CWLONGSHOT

Last set I bought came from quadra tec...They had them in stock and in my hands in four days. CW

Me to...but who is to say it didnt fall out?? CW

:cheers:

Juan, Why not just herculine it as you have done in the cab? I have a gallon here form some time back when I got it on sale... CW

Good advice. Doesn't need to be lithium grease, the same stuff you use to grease the joint will work just fine. As for removal, yes just push it forwards and the rear joint will come out of rear yoke. Then just push/pull to rear to remove complete drive shaft. Good luck!! CW

I have an additional leaf to install in my Rustys pack. I actually LIKE mine!! I just want it a bit stiffer...its GREAT as a wheeling only application. The damn things are damn near supple!!! Its just when I ned to throw something in the back... It won't take any weight before its dragging arse!! I also have a brandy new set of coils for the front so I can swap out the ACOS's. CW

Correct. Are you replacing both joints? (If no... You really should.) The rear joint only presses in to the drive shaft it self. the front joint presses into both the yoke and drive shaft. I would recomend you do the rear joint first to get the hang of it. Are you doing it with a vice or a couple sockets on the floor/bench? CW

I am VERY surprised you have had good results with this product. Glad it works for you, it dosen't for me. I use it for many applications, but for real durability ...well it sucks!! Its fine if its not going to see stuff rubbed and ground into it. It will come off fairly easily. Cinder blocks, metal and anything hard or sharp digs right thru it. It will hold up to foot traffic and fire wood and the like. One thing I LOVE THIS stuff for is handles on sledge hammers and gun stocks!!! CW

Like I said, if you using it for the joint at the rear axle, You can grease it once its installed. BUT, AS you install. or rather when you remove a cap. BE CAREFUL NOT To loose any bearings. adding a bit of grease to hold the bearings in place HELPS with assembly by holding the little pieces in place. If your stock, the tail shaft of the T case just pulls out. BUT depending on your year you may loose some fluid. So have a basin handy to catch it. CW

Don't worry about the questions.. Your correct this is not a hard one. The unit will come greased. The hole IS for a Zerk fitting so the joint can be greased again. Some applications will not allow the Zerk to stay installed. there are a couple different kinds of fittings and ways to get grease into the joint. For a drive shaft, the rear most joint, at the rear axle. You will likely be able to leave the Zerk in place. In front axle applications there is no room for it. Here are a couple things to keep you out of trouble. When you remove the caps. Be sure to have some grease handy and be sure NOT TO LOOSE any one the bearings. The bearings are standing up, shoulder to shoulder around the full circumference of each cap. Extra grease will keep these in place. Once you get the old joint out. CLEAN each of the bores and lightly grease them. CW

OOH OOH, look how purdy!!! Good job painting!!! CW

This really should be in TECH... But I'll guess your "TOE" is off. Go have the alignment checked. CW

I'm not even going to venture a guess as to what it was... Accept to say that's the most godawful looking abortion I have ever seen. CW

Its SPLINED, NOT threaded. Just pull it off. It is glued and will not come easily. When mine fell off and I put on a large wooden "egg". CW Thanks CW. :bowdown: My pleasure!! :cheers: :cheers:

You have a stick no? If your crawling in the rocks, you SHOULD have a hand throttle anyway. Unless you have three feet! :roll: :eek: :D It takes a bit to get used to, but when you need it its like pure gold!!! I also use it to govern my throttle in the TJ for heavy /long winching and "jumping" another jeeper etc. Its very slick and no electricity is needed. CW

Its SPLINED, NOT threaded. Just pull it off. It is glued and will not come easily. When mine fell off and I put on a large wooden "egg". CW

I got a chance to make up new brackets for the front winch protection today. Better, about 5" lower and 3" in toward engine. CW

It's a Jeep, it's never over, only done for now. Truer words have never been spoken!!! The sooner you face up to the disease we all share the better!! Jeeps get in your BLOOD!!! Its not a matter of need, pure WANT LUST takes over!! :brows: :roll: :D CW

Juan knows this... he just went thru it a couple months back!! This is my suggestion as well. In-case you didn't know, the AW4 is computer controlled so if the switch is dirty or faulty, this could very well be your problem!!

For what and where I drive, I would recomend 4:56 or 4:88. 4:88 gets you a bit more RPM's, but isn't as strong as we already went over. 4:56 is a good compromise. 4:10 are a damn site better than the 3:07's but as I already mentioned, the early 4.0's don't quite have the grunt and need a taller gear set. Its also depends on your use, lower gears are good for rocks, not so good for mud where wheel speed is needed to keep the lugs clean. So, you see, ultimately its gonna depend on your intended use.. CVW

1) Good advice!! It will handle them well if you easy of the go pedal. You DEF can break if you Drive like you stole it!! 35" s generally accepted as max usable size for the HP-D30 axle. 2) WELL.... With 3:07's YES, with the tallest gears available, NO!! ESP when looking at the D30 and 4:88's the pinion for that ratio is TINY...DEF not as strong as 4:56 and lower. With the D44 you are not going to get to that point if your pairing it with the D30. 3) MORE good advice!! But I'll push that back a bit...even 31's get old fast with 3:07's as Eagle mentioned!!! This all changes as horse power increases. So these comments are for a basically stock 4.0 either Renix or HO. 4) He 's gonna LOVE the 4:10 in comparison!!! My TJ has 4:10's and 35"s. My MJ has 4:56's and 33's. My MJ has no real engine mods for horse power, the TJ has a bunch. the TJ will drive at any legal speed up any hill around here with no problems. Even with the advantage of the 4:56's and smaller tires in the MJ, I'll have to down shift to 3rd on a some of the biggest hills to stay with traffic. Don't get me wrong, its no dog and will cruse all day at 75. Will also accelerate to 80+ on those same hills on 3rd if I pushed it. But it does slow to about 50-55 on those long steep hills if I don't put my foot in it.. CW

I found out about this to early...seems old hat... I am siked as well, been a fan for some time!! http://ironmanmovie.marvel.com/ CW

This might be a good friend of mine selling this. If his name is Bob and his ol'lady Liza, It is him!! Good people!! www.baystateoffroad.com Pat is correct, It is stronger and that covers everything. But it sounds like your looking for actual reasons for or to justify this swap. If your plan includes bigger rubber than say 31" this is a very good idea. If your plan includes towing, this is a very good idea. If your plan is off-road, this is a very good idea. You get a negligible stronger housing. But the 44 "guts" are bigger and stronger. For instance, it has a bigger ring gear, bigger bearings, axle shaft's and brakes. After market stuff is readily available and its parts are cheaper and likely "in stock". Don't forget the bragging factor... :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

Personally, I would stay with 2.25" all the way back. Like already mentioned, larger diameter exhausts can KILL lo end torque and that is counter productive to what Jeeps are used for. CW

Well..... You may find it usefull to back off on the self adjusters just a tad......... :roll: As long as they haven't worn them selves into the drums, once backed off. Yes they will just pull off. Nothing but the rim bolted on holds them in place. CW