gogmorgo

On a mostly stock motor, you won't see much benefit to running high-performance plugs, and they tend to wear out more quickly with less tolerance for re-gapping. I'm also a fan of the NGK coppers, but have used the basic Champions with good results, too.

How do you mean? http://www.comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ This is how to post pictures. The same process applies to your signature as well.

^This. The switch is a common weak point in the headlight wiring. The connector tends to get hot, melt, and sometimes catches fire. If the switch is your problem, or even if it isn't, look into doing the headlight relay harness upgrade as well.

Look up fsae ice racing. My team made Hoon of the Day on Jalopnik a couple years ago. Huskie Motorsports, University of Saskatchewan.

My 235/75/15s do rub a small amount on the lower control arms, but not enough to be a major concern. It only happens at low speed when I've got the steering wheel cranked all the way in one direction. It should be fairly simple to adjust the steering stops to prevent this.

Are you looking for a scan tool for your MJ? If it's a 1991 or newer, it'll be OBD1, and you won't need one. For 1990 and older (i,e, Renix) there is a scan tool, but good luck finding one in working order for less than you paid for the MJ.

Plug the lines and permanently lock that CAD. http://www.comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/#

If it's a manual, you should be good, but if it's an auto, the trans may not be getting proper fluid circulation with the engine off, and you could cook it. For a short distance you'd be fine, but I wouldn't chance 150 miles. Edit: guess I can't read...

Like the bit that attaches to the diff? It's a load-sensing brake proportioning valve. It increases rear brake bias with suspension squat.

The gas sloshing around in the tank could change the level the sending unit picks up. Baffles prevent slosh, but only so much. I always found my gauge wandered around a lot with inclines and accel/decel, but it would also do so while cruising at constant speed on reasonably level terrain. I'd chock it up mostly to 23+ year old wiring. Could also be related to the voltmeter fluctuations that were discussed recently, if it's a dash/gauge thing instead of a sending until thing.

Same story for our East Coast as well: In some ways I'm a little disappointed I'm missing out... but then again my screws aren't loose — I sheared them clean off.

I would put it after the filter, as extra protection so it doesn't get clogged up. However, some filters have check valves in them. In this case there'd be an inlet and outlet marked on it.

General Grabber AT/2's... Like I've said in the last few threads you made about tires.

The injectors are in the intake, not the head. If you're compressing air into the intake, you've got bigger problems than leaking injectors. Bad intake valves/seals, as suggested... Or else you're turning the engine backwards...

Ooooh, pretty... (at least on my phone)

The fuel in the rail is under pressure, yes. Is it being compressed? Not really, but that's just semantics. If your injector o-rings are leaking enough to cause running problems, there would be a noticeable fuel leak. X2 on Cruiser's Renix Tips.

Look at the wires going to it. 14 AWG, if memory serves. Depending on your data's source, your max current will be 30 amps or so. If you're ever in doubt of an electrical component, just run a relay. It's really not worth setting your truck on fire.

Instead of a tach, my FSAE team used a series of coloured LED's that came on at specific RPM intervals. Initially it was supposed to just be an "almost. almost NOW!" sort of shift light, but then we had the idea to extend it downwards. Far less weight than a gauge, and far less work than a digital display. In regular, day-to-day commuting, I can see a shift light not really being that big a deal, but when you need some kind of consistency, like the precision required on a race track, or even just regularly having multiple drivers, the shift light is better than "playing it by ear" and much more noticeable than a gauge. Of course it should be coming on at a reasonable rpm... many of the OEM shift lights I've seen are either set for "maximum fuel economy" or "shift right the @#$% now or you'll asplode your engine". As far as wiring it up, though, I doubt I could contribute anything useful. Our aftermarket ECU had the functionality, so we just used that.

A winch will be like a starter draw on a battery. If the cca's aren't high enough, the battery won't be able to put out enough current for the motor's maximum pull. You'd get away with it at a cost of reduced pulling power and battery life expectancy.

My Dad talks about a guy who told Swedish jokes all the time, but then married a Swedish lady who didn't take too kindly to it. So to avoid offending anyone, he chose to tell jokes about an extinct race. So there were there two Hittites, Sven and Ole...

I suppose the Renix system differently than the HO does, but it's my understanding the NSS will only produce a no-crank, not a no-start. Before I cleaned up my '91's NSS, even if it wouldn't crank, it would always start when I jumped the solenoid. That said, cleaning up the NSS is always a good idea. The inside of mine looked (and almost smelled) like how I imagine the bottom of a sewage settling pond might look. If you do take it apart, pack it good with dielectric grease and run a bead of RTV or silicone around the edge to keep crap out.

I like the sounds of this build! :popcorn: There's a couple threads pinned in the "testing" forum relevant to posting pictures. I'll edit this post with a link when I get home tonight if you haven't found them yet.

If the rubber looks bad, it's probably bad. Often you'll be able to watch the pulley wobbling back and forth. When mine went, the rubber didn't look too bad, but the pulley was obviously separating. The wobble was bad enough it was alternately pushing the belt against the timing cover, to the point where the belt had cut itself almost an 1/8" groove in the cover. Needless to say it was chirping pretty good. Replacing it wasn't that big a chore, borrowing a harmonic balancer puller/installer kit from Autozone or whatever parts store you prefer will make it a cake walk. The hardest part is getting the belt back on.

There's a couple threads pinned in the "testing" forum that are relevant to posting pics. I'll edit this post with a link when I get home tonight if you haven't found them yet. Edit:: Here are the links: Pictures Other awesome things you can do when you post.

Good to hear your brakes worked out. They're, like, important. For safety and things. I still have yet to tackle drums myself, mine so far have been "adequate" so I haven't wanted to mess with them in case I mess them up, but it's going to have to happen sooner or later. I work at a parts store chain up here. It's the same crap, and it's just as rough for us. The computer pops up the question and we're required to ask. It's part of the warranty process for parts. If we can't tell the manufacturer that the part was used for the proper application and it comes back defective, the store will end up eating the cost of the replacement, often including labour rates. An improper return on a defective $30 bearing or something could end up costing the store several hundred dollars. If we don't ask what the computer tells us, even if we know it doesn't matter, we'll get in $#!&. Customers hate it, we hate, but it's crap that the big-wigs at the corporate HQ 1000 miles away make us do. I doubt our store would function quite as well without the corporate process we're stuck using (the guys in charge locally are, um... well I won't go there), but it sure can be a meat grinder at times.