gogmorgo

The theory of heat wrap is you want to wrap hot things to prevent them from radiating heat, and you want to wrap the "cold" things so they reflect radiated heat. So basically you'd want to use exhaust wrap (generally a woven fibreglass cloth) on the exhaust and then some kind of foil on the other bits. I'll add that the factory cooling system in good condition should be enough, emphasis on "good condition". Admittedly my '91 MJ has the later, open cooling system, but the only times its overheated were with major leaks (blown hoses) and low coolant levels. Even running coolant mixed for -60F, (2:1 antifreeze to water), the only time I've had a heat problem was on the 6000' climb out of Death Valley a couple weeks ago behind a slow-moving vehicle at an ambient temperature approaching 120F. Once out from behind, I didn't even need to shut off the a/c.

Do you have an HO in there then? The two systems are not compatible. If the engine management is original to the truck, you'll need a flywheel and CPS for an '87. If you've got the computer and wiring and everything from a '95 in there, you need a '95 CPS and flywheel.

You got trailer wiring? How janky is it? Do you have power at the taillight harness connector? How's the ground behind the driver's side taillight?

The flywheel and CPS need to match whatever engine management system you're running. If you're running Renix, you need the Renix CPS and flywheel. If you've got everything from a '95 in there, you'll need the flywheel and CPS for a '95.

Did you end up changing the flywheel?

So how does it trigger itself?

Watch out for any signs of a concussion and take it easy on yourself for a couple weeks. My neighbour walked away from rolling his car on a straight section of road this summer, also just with a few stitches. Not looking forward to the next person I know who flips one. Glad to hear you're alright, though!

I would also hold little faith in any wiring done by someone who would use marettes,,, If removing that disaster doesn't fix it, there are also other points in the harness that could be going bad. I had some cracked insulation (simply from being old) at the sockets.

I personally would not trust springs that were heated until they sagged. Sure it's been done successfully many times, but if you get them too hot in one spot you create a nice brittle point that will probably snap at the least opportune moment.

Everything from the doors forward is identical to a similarly equipped four-door XJ. The MJ is more likely to have a column shift (insert something intelligent about bench seats), but otherwise yes, the MJ columns are identical to a same-year, similarly-equipped XJ column. And yes, you'll find it's pretty well the same as the one in your Camaro, too. Most Saginaw columns are that way. I'm pretty sure our resident most interesting man in the world has a column from a '70s Cadillac in an MJ.

It should, although they might not want to take it back considering I've done 6000 miles on it already, but I guess I don't need to tell them that, after all it's only been a few weeks... I'll pay them a visit in the next couple days, see what they say. Canadian tire is usually pretty good about taking things back, no questions asked, just depends on which sacrificial kid is behind the counter.

If the 4-cyl is 4x4, it'll have 4.10 gears, meaning you'll want to keep the axles in there. The D35 will still hold up to street use behind a 4.0 unless you seriously abuse it, mine has over 300,000 miles on it. The 2001 xj's also will have a low-pinion d30 in the front instead of the earlier high-pinion. One other thing that you may discover is that the later head castings don't always hold up so well, so that's something to look into. As a result not everyone will advise swapping in an '01 4.0, but it's been done without issue many times. I say go for it. :dunno:

Just the pump. Everything in there looked pretty minty, although when I get back in there I'm going to replace the rubber line, forgot about it this time until I had it apart on the side of the road. I had 12V at the connector (ballast bypassed) and great continuity on the ground wire (pretty well 0 resistance although I couldn't figure out where it grounds in an HO. I know it's not behind the taillight, cause it ran fine with no taillight harness at all. The tail lights even worked without that ground hooked up when I plugged in the new harness, although they were super dim. The main reason I'm wondering about the ground is because my gauge has started acting funky, going to empty and triggering the low-fuel light after 60-100 miles. I couldn't find anything visually wrong with the sender when I had it out, like I said everything looked mint in there. I blame in on winter-blend (no water-absorbing/ice-causing ethanol!) fuel for over half the year.

Thanks! Doesn't really seem to correspond to anything I've found so far, but I guess we'll find out in a bit.

Because other expenses are prioritized over something that mostly works for now. Being a federal employee has sucked this year...

