robfg67

Pete, not sure how the Rusty's control arms compare in length to the stock ones. Wow, what a can of worms.

Ok, after doing some additional research, I think my next best step is to install the control arm drop kit. I'm going to order a set from Rocky Road Outfitters because they are MJ specific.

1990 with only 30k miles, auto transmission with air conditioning but runs hot while under load. The temp needle has never run into the red section of the gauge, but it has come close. I ran Prestone cleaner through it and then flushed, with the same results. I'm guessing that a partially plugged radiator is probably the main culprit. I'd love to do the closed to open full conversion, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find a write up that everyone can agree on or seems to leave important details out. So, where should I source a new direct replacement closed system radiator? Thanks

LimeyJeeper, 2 things... I just read the entire 16-page build thread on your orange LS MJ this past weekend and all I can say is Wow, congratulations. I just visited the OME website and I didn't see any products for the MJ. Did you just select Wrangler JK parts?

Good point. I'll do a chalk test on the four tires to determine the best tire pressure.

Great question Pete. I've driven lots of different vehicles over the years, including work trucks and work vans. My MJ is much worse than almost any of them-although I was in a well worn Ford Escape once that rode like a cement truck. I've gone under the truck and there is nothing that sticks out as an obvious loose or worn suspension part. The frame is solid, but it rides stiff and there are some unusual noises when going over rough roads-especially when turning. I think that I'll find a shop that specializes in off road suspensions and pay for a diagnosis. I can change the parts myself.

Thanks for all the info on tire load index. I think that I'll stick with LT's because I do carry some heavy loads.

Lowered psi to 25 and it rode a bit softer. More to be done, of course.

Sway Bar or Control Arm Drop Brackets?

Coheed... 1. Why did you choose LT instead of Passenger tires? 2. Where would I source front springs that have a better spring rate that would accommodate the 4.5" lift?

I'll do that tomorrow and report back!

Pete, there's not a lot of great news in your answer.

E rated with a Rusty's 4.5" lift.

My MJ had LT265/75R16 tires on them when I bought it. I keep the tire pressure at 30psi, but the truck seems to run stiff and I suspect the thicker side wall is to blame. I do occasionally load 700-1,000 lbs in the bed, but I'm sure passenger tires can easily handle that weight. Thoughts?

Would it kill the seller to at least clean up the mess on the passenger side first? Assuming no rust or any other significant issues, $10-$11k all day long. Give it a repaint, Pioneer decals, and better wheels and it's a very nice truck.

Just a bit too bizarre.

I read somewhere that flushing through the coolant plug will get rid of crud that you can't reach by just any number of "typical" flushes. Will going through the CTS instead get rid of the same crud?

Thanks for the picture. I think that I'm in the right spot. Could there be another plug of the same size near it? This is a difficult area to scan fully.

I have a 1990 MJ with the 4.0 motor. Picture is taken from under the manifold on the left side of engine. I stuck the 8MM drain removal socket in it and it seems to fit perfectly. I want to remove it so I can do a full coolant flush.

Ok, what should a NOS item like this sell for?

Am I right to think that his asking price of $450 is fair?

Are you doing the conversion to R134a or just replacing the compressor?

$33k with 5 hours to go...bananas!

Zomeizter...Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner! I connected the two wires to the temp sensor and the YELLOW & BLACK wires to the battery and it works!!! Thanks for the diagram.

Appreciate that. No rush.