gogmorgo

If the image host updated their image storage system (facebook is notorious for this) then they could very well be unviewable. It's also possible if they're older images that don't get accessed, the host could have deleted them. Recently I've found that Photobucket photos aren't showing up for me in the Opera browser. Even if I navigate to the image's URL I get nothing. They're visible if I use another browser, but for some reason Opera just doesn't like them. And it's not just on my computer, the same goes for my Opera iPhone app as well as the Java version of the Opera Mini app on my Sonim. Haven't figured out what it is yet, but it's pretty friggen annoying, especially since most of the people on CC use Photobucket.

Well, it certainly does pop... The flares themselves look pretty good. How sturdy are they?

The factory horns are more or less behind the front bumper, and below the headlights. Some trucks came with a horn on both sides, some with only one, but no guarantees which side it's on. They're most easily accessed from below, although you may need to pull back some of the rubber splash guard. The horns look like snail shells. There's one wire attached to the horn with a spade terminal. It should be getting 12V when the horn button is pressed. Unhook it and confirm this with a test light or voltmeter. If the circuit checks out, make sure the horn's mounting bolt is clean, as Hornbrod suggests. If it's clean and the horn still doesn't work, replace the horn. You can replace it with just about any horn from just about any car. Most horns are like, five bucks at a junkyard. Luxury car horns tend to be loudest. If you find a horn with two wires instead of one, it means it won't ground through the mount, so you'll need to run a small ground wire to make it work... not a big problem. You could also pick up a cheapie universal horn at just about any parts store, but they'll cost a lot more than $5 and generally sound like crap and aren't all that loud.

What motor are you guys running? Sounds like a thumper, but it's hard to tell in an echoey room like that. When's competition for you guys? Michigan is, like, now, (I think) so does that mean you're headed to Lincoln? If so, keep an eye out for the University of Saskatchewan car. I took a year off school so I won't be with them this year, though. None of our actual cars ever made it into or behind my MJ, but I was the one responsible for hauling around our simulator car... Basically just a seat and stereo in an empty rolling chassis that had a laptop steering wheel and pedal set hooked up to the Live For Speed game. I had the truck with the longest bed is how that happened.

Command-trac is the standard 4x4 with only part-time 4HI. Select-trac has a full-time (i.e. AWD) 4HI option as well as the part-time 4HI. I understand select-trac was pretty rare in the MJ, but much more common in the XJ.

A t-case drop not paired with a change in pinion angle will cause vibration, although it could be compensating for a change because of the lift. I'd look for lug nuts, tire rub (on control arms), and steering u-joints. Also the frame-end track bar mount.

It's the warning lamp fitted to bring to attention an airplane attempting to use the road you're on for an emergency landing. Follow the direction and look up next time you see it. If it's going off when no aircraft are present, replace it. Keep in mind a tall building or large tree in full leaf can trigger a false alarm. Why no other vehicles were fitted with this very helpful safety feature is a mystery to me. Or, you know, what the other guy said...

My 237/75/15's rub my lower control arms, but only slightly. I attribute it to the largish side lugs. My thoughts on tire shops differing from the factory options are that it's down to availability. Very few tire manufacturers are making off-roadable tires in those sizes. I just went through this finding tires for my Lada. The smallest a/t my tire guy could find semi-locally was the Grabber AT2 in a 205/75/15. It's a coincidence it happens to be the same tire I have on my MJ. But I'm pretty sure those still came from out-of-province. The next best he could do were 215/75's, which are definitely too big for my stock Lada, which shipped with 195/75's. The 205's clear most of the slush buildup on my inner fenders as it is. On the other hand, 235/75/15 seems to be one of the most common sizes, as just about every major tire is available in that size. It makes far more sense to spec a tire that will fit with just about every possible option than to limit yourself and risk losing the sale to the next guy who isn't quite so pedantic.

It's unlikely, but plausible given the recent install... Check to make sure the bellhousing bolts are tight. I had mine come out a while back, which caused similar symptoms to a bad fuel pump.

It's a '96 Lada Niva. Designed by drunk Soviets in the '70's, assembled by drunk Russians. It features some heavily "borrowed" Fiat design elements, and was intended for duty on the roads of Siberia. It's also a case study in bare-bones 4x4's... It didn't even come with a radio.

There was a guy on here a while back talking about a guy who did new vinyl for some of the original decals. Might have had an eBay store, maybe? I'd do a little more digging for you if I wasn't on my phone in the middle of a road trip.

Well, looks like I'm back in 'Toba again for the summer. Moved all my stuff back home in the Lada, made me really wish I had a truck I could use... But I fired up the MJ for old times sake, albeit with a jump from the Niva because I forgot to take the battery inside before I left, but I'll be damned if it didn't fire up as if it was just running, even after sitting there all winter. I've got to fit in a trip to Ottawa and back to move my brother home (no big deal, just 3000 miles) but hopefully I'll be bringing an XJ donor back with me, got my eye on a couple in Winnipeg, and can get started in on this in the next two weeks before my summer job starts.

Is it a girdle or a corset?

I have yet to see one in person, but I kinda like it... Bear in mind, though, this is my daily driver:

The cat isn't critical to the way the truck runs, no. The power/comfort switch remaps shift points. It holds gears a little longer and kicks down sooner in "power". Sorry I can't help with the vacuum lines. Take a pic and someone will know where they go.

JP mag just announced that Revolution Gear & Axle has released 5.13's for the Dana 30 and 35. But I'll agree with everyone else that you should sort out your engine first... A good used motor will cost you less than a regear.

Ah, thanks for the correction, Cruiser. I had 80,000 in my head, but couldn't remember if it was miles or km.

The reason 87MJTIM said you'll need the Renix flywheel is because the crank position sensor reads off it. So you'll need the one that goes with the CPS you're running. If you've done an obd2 swap, you'll need an obd2 flywheel.

Power steering pump/gearbox? They're both on the front driver's side, and would be affected by steering input.

It's only there to turn on a light every 50,000 miles or so, which reminds you to check your O2 sensor. You don't need it, but it may not be easy to find another one if some day you decide to restore the truck to show-quality factory spec.

This. The best way to improve braking performance is really to increase braking pressure, by way of booster or master cylinder. Larger discs will help with managing heat and wear, but only a slight performance advantage from the longer lever arm.

I expect it's better than nothing, but all the ones I've seen in yards have been bashed in pretty good. They look like they'll keep branches and stuff out of the engine bay, but you'll probably want something with more beef for rock crawling.

I once had a pair of boot laces with a kevlar core. They didn't break, but eventally the polyester(?) sheath over them wore through and the bare kevlar didn't much care for holding knots, so I went back to cheaper "normal" laces.

Get me a good porter and I'll be happy. Anyone try Old Engine Oil? It's a Scottish beer. Very dark, lots of flavour.

The only reason to hang onto the EGR is that it's mostly illegal to remove emissions equipment. Oh, and I guess the reduction in emissions. If you're suggesting deleting it, I suspect no one in your area cares much either way.