gogmorgo

It’s always going to be suspect when a newer vehicle has title issues. I can see if it’s been sitting abandonned somewhere 20+ years and the seller just wants rid of it, but if the seller isn’t willing to do the legwork of any title issues on something they’re selling as running and driving? But it’s also pretty dumb that having titles in hand is relevant to a sale. Here there is no physical title. If you have a registration slip to confirm you’re buying from the registered owner, then good stuff, but all you need is a bill of sale. The seller is legally required to disclose the vehicle’s status in the provincial database, and if the vin isn’t in the provincial system you’ll have to get an out of province inspection done, which involves running through the databases to confirm it’s got a clear title, no liens, wasn’t stolen, etc., but all you need is a bill of sale or some other proof of ownership and it can be registered. Of course if it shows up as salvage from somewhere else that’s an issue.

Today’s generation doesn’t get instructions on how to adjust valves because 50 years ago owners proved they were incapable of following simple instructions without needing warnings not to drink the contents of the batteries. There was a demonstrable increase in IQ in people born after 1980 thanks to removing lead from gasoline. Just saying.

Definitely figure out what the process is for getting it registered in your state before even bothering trying to work out the logistics of collecting it. I don't know what you mean by "California Junk" but up here we've got "salvage" and "irreparable". Salvage can be put back on the road, but irreparable can't. Irreparable covers stuff like floods and fires, and some provinces will only let a vehicle be rebuilt once and if it's written off again then it becomes irreparable, even if it was just something minor the second time.

Not a hammer I guess, but I just ̶f̶i̶x̶e̶d̶ made my trailer lights functional in a uhaul parking lot when the only tool at my disposal was an axe.

This is the vacuum line. Just make sure it gets transferred over to the new valve. There is a risk of damaging the rubber boot, simply given the age, so try not to get too aggressive with it. The crimped connection is just a connection. You can replace the whole hose, and just push some heater hose over the barb on the new valve, secure it with a hose clamp. Given the age of the hoses in question, you may as well change them out if they’re still original. As far as wanting to replace the valve vs deleting it based on this thread, the issue the OP had was a blend door problem, not a heater valve delete problem. It is true that the air from the vents will be a couple degrees warmer without the heater valve, but for me it’s not significant enough to put up with the drawbacks of having the valve in the system. But individual preferences vary… in my climate there’s only a handful of days a year where I’m more concerned about the absolutely coldest possible a/c than I am about reliable heater performance. As a result I don’t really have a recommendation on a valve to go with.

If you're talking engine conversion, the '97+ system has a returnless fuel system, so the fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel sending unit. The later sending unit also drops in from the top of the fuel tank, not from the side like the early ones, so it's easier to swap out to a tank and sending unit that are compatible with the system than to adapt the later sending unit into the MJ's factory tank. If you're only swapping the front end for the later look, there's no need at all to swap fuel tanks. Only if you're also converting the interior and want the dash to work correctly.

Nah, the factory connection there is a bit jank. It's not at all uncommon for them to loosen or fall apart, whether by a passenger kicking it by mistake or what I don't think anyone's figured out, but it's a thing that happens.

This is what my parents did once we were old enough. They have a small camper tgey stayed in, and the kids slept in a tent. Honestly more fun for us like that. Probably for my parents too.

Even from the factory trailer wiring is sketchy AF. It's almost like it's an industry requirement. I've seen scotch locks and marrettes in wiring on boat trailers even, uninsulated splices that you know will be dunked in water, potentially even salt water. I was working on one of our trailers the other day that I initially thought was done well, with neatly done loom and heat shrink on every connection, but then I had to get into one of those splices to investigate and discovered the wires were just twisted together under the heat shrink. You see the same with aftermarket equipment installs, quick and easy so any monkey can do it with low turnaround time, and it only needs to last long enough you can charge the customer again to redo it.

Two, both mine. Living in the middle of nowhere does that to you. When I was living in the city it was probably once a month. There was one other in town when I moved here but the guy blew a head gasket and sold it to someone from out of town. I've seen a handful on every road trip I've done, particularly going through warmer parts of the continent.

Would you want your daughter dating someone who thinks the Aztek is cool?

Did you check for trouble codes? Could be present even though there's no CEL.

Alternatively you could run the horn contact ring and wiring out of the two-spoke steering wheel/column and hook up a monentary push button style switch on the steering wheel itself that grounds to the column via the steering wheel.

It’s not really any worse than anything else out there. A typical family hauler from the last handful of years that a current teen would learn in is pushing 300 hp, and the cars the higher hp 3800 iterations came in were mostly pretty heavy. It might have been quick for 2000, but in 2020, 250hp is not that impressive.

