robfg67

The thing is I really don't want to put any more money into her. She is my DD until April. Come next winter, I have my sights on the next Jeep pickup. But this is a safety issue and I will address ASAP.

Just noticed some frame rot on the right side rear frame. How dangerous is this? I need to have this truck make it through the winter.

...but the mouse is happy :banana:

Pete, ban this dirtbag until there is a sincere apology!

Could be the Flex Plate. Read through these posts: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/inte ... ng-998787/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/knock-b ... -4-0l-248/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/engine-noise-19496/

Where's the fill plug on that thing?

I have a couple of Junk Yards nearby. If I have to I will grab another fog light switch from and old Cherokee. I'm hoping the rear defrost switch will work.

Can I use the factory XJ rear defrost switch to activate the cargo box light? I have the factory cargo box light fixture, but not the cargo box switch. I have the factory fog light switch, but it is being used. I know I can buy a universal switch, but I want the dash to look factory.

Geonovast, that was brilliant! :clapping:

Can someone explain the benefit of running two transfer cases? :???:

aka...the "Covered Wagon' Jeep

Engine: 4.0L (120K miles on rebuilt engine) Transmission: Peugeot BA10 (224K original miles) Transfer Case: NP 242 Full time (swapped from XJ) Bed Size: Short Axles: Stock Build Date: Unknown Garaged: Walpole, MA Daily Driver December - March Purchased October, 2007 for $400. Over $9,000 spent so far. October, 2007: The Build Begins: The Transformation: February, 2010:

TerraWombat, are there many Mafia JY's in NJ?

:dunno: ...so no one has a write up on how to change the rear wheel bearings on a D 35?

Yeah, but if I use a 84-89, won't I run the risk of having the same problem. These are some old axles. :doh:

just need new bearings-starting to howl under load. What year range/vehicles are a direct swap?

It's the D35 stock original rear axle with 233K miles. It has the 3.07 gears.

Has anyone here done this? If so, can you post a good write-up? Lastly, any recommendations for stock replacement parts?

The spare tire winch mechanism is valuable as well. I would grab it!

Well, on the drive home tonight, it began howling & shrieking very loudly. I guess I know what my next project is.

I'm interested in your bucket seats/brackets. Couple questions... 1. Are the seats factory MJ or XJ seats? 2. Are the seat brackets factory MJ or XJ? 3. Color of seats? I live in Walpole, MA, so I can come to you to pick them up.

I recently had to replace my overflow bottle and during the cooling system repair process (replaced tired hoses & flushed system) the serpentine belt got wet (with antifreeze). It's been about 3 days (about 50 miles total) driving and I have a metal knocking noise at all speeds that sounds similar to the bearing in the idler pulley going bad. I didn't touch the belt adjustment at all. Also, I have NO belt squeal at either. Do I just need to give the belt more time to "dry-out" or could I have another problem? Thanks

Symptoms: Engine starts fine and runs at normal idle. As I start to depress gas pedal, the engine hesitates & bogs. I cannot get above 8 MPH. History: Other than being old (140K miles), this engine has been extremely well taken care of and this is the first mechanical problem since I've owned her (almost 3 years). My coolant bottle cracked recently and I replaced it with a new one. Also replaced the heater hoses and upper radiator hose at the same time (had no issues with the hoses, but they looked tired). Purged the system correctly and it does not leak anywhere or overheat. However, I did drive the Jeep home (about 5 miles-all back roads-no highway) with the cracked bottle-the temp gauge read over 260 while steaming badly at the bottle & around the manifold side of the valve cover. Cause???: Because the overheating problem appears to be corrected, I'm not sure if I have an unrelated engine control issue (EGR, TPS or similar) or could the block/manifold be damaged from the 5-mile overheating ride home. Can you guys recommend any possible causes and/or tests I can run to identify the problem? Thanks! It just fixed itself! After my third test-drive she started running normal. I have no idea why.

Yes, I did plug it back in before the test drive. I'm heading back outside now to purge the air correctly this time.

Blatz, I followed your "air purging" instructions but I did it with the engine running (my fault-I didn't read your instructions correctly). When I took her out for a test drive, she was running like crap-low idle and no compression. Would this be symptomatic of air still in the system or could I have more significant problems? The reason why I needed to purge the system was because my original overflow bottle (21 years old) cracked.