gogmorgo

Don't think I saw that one for sale. Where was it? Looks to be in better shape than mine, body rust-wise for sure. I've got the body-colour header-panel, headlight bezels, etc out of my parts XJ still sitting in my basement. I was debating putting them on my MJ after a quick re-spray but if they'll serve you better... Don't have a close-up of them, not sure if the colour quite matches, either.

Couldn't tell you what gauge it is off the top of my head so you'd have to check. I personally wouldn't use anything less than 14awg for the lights (maybe even 12 for the fuel pump) but knowing AMC it could be 16 or 18. You should be okay putting in whatever's already there. I've got 25 years and 500,000km on my factory wiring.

Gasoline isn't the best of conductors. If there's a short, it's probably caused by something else... like the gas dissolving the adhesive and/or the electrical tape itself and the wires just shorting against themselves. I'd be willing to bet if you pulled the tape off you'll see some very corroded exposed wires.

Got any sources for any of that? GM wouldn't have brought back the Colorado/Canyon if there was no market. The Taco is still in production. The Titan may look a bit like an F150 but I have yet to see anything claiming they share components.

Check the connector for the tail light harness. Should be on the driver's side frame rail just behind the rear axle. Also, if a trailer wire harness has been added, it's good to check that as well. You should be able to check the brake light switch before just replacing it and hoping it works. See if it had power to it and if jumping power to the wire going to the brake lights does anything. You're pretty much playing a game of "where does the power stop?". If the bulbs are good (which bulbs are they) then you should work your way up until you find the power.

That's not a hatchback. It's a fastback. Just being nitpicky.

How do you mean they were cut off? The shocks don't mount to the axle itself, they've got a stud on the spring plate, which you should be able to reuse from your current MJ. By spring plate, I'm referring to the retainer plate that goes under the spring, that the u-bolts are bolted to.

The AW4 uses the neutral safety switch to trigger the reverse lights. It probably just needs cleaned out. If you've been having the odd no-crank this is also likely the culprit for that as well. There are a few good write-ups out there, google's your friend. There's a great one on bc4x4 I think it is.

Don't think so. I've only seen pictures of it so far, and it doesn't have the tailgate badging. But i haven't seen under the hood or even discussed his plans for it yet either.

It may be coming down your way, kinda, in august. A buddy and I just committed (to each other) to take it and his '74 Mazda truck down to the 24hrs of LeMons Rallye.

... I post almost exclusively with my phone. Just sayin'.

Thinking about it some more it wouldn't be easy. Because the ground is shared with the low beam internally to the "bulb". Obviously was not at my brightest when I wrote that. Pun totally intended. Upgrading the harness may work. Try running jumpers straight from the battery to see if the bulbs even come on. Are you sure they have a low/high setting?

4-banger with dual exhaust? Lol. $18k and can't even get a proper MJ cap on it? Ha, no.

Upgrade the harness and see what happens. Led's, especially cheap ones, can be sensitive to low voltages. Something else that may be worth trying is reversing polarity to the high beams.

Small bump. Also going out towards Banff this weekend. Not sure if will have room to bring an axle back with me or not, but figured it's worth a shot.

Pics?

:thumbsup:

Heh, wrote the post and got side-tracked before I hit post. Oops?

What's it out of? There was an MJ d44, fairly rare but not quite a unicorn, which will bolt right in. The XJ d44 is identical except for the spring perches, which will need moved, XJ is soa, MJ is sua, and the perches are spaced differently... same as with any XJ axle swap really. Most other d44's will have a different width or lug pattern, but can be made to work. I just picked up an 8.25 out of an '03 4-banger KJ. 4.10 gears, disc brakes, similar width to the XJ/MJ axles. It'll be a bit more to cut off before welding on perches, but not that big a deal.

Heh, a youngin. I swapped a '93 motor into my '91 back in august. 243k on the "new" motor, still less than half what the first one had. :D You know it's a Vancouver truck when they rebuilt the turdy-five... Don't mind me, I'm just a 'Toba hick who likes making fun of city folk. Last time I was in Vancouver was three months ago. Too warm, had to leave early. Looks like it's in pretty good shape. The Syclone's cool too. Don't see many out this way, and the few that are are pretty well done.

If you're searching with car-part.com, they split up the axles between 86-87, 88-89, and 90-92. The axles are interchangeable but there may have been minor production changes. There's a chance you find something nearby.

Keep in mind that a weight-distributing hitch is only transferring weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle. This means you can safely run a higher tongue (or gross) weight, but it doesn't mean you shouldn't still abide by safe tongue-weight ratios. 10-15% of gross trailer weight should be ideal. You can get away with lower percentages to increase gross weight capacity, but you'll be limiting your top speed. Down towards 5% you're looking at 55 mph tops or you will run into sway. Any less will be a pretty bad time, with or without weight distribution.

SOA will lift at least the height of the pack. Using a much flatter spring than factory, the lowest so far I've seen SOA lift was 4.5". With a stock spring, you're looking at 5-6" lift. 31's will fit at factory height, and will look ridiculous with 6" lift if that's what you end up with.

Said no one, ever.

The tcase drop will make the problem worse unless you change the pinion angle to match. The pinion shaft and tcase output shaft should be parallel.