more info about the truck. If your driveshaft actually came off at the differential, and came off with more than just the u-joint, either the pinion nut came off, or else the pinion gear itself broke off from its shaft. The shaft the ujoint flange is on is the same piece of steel as the pinion gear, and it comes out from the inside of the diff. So if thats what happened, then yeah something is right dickered. I'd say this is a good time to upgrade to a better rear axle. It's not worth rebuilding a Dana 35, either, if thats what you've got. If you want to retain it for simplicity, you should be able to locate another one with your ratio (likely 3.55 if you're 4.0/automatic, its the most common at least) as they're not particularly sought after. But whatever you do, definitely get new u-bolts. You can't trust these ones any more. Your u-joints likely arent long for this world either if they've been run with a crazy pinion angle.

Good brakes are almost always money well spent. But I will say, if eating core charge is a concern, just grab the callipers from the yard too, while you're at it. Send them back as a core.

Where'd you get the idea for the fenders? That really is a surprisingly close match that I don't know I ever would have thought of.

Make sure all the fasteners are tight for your control arms. When I bought my ZJ the PO said he hadn't been driving it because of death wobble. Just driving it around the block at under 20mph I could tell something wasn't right. Got underneath, and the bolts at the ends of the double-shear track bar had about 1/8" or so under the head and nut. They'd been torqued to spec, but the track bar came with distorted-thread nuts, and the run-down torque hadn't been accounted for. I couldn't actually get at the axle end nut because of where it sits (might be a low-pinion thing) and I ended up having to weld a flag onto the nut to hold it in place while torquing the bolt. I'm not saying it's necessarily your problem, but it's a thing that could happen. I'm not 100% on the tie-rod end endlessly spinning being totally normal, but they will need some degree of rotation to allow for steering. You may be able to very carefully hold the upper portion of the taper with needle-nose vicegrips to prevent it from spinning so you can torque it down properly, but you do run the risk of damaging the surface the boot seals against so that's probably a last resort.

Using an MJ as a parts donor will mean one less MJ on the road. That's really what it comes down to. The only real advantage to using an MJ as a donor is you're more likely to get a rear driveshaft in the correct length, but generally a custom driveshaft won't set you back the difference in price vs a rotted out XJ. Although you will get a whole whack of spare MJ-specific parts with an MJ as a donor, so maybe if you have space to keep them around that might pay for itself... eventually, maybe.