robfg67

Yup, it looks like it must be the alternator... Multimeter readings at battery: Engine off: 12.25 Engine running (accesories off): 12.3 Engine running (accesories on): 11.8 Anyone have any suppliers to stay away from? I was going to head down to Advanced Auto Parts.

Lately the volt gauge reading has been spending a lot more time at 9 volts than it ever has before. Also, when I turn the heat on high, it always drops the volt meter down to 9. Lastly, it will ocasionally have a unsteady idle. I suspect the 20 year old battery cables. Has anyone experienced this before? If it is the cables, has anyone ordered the factory cables (part 56002286) from http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog.html

Thanks fior the links, I got it!

I can't for the life of me get the lock cylinder back together. I found the instructions below in a search and it doesn't help. I just can't get the cylinder to make contact with the tab. Any ideas? LOCK CYLINDER Removal 1) Remove horn button and steering wheel. Refer to the STEERING WHEEL & HORN REMOVAL article. Remove turn signal switch. Remove key warning buzzer switch and contacts as an assembly, using needle-nose pliers. 2) On models with standard column, turn ignition lock cylinder (clockwise) 2 detent positions beyond the "OFF/LOCK" position. On models with tilt column, turn lock cylinder to "LOCK" position. On all models, compress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove lock cylinder from housing. See Fig. 1. Installation 1) To install, insert key in lock cylinder. Hold cylinder sleeve while turning key clockwise until key stops. Align lock cylinder retaining tab with keyway in housing. Insert cylinder into housing. 2) Push lock cylinder inward until it contacts lock sector. Rotate cylinder to engage it with lock sector. Push lock cylinder inward until cylinder retaining tab engages in housing groove. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

If it sounds like metal against metal, my best guess would be your u-joint. Have they been changed before? They are cheap.

Corey, where can you get an AX-15 for $200?

Thanks for all the write-ups. I have the proper tools for taking the column apart, but I have another issue with the column. The lock cylinder needs to be replaced. The key is difficult to remove and I need to pull-back on the key once the engine is started-it will not pull-back to the "on" position by itself. If I don't pull-back on the key it will cause the starter to stay on and eventually 'fry' the starter. Ask me how I know. How difficult is it to swap a lock cylinder?

Can someone comment on the quality of this part? My wheel bearings are shot and I'm considering purchasing this part. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... ab9e&gan=1

My steering column has a lot of slop in the tilt mechanism-it's possible to move the wheel vertically in the 12 & 6 postion about an inch and a half while NOT touching the tilt stick. I'm not sure that it will pass it's upcoming safety inspection. What year range column will be a direct replacement? I'm heading out to my local JY's tomorrow.

I tried to get the wires from this connector and failed. Can anyone let me know how to connect the wires to make the dash light work? ...and yes, I have the correct resevoir.

219K on my Peugeot!

I recently replaced this. Fortunately I found a parking brake assembly from a MJ with an automatic transmission. 3 bolts hold the assembly in place-although you do need to be very flexibile to get in there. The teeth were worn out on my original one.

Slightly off topic... I plan on swapping out my 20 year old lower control arms with the beefier WJ ones. Do I need to use a shoe or shims? Can't I just swp them out? My front end is completly stock. Yes, I'm aware I'll need to trim the arms to fit.

So I should take the top shim out?

I replaced my rusted-out passenger door with a clean passenger door from a 1991 4-door cherokee. The old door had one shim in the top hinge and no shims in the bottom and it operated fine. I used the same shim in the top hinge on the replacement door and the bottom of the door is rubbing up against the fender. What would be the correct shim placement to correct the gap at the bottom of the door?

Good point! Does anyone know of a JY in Massachusetts/Rhode island/New Hampshire that has a WJ in stock? I've been to JY's in Millis, Carver, & Blackstone MA in the last week and they do not.

Pete, if I grab WJ arms from a JY, won't the bushings be crap?

Has anyone bought from this guy before? Can anyone give any feedback on this product? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lower- ... ccessories

I currently work at a dealership and we have just begun killing the engines in the clunkers. The process involves draining the engine oil, adding 2 quarts of liquid silicone glass to the engine, and then running the engine until it fails. Most engines last just under a minute but the 4.0 runs for just over 3 minutes befores she quits.

Will a pair of tail lights from an '87 MJ (built in '86) fit my '89 MJ?

Great write-up! I recently swapped to the full-time transfer case in my MJ and I can't adjust the linkage to engage all positions. Do I need to also swap-out my stock command-trac linkage for the full-time linkage?

Thanks jpdocdave, that sounds believable!

Does anyone know what ECE stands for?

According to the MJ Parts Catalogue, there are two different types of bushings: Part # 5200 1161 w/o ECE Part # 5200 2539 w/ ECE What is ECE and which bushing is correct for my stock ’89 MJ?

Of course the bleeding pump didn't work. This is such a pain in the a**! :wall: