gogmorgo

Try switching quickly back and forth from park to neutral next time it happens. Sounds like a neutral safety switch issue to me. Mine started out infrequent and usually would start if I stuck it in neutral but sometimes wouldn't, getting worse and worse until I was having to short the solenoid to get it to start two out of three times. It wouldn't hurt to clean out the NSS anyhow. If it's never been done it could probably use it anyhow. http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/. I ran a bead of silicon around mine before putting it back together to try to keep grime out a bit longer. Could also be the rod between the ignition cylinder and the switch is out of adjustment and sometimes doesn't quite make contact. But my money's on the NSS.

If what Tim says is true, then I expect this won't have a huge amount of bearing on the engine running. Unless the fuel pump switch is still getting power from the original fuel pump circuit in which case the fuel pump isn't running when there's no power to that red wire. And your post about no power at the socket is what I'm going off, sounds like an intermittent problem? You may need to consult your dad on this. If you really do have no spark (how do you know), it's unrelated to the latch relay, and considering with a carb on there we have no idea what other changes could have been made or what your ignition system looks like, or if it has anything at all to do with the ECU. If the fuel injection parts still exist I would strongly suggest putting them back in. I realize the 2.5L is only TBI but it's still a major step backwards to go to a carb, and anyone who says otherwise is either lying or not very bright. No offence to your Dad. But it did run like this and you should probably solve why it's not running before you switch things back just to prevent having multiple not-running problems happen at once.

I think this problem is best solved by moving somewhere else...

Took a quick peak at the wiring diagram Eagle gave you, and the only relay I found on it that is consistent with the wire colours you name is called the "latch" relay, I have no idea what it does. Both the pink wires and the black/white trace back to the ECU and the diagnostic connector. Looks like the pink wires are actually spliced so I suspect there black/white one's the one that really matters. The red wire apparently gets its power from a green fusible link, which also supplies power to the fuel pump relay which you say no longer exists (did you wire that switch yourself and/or do you actually know where the power comes from?) and the TCU which you don't have because manual trans. So you likely wouldn't experience any other symptoms if that fusible link was bad. You could easily have toasted it. I hope you use a test light and/or voltmeter to diagnose electrical issues. Jumping wires at random is a great way to let the magic smoke out.

The officers will see an older vehicle and leave you alone. Third brake lights weren't required until the early '90's, and the '80's-tastic MJ will be left alone.

I've rarely seen the check engine light on my MJ come on, even though it's thrown a handful of codes over the years. I think the only two times the CEL ever came on was once for the TPS and once for a charging issue, bur i've had all manner of codes that didn't trigger the light, CPS, CmPS, coolant temp sensor, and a couple others I can't remember right now. OBD1 isn't necessarily like like OBD2 in that it may not throw a light for less-than-critical reasons. But I can't really comment on how Nissan's OBD1 would work, as the purpose of OBD2 was to standardize all the crazy systems that the various manufacturers had come up with.

Yeah but they're just a bunch of enablers.

What do your driveshaft angles look like? The two should be the same (i.e. your tcase output and pinion shafts should be parallel), and there is a maximum angle on the u-joint. What's you're pinion angle at? Also what u-joints are you using?

Looks like you've got the entire button, but do you have everything it pushes? There should be momentary switch poking through the steering lock plate and steering wheel.

I wonder why Toyotas cost $20 more? Huge price jump.

You may also need to grab the spring that goes with the three-spoke wheel, which isn't pictured. It's the one that puts pressure on the steering lock plate. Whether or not it's because of a two-spoke to three-spoke swap I don't know, but when I bought my MJ the horn didn't work because the cancelling cam was missing. I had to find another spring because when I put in the cancelling cam the spring I had was too long and I actually bent the lock plate trying to compress it enough to put it back together. Best bet is to get everything from the same donor, eventually what I wound up doing after having to go back to the yard for more tiny little parts.

No. Silicon will say DOT5. My commercial manager told me that regular DOT3 and 4 were actually synthesized now anyway because it's cheaper than the conventional so he wasn't sure what the benefit was of the stuff labelled as synthetic beyond being able to sell it for a higher dollar... But don't take my word for it, just something to think about. Eagle: this hasn't been a great winter for that XJ. Hopefully the people involved are doing okay.

If you scroll down and hit "full version" they will. But yes, I've also found that annoying.

:yeah that: I'm all for newer technology but if it doesn't look like it belongs on the truck...

Herp-derp missed that it was a '91. Cruiser's tips won't be as useful to you.

Have you done cruiser's tips yet? www.cruiser54.com

The later shafts are '96+ I think. But if you're not needing to upgrade your shafts, simply locking over the CAD is more than sufficient, and much easier (and cheaper) than replacing the shafts outright. And if you do replace the 2-piece shaft with a 1-piece, you'll have to put a seal into a spot in the pumpkin that not only isn't guaranteed to be machined to accept a seal, you have to pull the carrier to put it in.

Factory roll bar mounts?

I don't know if it's an issue with the naked eye, although slo-mo video footage of LED lights always catches then blinking, full-on off and on.

No trick for counting check engine light flashes? Turning the key, or a paper clip in the diagnostic port? I don't know a heck of a lot about Nissans

Frostbit my finger on the key last time it happened, lol. Probably overfuelling, yeah. Although all that really means is not all the fuel going in is being burnt. Does it have any sort of self-diagnostic abilities? If it's not switching to closed loop it's probably either the O2 or coolant temp sensors, but could also be an issue with MAP/MAF sensors, or a vacuum leak or a bunch of other potential things, including failed injectors. If you can pull trouble codes it might help pinpoint an issue. Only reason I can think of a fuel pressure regulator could cause it is if it's regulating too high, but I'd expect a properly functioning injection system would detect the extra fuel and turn the injectors down.

Cycling the key didn't do me any good either, although I didn't do it too many times cause it's @#$%ing hard to turn at -40.

I want to say the rear speakers were 6x9's, but I could be wrong. They were optional though, so not all trucks had them.

Are you suggesting that the entire bleeder screw turns when you turn it? Cause that's what's supposed to happen.

Me or him?