robfg67

I know the answer is subjective at best, but how significant of a difference do these make?

This wheel has been listed for over one year. He's looking for a rube that isn't out there...for that price.

Would those rears fit the MJ? How much modification? I'm sorry I missed that one.

Just sent a donation. Thanks Pete.

I scuffed the area up well and used the entire tube.

$12K truck on it's best day.

Brilliant! I'll tackle this job this weekend and post the pictures. Thanks

Pictures attached...

Can you get a temperature reading with a Digital Infrared Thermometer?

You would think that the seller might have a few more pictures for the money that he's asking.

Do you think JB Weld would work? If not, can you recommend an epoxy? Thanks

I bought the traditional JB Weld but it will not work as well if the box is PP or PE. I'm guessing no one here knows, so I'll just try the JB Weld regular. Thanks

I cracked the black plastic HVAC box (located under the dash on the passenger side) and want to repair it with an epoxy. Does anyone know what type of plastic it is made from?

Thanks for all responses. I never overfill the bottle. I found it weird that it spit out antifreeze now, but the weather here in Massachusetts just turned hot (over 85 for several days) recently, so perhaps that explains it. I'll start with the 22 psi cap and go from there and report back.

I have a '90 Renix with the 4.0L and the factory closed system. The original radiator was replaced about six months ago with a NAPA model that had a traditional radiator cap. A 16 cap was installed. Well, I noticed after I got home from a short trip yesterday, antifreeze was dripping from the cap. Since the radiator was replaced, the truck always runs at just under 210-even under load, so it wasn't overheating. Should I replace the cap with a different pressure rating?

Got it welded and put the repaired cable in place and....it works!

Ok, I just took the seat apart and found the problem. The cable wire came separated from the "Z hook" (small piece in picture 2). One end of the hook slips into the thumb latch on the top side of the seat and the other end has a small hole that the cable inserts into. The cable came out of the hole. I tried inserting it and pressing it with a pair of vise grips, but it would not hold the first time I tried to move the thumb latch. Can this cable be welded to the z hook? I'm guessing that finding a replacement would be near impossible? Is there a similar cable that could be retrofitted?

Did you zip tie the sheath to the frame just to take up the slack?

Hey Pizzaman09, I just picked up a pair of bucket seats from a '88 Eliminator and the passenger seat won't fold forward. There is no resistance when I engage the lever (that's located at shoulder height when you are sitting in the seat). Picture attached. Did you have to pull the entire seat cover off to make your zip tie fix? Lastly, will I need some hog rings and the hog ring tool to get the seat cover back on correctly? Thanks

What a kick in the pants. Peace to his family.

Thanks, but I think schardein has one for me. If not, then I'll get back to you.

Hi, I want to add the trailer harness connector as detailed in JMO413's January 2020 post and that Shardein found in the Cadillac CTS with the V6 engines. Does anyone have the male & female connectors for sale that I can use to add the trailer harness without cutting into the factory wires? Thanks

I have a '90 MJ with the 4.0L & factory ac. With the ac on and the compressor running the electric fan will come on and run for 8-10 seconds and then stop for about 15 seconds. Shouldn't it run continuously if the ac is on? Thanks

Sounds good. Have fun & be safe out there.

Got it, thanks