robfg67

You already have have 3 Jeeps :doh:

I've done the H4 headlight & new wiring upgrade and it is one of the BEST mods you can do. I spent over $200 and would do it again. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm

Yeah, I haven't had the cause/reason to spend much time under the truck lately. You name it and it's already been replaced and/or repaired. I never thought to look for frame rot-especially since I removed the bed and POR-15'd the entire underbody less than 3 years ago. And yes, the next Jeep pick-up (Wrangler based with the new V6 Pentastar engine) is expected to be available late next year. I love my MJ, but it's time. :cry:

The thing is I really don't want to put any more money into her. She is my DD until April. Come next winter, I have my sights on the next Jeep pickup. But this is a safety issue and I will address ASAP.

Just noticed some frame rot on the right side rear frame. How dangerous is this? I need to have this truck make it through the winter.

...but the mouse is happy :banana:

Pete, ban this dirtbag until there is a sincere apology!

Could be the Flex Plate. Read through these posts: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/inte ... ng-998787/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/knock-b ... -4-0l-248/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/engine-noise-19496/

Where's the fill plug on that thing?

I have a couple of Junk Yards nearby. If I have to I will grab another fog light switch from and old Cherokee. I'm hoping the rear defrost switch will work.

Can I use the factory XJ rear defrost switch to activate the cargo box light? I have the factory cargo box light fixture, but not the cargo box switch. I have the factory fog light switch, but it is being used. I know I can buy a universal switch, but I want the dash to look factory.

Geonovast, that was brilliant! :clapping:

Can someone explain the benefit of running two transfer cases? :???:

aka...the "Covered Wagon' Jeep

Engine: 4.0L (120K miles on rebuilt engine) Transmission: Peugeot BA10 (224K original miles) Transfer Case: NP 242 Full time (swapped from XJ) Bed Size: Short Axles: Stock Build Date: Unknown Garaged: Walpole, MA Daily Driver December - March Purchased October, 2007 for $400. Over $9,000 spent so far. October, 2007: The Build Begins: The Transformation: February, 2010:

TerraWombat, are there many Mafia JY's in NJ?

:dunno: ...so no one has a write up on how to change the rear wheel bearings on a D 35?

Yeah, but if I use a 84-89, won't I run the risk of having the same problem. These are some old axles. :doh:

just need new bearings-starting to howl under load. What year range/vehicles are a direct swap?

It's the D35 stock original rear axle with 233K miles. It has the 3.07 gears.

Has anyone here done this? If so, can you post a good write-up? Lastly, any recommendations for stock replacement parts?

The spare tire winch mechanism is valuable as well. I would grab it!

Well, on the drive home tonight, it began howling & shrieking very loudly. I guess I know what my next project is.

I'm interested in your bucket seats/brackets. Couple questions... 1. Are the seats factory MJ or XJ seats? 2. Are the seat brackets factory MJ or XJ? 3. Color of seats? I live in Walpole, MA, so I can come to you to pick them up.

I recently had to replace my overflow bottle and during the cooling system repair process (replaced tired hoses & flushed system) the serpentine belt got wet (with antifreeze). It's been about 3 days (about 50 miles total) driving and I have a metal knocking noise at all speeds that sounds similar to the bearing in the idler pulley going bad. I didn't touch the belt adjustment at all. Also, I have NO belt squeal at either. Do I just need to give the belt more time to "dry-out" or could I have another problem? Thanks