robfg67

I bought this radio from a member here on the forum earlier this month and the display is not back-lit. The radio station characters are there but difficult to read in daylight and impossible when dark. The display is a self contained box attached to the mother board with a ribbon. I'm guessing that I need a new display box-not sure that I can crack it open and replace a bulb. Any thoughts?

Rubikahn, I have the same Rusty's 4.5" lift with those springs in the back. When I have as little as 300-400 pounds in the bed, the rear end sags noticeably. I read on this forum that the heaviest springs aren't in in use until the lighter springs let the body drop 2-3". This keeps the ride more comfortable while empty, but allows considerable sag before loading the heavier leaves on the stack. Do you have the same issue?

Followed the instructions carefully and love the results. Thanks to OP for writing this up. I would add that you MUST release the speedometer cable from the transfer case so you have enough slack. Very happy with the results...

Does anyone have any experience with adding air shocks? Monroe makes an air adjustable shock called Max-Air. I have a Rusty's (no laughing) 4.5" lift, so would these work?

Reached out to them by email and got a quick and detailed response. However, $1,100 before U-bolts or shipping. Pricey.

One more question. Instead of replacing the entire leaf springs, could I just add a leaf? Would this get me closer to the Big Ton Package payload rating?

Very happy with clip. Thanks

Great, I'll get a set of Dormans. I had about 300 pounds in the bed last week and the rear end was sagging badly.

Both General Spring and Hell Creek no longer have these springs available. My 33 year old springs are shot and I need to replace them. Any other sources out there? Thanks

I've got a 1990 MJ with the 4.0 litre engine, auto trans with column shifter and it has the basic "idiot light" instrument cluster now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385603331196?hash=item59c7bfe47c:g:X70AAOSw-~NkWvEP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0Bh6Y8Mo%2FPWqU4XBo61agnYFZhvwUUWw0JRyvzVT6MLcQhG3VIBMykl8WUtgjVfG0ormQ4cAZclIOHpVtFR4IC2T93CYUrUQcmSkrHAaWs2urjIj4yFkyjHOhY7fUj2%2B1dw0HX5LOahHEYG90gnj5ROI67WjBzL9d9GgM764OkmgSXZ4YHNhZSOkRaVL%2BNaDVezFh34MfqtvtHgn8PVHilF5nOTcupIAswxzbBEcoZeb4W9HjklrZWPzmm80geBwlJIxN3bcnzzQCAD84JjR77k%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_qnz-uXYg I realize that I would need to cut out a section in the tach to display the PRNDL. Thanks

Ordered one, thanks. It looks like its built to last.

...and it's gone.

That certainly looks clean. It will sell for his asking price. Does Pennsylvania have more MJ's per capita than any other state?

Nascar type tires...love the look!

Briefly, before my question, I have a 1990 with factory ac and the 4.0 engine. I did a nitrogen pressure test at 125 psi for 12 hours with no drop in pressure. I want to do the R134a conversion and found this kit on Rock Auto that includes a new compressor, receiver/drier, and expansion valve. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5243949&cc=1181720&pt=17507&jsn=402 Is this a plug and play kit or will I need anything else? It looks like the connections on the new compressor are in different locations than the current one. If so, does that mean that I need to order new hoses/lines that line up with them? Thanks

Thanks...it took me hours. Now I just need cargo to load at night.

Got the cargo light installed and wired this morning. Thanks to all and a special thanks to schardein who acted as my proxy brain.

Jeff, Thanks for this info. Exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have a recommendation as to where to purchase the drier, new 0-rings, and the proper oil?

Cruiser, You wrote: "Plug one end of the jumper wire in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire of the harness and you’ll be in permanent Power mode." I'm assuming that the black wire cavity stays empty. I worded my question incorrectly.

Hey Cruiser54, Just looking through your Renix website-good stuff! In the bypassing the comfort switch tip, does the black wire to the switch just stay in that position?

Cruiser, what are your thoughts on vacuuming it down and adding R12 back in? Yes, I know it's expensive.

So I was able to pick up a 1/4" male to 3/16 female adapter and did a pressure test at 100 psi for 30 minutes and no pressure drop...yes, the king valves were open. I then removed all the nitrogen gas, got the gauges out of the way, started up the engine, turned ac on and jumped out the low pressure switch, and the compressor clutch engaged. I only ran it for 2 seconds as there is no charge in the system. So not sure where the R12 charge went, but there are no leaks and the clutch engaged. What should be my next step?

All great points. Just a couple more questions... 1. What is the pressure that the system should be tested at. Residential central systems are pressure tested at 150 psi and mini splits at about 500 psi with dry nitrogen gas. I can test the system without any additional help. 2. I thought that a R134a conversion required that all those parts be replaced. What is involved/required to do the R134a conversion you recommend? Is there a DIY write up that I can follow or a kit that you recommend? Thanks again.

I have a '90 MJ with the 4.0 engine and factory ac. There is no charge left inside the system and I want to convert to R134a. The website JeepAir.com has all the parts that I need: Compressor Kit $279 Condenser $120 Evaporator $140 Liquid Line Drier to Condenser $52 Discharge Hose $35 Suction Hose $87 Quick Disconnect Eliminator Kit (needed because they don't have the other liquid line) $100 I'm sure that their parts are high quality, but wow is this expensive. Is there a better/cheaper way to go to get my ac back in order?

Why do you think it has 4/10ths of a mile on it?