robfg67

I'll try to force bleed it on Wednesday and if that fails, I'll buy the OEM clutch cylinder & hose.

Will do! My next day off is Wednesday, so I'll have a report back then. Again, does anyone know if a clutch cylinder can fail without dropping its fluid onto the fuse box?

I'll have a brake bleeder vacuum pump this week. Hopefully, that will do it.

I did not bench bleed the slave cylinder. I did NOT remove the plastic straps.

I replaced my internal slave cylinder in the BA10 5-speed with an OEM and the pedal feel is unchanged-there is only about 2" of resistance. I followed the bleeding instructions in the Jeep Factory Manual. Do I need to use a vacuum pump to more forcefully purge the air? Would this technique be worthwile: Could it be a bad clutch cylinder? I have no brake fluid leaking onto the fuse box, but could the cylinder go bad without any leaking?

I actually couldn't believe how easy it was to take off. I didn't see the smaller outer screws the first time I looked at it. With the help of my son, I dropped the transmission today and replaced the slave. Although time consuming, the job was fairly easy.

Thanks Ren, I'll pull the lower black boot off!

I'm planning to drop the transmission to replace the internal slave cylinder tomorrow. I took the center console out tonight and put a 3/4 open end wrench on the nut on the lower part of the stick shift rod and it didn't budge. Of course it could be 20 years of oxidation. What is the best way to remove the stick?

Some guys remove the cross member so the TC hangs lower, but I was able to remove those bolts without touching the CM. I used a socket with multiple extensions for those top two bolts and an open-end wrench on the other bolts-with a whole lot of patience. This write-up will help: http://www.weatherlover1.com/jeep/242.htm

Thanks fellas! Brent, have you used this website before? Are they really OEM parts?

Yup, you're right, you did recommend the dealer slave. Would it be correct to assume that the job would entail: 1. Remove crossmember 2. Remove transfer case 3. Remove transmission 4. Replace slave (with OEM)

Back in January, my internal slave cylinder and clutch were replaced at a repair shop for $900. Well, I got in the truck yesterday and the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor before it engages. Unfortunately, the repair is under warranty for 'Parts Only' for 90 days. I’m wondering if I should swap in a new slave cylinder myself or could the Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission with 217K miles be to blame. Perhaps I should just upgrade to the AX-15. What are your thoughts?

I had a front-end shimmy at highway speeds recently and replaced the track bar for $71 and it was solved.

Aemsee, no this is not resolved. The adjusting rod isn't bent. I have the 242 gate installed, but the rest of the 231 parts are the same. This write-up said the 231 arm & pivot assembly could be used for the 242 swap: http://www.weatherlover1.com/jeep/242.htm

Geonovast, you are correct. I can only adjust the linkage to get either the top 4 or bottom 4 gear selections. I'm in the northeast and the road conditions after a snow storm can vary widely. I don't take her off-road and having full-time 4WD will be nice.

Yes, I should have mentioned that! I used a new full-time shifter gate in the truck.

I just finished swapping-out my part-time 231 for the full-time 242. This job is straightforward and everything works fine except for the linkage. I read the FSM and I have fiddled with the adjustment nut on the rod that connects directly to the TC shifter with no luck. I can line it up to get either the first or second range of gears but not all 5: Range 1: 2WD Part Time 4WD Full Time 4WD Neutral Range 2: Part Time 4WD Full Time 4WD Neutral 4WD Low Does anyone have any tips to get all 5 gears?

Thanks fellas, I removed the pin from the carrier side of intermediate axle shaft and it slid right out. Also, prying the carrier out of the housing was easy. I just put everything back together and I'll wait a few hours for the RTV to cure before I test drive her. :cheers:

jpdocdave , yes the carrier needs to be removed. I found a write-up on www.madxj.com that instucts you to open the vacuum discnnect box, remove the collar, and pull the "inside" axle shaft out. Not sure why I made this more complicated than it is. Thanks!

Hey Jim...long time. Yeah, but the passenger side axle shaft ends at the vacuum disconnect box. Is their something more that needs to be removed before I yank the carrier out of the differntial housing?

Do I need to remove both hubs to take-out the differential gears? I have the driver’s side hub out and by using a pry bar that side of the gears is sliding out. I have not removed the passenger’s side hub or touched the vacuum disconnect on that side of the axle. Before I apply too much pressure to the passenger side of the differential gears, does the passenger’s side hub need to be touched?

Sounds good Brent - thanks for the help!

The driver’s side axle seal spit the bit recently and needs to be replaced. I found this write-up and have a couple questions. 1. What size ring spanner wrench is required (for the crown wheel bolt on the differential)? 2. Does the ring spanner wrench need to be offset? Thanks fellas!

Didn't you offer your opinion on price at $8K?

I wish the seller well, but that truck will not sell at that price. $5-6K range is more likely.