gogmorgo

:offtopic: If you need starter fluid because it's a "cold morning", then you've got some other problem that needs addressed. I've never had this problem, starting cars completely cold at -30°F and lower, with or without block heaters. This includes my Lada, which runs about as well as things at the bottom of the ocean stay dry, my 310,000 mile MJ, and an old Chevy ten years AFTER a predominantly used-car dealer straight up handed my parents $2000 to avoid taking it on trade-in.

I believe it was around 2003 or so there was a major class action lawsuit that lead GM to finally correct the gasket problem. My parents' '04 Impala's 3.4 went almost 240,000 miles on the originals with no issues, although it's possible it was the exception. At any rate, I doubt there are too many of the original crappy oem gaskets floating around over ten years later. That engine was pretty solid. No work done to it whatsoever beyond oil changes. It didn't even leak oil. I don't doubt it would still be pounding down the miles in that car, but my sister wrote it off a couple years ago.

I'd be careful putting heat on a pan full of oil or residue... Seems like it could be a recipe for a bad time.

Something I've found with my Lada (and therefore may not even be relevant here) is that the transmission behaves much better if when I let it idle for a couple minutes to warm up, I leave the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral. It seems to get things moving around a bit better. Obviously if you've only got a 2wd (you didn't say) this won't help at all. Edit:: just saw your last comment. This makes it seem like you're running an oil that is a bit too thick.

As long as it's a RWD motor, it should bolt up. The FWD motors may have starters in a different location, and the intakes and exhaust point the opposite direction.

Generally speaking with products like this, it's recommend to put a layer of paint over the top. They aren't usually all that UV-resistant, or anything-resistant, really.

Just noticed that it has a tiny little Manitoba plate on it that says ELIMINATOR-RC. Cool (:

This is interesting. I like picking up these kinds of tidbits. I particularly like the "It works great but everyone's an idiot!" element to it. Everyone laughs at me when I pull out a paint marker to make sure I can put every piece back together in the exact same orientation, even sometimes going so far as to make sure that if I reuse bolts, they go back in the same hole they came from. Now I'm justified. :thumbsup:

:doh: Well now we know what's causing your issues... 100% ethylene glycol (EG) freezes at around 10°F. Given that you said it hit 0, this isn't enough for you. The other issue you have is that EG only has about half the heat capacity as water, so it won't properly cool your motor, or heat your interior. Adding water to EG (usually I think of this the other way around!) will lower the freezing point. The lowest freezing point you can get is around -60°F at a 70% EG mixture. The usual recommended mix is 50% EG, which freezes around -35°F. Now, where XYMJ, 91Pioneer, and I live, it sometimes drops below -40, so this isn't enough for us. For ease of measurement, I run approximately 66% EG (2:1 EG:H2O) but 60% is more than acceptable here. It's also not uncommon for people here to run 50/50 here anyhow... heated garages are reasonably common, and everyone has a block heater. Now, I don't know exactly where you live or what your climate is like, but given that Boston's absolute record low is -18°F, I'd say a 50% EG mix is more than enough for you. TL/DR; 50% antifreeze = good. 100% antifreeze = BAD. Don't do it!

Go through the Comanche Of The Month threads if you haven't already. I'm a big fan of Hornbrod's truck in particular.

There should be a tag on both the tcase and trans with the year on it.

Well, then you may be stuck using tags. If you can make [square brackets], then you're golden.

My '91 MJ has a CAD. The part-time light is turned on by a switch on the axle, not the tcase. Like I said before, there is a connector for the tcase, though... all the wiring from transmission and tcase connected to the harness at the rear passenger side of the motor.

Ah, yeah. That's cause you're using the mobile version of the site. If you scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page, it should have a "use full version" button, if you don't mind using the full version. My iPhone doesn't seem to have trouble with it. Alternatively, you can always manually enter the BBcode tags in the text box. Do a Google search for a complete listing, but this: [img]http://comancheclub.com/public/style_images/4_site_logo.gif[/img] results in this: Edit: ignore the colours in the code box. It interprets the :/ as a comment marker and changes the colour automatically. Also, the url between the tags is the one you obtain using the steps in the above linked articles.

Yes, the big obstacle in the 3.9 swap is going to be the FWD to RWD change. I'm thinking the starter swaps sides, plus you'll need to adjust intakes and things, cause they'll end up pointing through the Firewall. With the Fiero, that's not a problem because the mid-engine drivetrain is just a FWD setup that someone stuffed into the trunk.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/38265-how-to-make-your-posts-look-awesome-pics-links-videos-etc/ Both of these threads are pinned in the Testing forum.

New info! "NW Auto Recyclers. It's segregated in this fenced off area. Meaning it's either pre-sold, about to be up for sale as a whole, or potentially parted out. My money is that it's reserved."

A member of another online community I frequent posted some pics from a junkyard run, and this was one of them. It's in Machias, WA, but he didn't say what yard. Someone go rescue it.

There's a chance pushing against ice (with the belt burning against the pulley) bent the impeller blades, yeah. You could always pull it off and check it out while your coolant is drained when you're swapping hoses. Bear in mind you may not be able to reuse the water pump gasket if you do pull the pump off.

What's wrong with 15mm? 15mm is a nice size. While you're at HF, pick yourself up a full metric set, and also some torx bits. There are torx bolts everywhere. The 4.0 is definitely enough to get someone in trouble... but then again, so is the 85hp 1.7L in my Lada. It's more a matter of how you drive. If anything, the lack of power in the Lada makes me a more dangerous driver because I get impatient, and really pissed off at people who cut me off, or who stop in merge lanes.

The lines to the firewall are your heater hoses. :thumbsup: If you're replacing three known bad hoses, it just makes sense to replace the last one. You don't know how long it'll last, and it saves dumping all your coolant again. If the radiator itself is leaking, you should probably replace it as well. You should be able to get a new one for under $100, and (at least on my '91 4.0) the replacement went so smoothly I still have a nagging suspicion I did something wrong, because it just seemed way too easy... It's one of the few jobs I did on my MJ where it didn't seem like it was fighting me.

Try google? It's a very popular forum software, and there's lots of stuff out there. I mostly remember them from 15 years ago when all you got to post with was a text box.

You have a leak somewhere, and a petty big one at that. The ice came from somewhere. It's why you overheated. If you don't mix the water and antifreeze before you put it in, it won't mix in the engine until it's been running for a while, and it'll freeze.

The above sounds like a case of bad battery cables/connections. If the clamps are a little loose or corroded, you can have issues. I had similar issues on my '91. I replaced the very bad clamps, and no more problems.

It works the other way too. Your summer heat is hell for me. Given the option, I'll take the temperature extreme where you can keep adding layers to stay warm... There's only so many you can remove, and it still doesn't prevent cooking in your own juices!