Well to follow up on this, I think I've identified the problem. Still not sure how the code 53 fits in, but the other day on the way to work the truck was not doing great, every time I pushed the gas I had to back right out again or it would stall. Then when I was going home, it wouldn't start at all. It tried, coughed a couple times, nearly caught a couple times, but no go. I brought the '93's ecu, plugged it in, no go. Switched the '91 ecu back in, still no good. Unplugged half the sensors with the key on, plugged them back in, still no go. Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge, and no pressure at all, but the fuel pump was definitely kicking on. I got a little suspicious because I knew I was running a little low on gas, so I put in around 5L, just over a gallon. It fired right up. I then drove it to the gas station (stumbling the whole way) and filled it with another 70L. It runs perfectly with a full tank of gas. 75L is about 20L short of what the tank will take, and I've definitely run it lower than that in the past. So the janky-@$$ hose-clamping because of the stupid adapters that don't work that come with the Delphi pump that I put in on the side of the road are probably to blame, and I was correct when I assumed that not all the fuel going through the pump is also going through the sock from the bottom of the tank below the slosh pan. Some of it is getting around the top of the adapter, about two inches above the bottom of the tank, and above the slosh pan. This means that when I get down to around a third of a tank or so, if all the gas sloshes (say during acceleration when it had stumbling problems), the pump is also/mostly sucking air. So the solution is going to be keeping it above a half-tank until I can track down a better adapter. Seriously though, the one that came with the Delphi doesn't fit onto the pump in the only place it makes sense to put it, and the sock won't go into the end of it, so pretty much right now the pump is hose-clamped into the adapter to keep it sealed, except obviously it doesn't work that way... Next time I'm getting the Bosch pump.

I'll look real hard for it when I get down there again. Any chance either of you would be able to find a size on the door somewhere in case I can't find it or the serial number? The three results that came up this time when I searched for Jeep (instead of just Comanche) have these as the "call size": 55 1/8 17 1/16 15 54 1/8 25 7/16 17.5 The two that came up in the search for Comanche were both the first one, the second one mentions it fits a whole bunch of late-eighties trucks and then just says "Jeep" at the bottom of the list, so :dunno: If I had to hazard a guess I'd say that's probably going to be the length at the bottom of the frame, length of the side (vertical-ish) frame, and the height of the frame, but I really have no idea. The search also pulled up both hard and soft tonneau covers for both long and short bed Comanches, if anyone's interested. They cost a lot less than a replacement cap door...

:dunno: I'm 6'2" and 220, and the only time I've found the cab cramped in four years was when I drove it 6500 miles (Vegas and back via the Pacific Coast) in 12 days not quite a month ago. Or if I've tried sleeping inside it, that never goes well. Otherwise I find the seating position to be just about ideal.

The lever itself can be replaced pretty easily, especially if you don't have cruise control. Just give it a sold tug and it'll pop out. The actual action of the lever is in the switch though, so unless the lever is flexible and/or falling apart, just replacing it won't do anything for issues with the switch. The switch is part of the multi-function switch, which requires partial disassembly of the steering column to replace. If you do go after the switch, do yourself a favour and get a lock-plate tool. The good news is that the GM Saginaw column in the MJ went into pretty well everything for a good twenty five years or so, so parts and write-ups are available everywhere.

Why do you say it's falling out? Two possible causes, either backed out bolts or its cracked. Either way it's probably best to have a new one on-hand during the swap so you don't have to run around and find one half-way through.

I picked up a 1TB drive about five years ago for ~$130. A couple months ago after that one failed (after being completely full for the last six months or so) I got a 2TB for ~$120. After cleaning out all the useless junk I've been dragging around for 5+ years I've discovered that I didn't actually need the extra TB. Ah well.

That creature is Halle Berry.

There's a chance I suppose. CustomPickups claims there's a size on it somewhere, whether on the door itself or potentially on a label on the cap somewhere. Got a response from the Leer dealer today: I don't think they tried very hard... I'll give them a call when I get the serial number off it.

Where does the other end of the hose go?

Neutral safety switch. Only applies to automatic-equipped models. It tells the trans computer which gear you've selected, and prevents starting in any gear other than park or neutral.