gogmorgo

Considering its supposedly good for both Renix and HO's, imma call :bs: But hey, it won't void your factory warranty :teehee:

I suspect (but don't have enough evidence to confirm) that the only difference between the '93+ and the earlier exhaust is that the early one has a bolted flange connection to the cat and the later one is just a pipe connection. At least that was the case for my '93 XJ, my '93 XJ replacement pipe currently installed on my '91 MJ, in contrast to my '91 MJ's original pipe. Pics from RockAuto: '93 XJ '92 XJ: The manifold itself is the same from '91 to '97(+?), which is why I'm pretty sure that flange is the only difference. The early pipe's support also bolts to the flange instead of being welded on, but that's not a huge deal, it still ends up in the same spot. I drool over the Borla header. It's just waaaay out of my price range.

No such thing as an image too large. If your image host rejects it, find a better one. When you're posting a pic, you aren't uploading it to this site. You're linking it in from somewhere else on the internet.

The door is longer. I don't see anything making up for shorter glass, so the glass is definitely longer too. That doesn't mean they don't share regulators of course, but I imagine the 4-door's lighter glass would cause tension problems when used with the heavier 2-door glass's spring, and the 4-door's regulator would strain under the 2-door glass' extra weight.

I've been running the H6054xv's on my MJ for three years or so. They were sold as "oem replacements", nothing fancy, and they were priced ~CAD12.99/per. The difference over the factory lights was negligible, just what one would expect going from old cracked sealed beams to new. What really woke them up was doing the relay harness upgrade and aiming them correctly.

I'm not 100% certain on this, but don't you need the windows, regulator, etc. from a 4-door and only the switches and wiring from a 2-door? The MJ doors are the same as 4-door XJ doors.

Stock wiring is a no. Different pinouts on everything even if the plugs are the same. As for HP gain? Probably not much noticeable on the butt-dyno. Maybe 10hp, if that.

Is a six-year-old post...

The regular 3.8 has been swapped in. http://comancheclub.com/topic/3362-mj-3800-camaro-powered/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/10842-3800-series-two/ Everything else would just be plumbing and electronics, no?

Probably not the best way to get help. Start a new thread describing the issue, and go from there. Also, throwing out your phone number on a completely public forum? Not the greatest of ideas, either.

One member from Europe used Dakota taillights, I don't think they took too much work. But they definitely looked out of place, although maybe not so much to someone who didn't know what they were looking at. But I also recommend the MJ taillights. They aren't as difficult to find as you'd think. Several members here have quite the collection of them and there's a slim chance some may be willing to part with a set.

Which flowmaster is it?

I assumed that to be the case, but if anything the slightly narrower key turns ever so slightly more smoothly than the other one. Maybe it's a combination of wear and irregular cutting. Or maybe the narrow key isn't narrow, but the other one is fat, which is why it won't pull out of a slightly worn cylinder? Really I don't care all that much, so long as I can still turn the key!

4-bangers aren't typically very well balanced so the extra weight contributes to smoothness. The Wankel is a completely different animal, but not a very torquey motor, needs the pants revved off it to make power. They also sell light-weight flywheels for racing applications, because less rotating mass makes for better acceleration. I haven't been around that long, so I won't profess to know everything. We can speculate all we want, but we'll have to wait till you've got it done to find out. I'm curious either way... either I'll have confirmed my hypothesis, or I'll learn something new. Just have to wait and see.

It should be roughly 3 o'clock with no load on. You can fine-tune it a bit depending on where you like your brake bias. Up is more rear brakes, down is less.

For warm fuzzies when you hit the go-go pedal, I don't expect you'll notice a significant difference between the two. But I think it'll be opposite of what you expect, the lighter crank would give better acceleration with less mass to get moving.

The one on the left has much less mass meaning it'll rev more happily and be better suited for high-revving, high-hp applications. The one on the right has much more mass and will make for a better low-end-torquey workhorse engine.