Well I ordered a bottle of liquid flux from one of our suppliers at work, supposedly it was no-clean but the label on the bottle says to flush with warm water. The extra step of rinsing it off and then drying it is a bit annoying, in that it’s extra steps. The flux does help with the “vintage” wires, but not as much as scraping the “vintage” off. But I figured I would share some stuff off one of our trailers that doesn’t get much use so I hadn’t seen it before. It’s actually pretty cool because trailer wiring is typically pretty jank but all the splices had heat shrink, and all the wiring was loomed nicely, with loom connectors even. And secured very nicely with riveted-on p-clips And I even discovered these cool things that are a step above just grommets for running wire through a panel, these little plastic tube deals so you’ve got somewhere to anchor the split loom with a zip-tie. But that was where the niceness ended. That anchor tube deal is on the brake backing plate, and after I spun it 180° so it wasn’t pushing the loom straight against the frame, and rubbing every time the suspension moved. I had to fix the wires there on three out of four brake assemblies because of that oversight. The loom had also been secured to the torsion axle… arm, in a few spots, but along the side of it where it got pushed against the frame again instead of on the brake backing plate that wouldn’t cause rubbing. The tight constrain of the p-clipping also meant all the flex in the wires for suspension movement happened in about an inch of wire rather than along the length of the run like you’d see with a leaf sprung trailer, and the damage from that was obvious as well, again on three out of four corners. And the jank in the nice-looking wiring didn't end there. All the marker lights were T’d off a single run of wire down each side of the trailer, four on each side. Each splice in heat shrink. A couple of the lights were flickering, and the wires were loose inside the splice, so I cut open the heat shrink tube in both spots. The single run of wire was unbroken the whole length, with the splices made by carefully removing the insulation in the middle of the wire, and wrapping the marker light pigtail around the exposed spot. Very neatly done, and the heat shrink slid down the wire in advance of that indicates some serious advanced planning there by whoever wired the trailer. But in both cases, whoever went to the trouble of sliding pieces of heat shrink tube down a 16’ run of wire, very neatly stripping the middle of the wire and looming everything nicely with connectors no less, hadn’t actually done anything more to splice the wires than twist them together and heat shrink the “friction fit”. No crimps, no solder, just twisted together. Make it make sense. Something else unrelated that’a a bit of a peave of mine, if you absolutely must wrap something in electrical tape (my recommendation usually is don’t), start at the inner bit that’s hard to get to, and work your way out, finishing somewhere easy to reach, instead of going the other way. This ensures that if you have to go back in, you can just start at the easy to get to spot on the outside and peel the electrical tape back off, instead of having to either fumble around to get it started in the hard to reach spot, or else risk damaging wires by cutting the electrical tape off when you can’t pull it out from under itself. Also, seam rippers work great for getting into tricky looms, much less risk to the wires than a knife of some kind. I don’t know that the one that comes in the Snap-on electrical pin tool kit is any different than something from a sewing store, either.

You’re positive those are front ZJ springs, yes? Only reason I’m asking is because my ZJ’s rear springs were straight like that but the fronts have the narrow coil up top. But yes, as long as they sit in the seat they’ll be fine.

It would help to know what your plans are for the tires. If you'll be doing 99% pavement and 1% gravel roads, there's probably nothing wrong with the tires you have now. If you plan on sinking it to the doorhandles in muskeg every weekend, you might be better off with something else, sure. My daily driver is on the Grabber AT/X, at least in the summer. They've got me everywhere I've wanted to go and are decent mannered enough on the road, although they're louder than my studded winters. Honestly they're probably more aggressive than I actually need, probably costing me mpg as well, but I like the look. I also prefer them over the KO2s that I had before. That said, there are tons of AT's out there that are more suited to life on paved roads that would easily do what I need them to offroad. Heck, one of my MJs is on an older set of winters that came on my ZJ, and they've done way better than expected at getting me into places without pavement despite 2wd and an open diff.

Reading off the thermostat housing when it's up to temp should give you more or less the opening temperature of the thermostat. I don't remember if it was mentioned or not, but if the temperature sensor isn't reading accurately it could think it's colder than it actually is, triggering all the same same issues as if it was actually cold. I don't really mess with the emissivity setting on my own IR thermometer, I just set it to whatever setting was appropriate for cast iron when I first got it and left it, but the manufacturer should have a table similar to this one: https://ennologic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Ultimate-Emissivity-Table.pdf. Also, your head should be cast iron, not aluminum, no? Tstat housing is cast aluminum. As to bare wires, sometimes the insulation simply falls off. It gets old, age cracked, whatever. The second biggest concern with exposed wires is corrosion, the first being shorting, but if they're all ground wires connected to ground, does it matter if it shorts? Still worth addressing though. Corroded wiring will have higher resistance, and therefore could screw with some sensor readings.

How much have you driven it/let it idle? I’ve noticed a few vehicles do this after draining and refilling the cooling system, but it usually settles down after 20 miles or so.

It's still pretty common on trucks in the current era. It's so when you add weight to the bed it doesn't point the nose into the sky. You just don't see single cab trucks that often, and the effect is much less drastic on the typical minivan-spec crewcab shortbed that isn't really built with the intention of hauling much weight that often... which is why all the slednecks out there are blinding you going down the highway because they've overloaded their trucks with two sleds on a deck and pointed their headlights up into your windsheild, and it didn't occur to them to aim their headlights down, they just added some cheap LEDs that only make the situation worse. It's your truck, do whatever you think makes it look best. Just make sure your headlights get aimed correctly when you're done adjusting the ride height.

Is that coffee by the gallon too?