You're over-thinking this. With that drivetrain combination, you've got rear end ratio of 3.07. That's the highest ratio available from the factory. Easiest thing to do would be to find a rear axle with lower gears. 3.55 is common, but if you're planning on going to taller tires you might want to go even deeper, maybe a 4.10 to go with 33's. The factory tow package was the receiver hitch, automatic trans (came with 3.55's) and a Dana 44 rear axle. It was good for 5000lbs. Your rear axle is a Dana 35, which is notoriously weak. I wouldn't bother regearing it. Best to try to find another rear axle with the ratio you want. Finding the heavy duty MJ axles isn't going to be easy, and you'll pay through the nose for them if the seller thinks he knows what he had. XJ axles will be the correct width and will reuse your driveshaft's ujoint, but you'll need to weld on new perches... Likely not an issue for you. Common swaps are of course the heavy-duty XJ/MJ axles, the Dana44 and AMC20, also the later Chrysler 8.25. Ford 8.8's are also common, although they're a touch narrower. You won't need to touch your 2wd front beam axle unless you're swapping in 4x4. The spline count on the axle shafts has nothing to do with your driveshaft. That only matters for matching up the internal components of the diff. My advise would be to figure out what you want the end product to be, locate all the parts you'll need, and then put them all in at the same time, otherwise you'll find yourself pulling everything apart over and over. Another thing you can do, especially in the planning stage, is to take a look through the project threads on here to get ideas, see what other people are doing and how it works out for them.

If they're the same as the pre-97 ones I may have a set, but my parts XJ is still under a bunch of snow... Edit: Actually never mind. Looks like they're different and already gone.

So maybe you can answer this as well: I have two double-sided keys (generic cut blanks, not the originals) that came with my '91 MJ. They both turn the ignition just fine. But one of them I can pull out of the tumbler after I've turned it on, but the other one won't come out. The only difference I can find between the two is that the one that comes out is cut ever so slightly narrower than the other. Any guesses as to why? Also, for getting the lock plate circlip out, get yourself one of these: Steering lock plate removal tool. You should be able to find one at any parts store, fairly cheap too. It presses down against the lock plate, compressing the spring and making it much easier to get that circlip out. Also makes it easier to get the clip back on.

If it causes air to leak past the butterfly, then it might cause some high-idle issues. If that's not the case and it's not catching the butterfly, then it should be fine. I suppose it might also slow down the air a bit at WOT, but unless you're looking for every hundredth of a second on a racetrack, it's not going to be a big deal.

The '97+ front clip is a common swap. Header panel, bumper, fenders. Take a peak through the DIY section, you should find a couple write-ups. But the taillights won't fit without modifications. The only bolt-in taillights are MJ taillights.

Also check your lugnuts... may seem obvious but I managed to loose a bunch this summer which I figured would've been way below my ability to not notice (still convinced someone stole them). It produced popping sounds when the wheel was banging around loose. As for the exhaust, it could also be bouncing around a bit, in addition to the not-uncommon backfiring coming off throttle thing. And in my own defense, that was your first post. Don't know anything about you. And I apologize if I offended you... But we do get a few noobs whose first post is a panicked freak out that their muffler bearings are burnt out when all they need is some blinker fluid topped up.

Real men don't need more than the manifold. Kidding aside, the factory piping is only 2.25". Going up to 2.5" will noticeably shift your power band higher up the rev range, increasing higher-rpm power but at the cost of low-rpm torque. I'll have to see if I've got a recording of it with the current setup... now that I actually have one. Maybe if I don't I"ll make one. But right now I'm running a flowmaster 40, can't remember if it was the Super or Original. I got it with offset inlet and centre outlet, but I think if I was doing it again I'd want a centre inlet and offset outlet. Walker downpipe for a '93 XJ because the '91 pipe has a bolted connection to the cat, then a test pipe (couldn't afford a cat at the time) muffler, and then about 18" more straight pipe and a turndown just ahead of the axle. As far as performance goes, there's a noticeable increase down low over the open manifold, but vs stock it's hard to say as it was sitting 16 months with an nfg motor between the factory exhaust and the new setup. I'll have to do some digging to find parts numbers.

That's also where your tailpipe exits... But it won't hurt to check the driveshaft u-joints, jack up the rear end and make sure there's no play in the rear wheel bearings.