CWLONGSHOT

Thanks alot for all the well wishes guys. It helps. I cannot spend much time on the puter as I have to sit upright to do so. That puts pressure on the incision in my groin.. :eek: not good. So I only check in 2-3 times a day. (When the boss is not watching.) Yes big changes for me.... CW

Hey guys, I have been absent for this week, if you hadn't noticed. I spent the week in the hospital. Tuesday I had a heart attack while at work. Just 42 FREAKIN' years old and I was having a heart attack!!!! I am a guy after all, so of coarse I didn't want to admit or succumb to the facts and didn't do anything at the first signs. Overall crappy feeling with tightness in the chest and sore arms, like you worked out hard the day before, but hadn't. That passed with about 2 hrs of just a bit of a crappy feeling. (Hi blood pressure). Just aft lunch, the feeling was back with a vengeance followed by nausea. I found a nurse and my BP 180/100 and off to the ER I went. Once there, my BP only shot up a bit, but my left arm alone now was "dead feeling" and my chest now officially hurt. Blood work, EKG all showed OK... Another BP said different, 195/114 ! Doc, comes in about 10 that night and says, CW, you had a mild heart attack. Rush me over to ICU followed by more blood and IV NITRO.... WOW... instant head ache and blood thinners!! More EKG's, more needles, IV's and X-Rays, then more blood.. OH and rest. Yea right, rest, how do you do that with a pounding head and a nurse poking and proding you every couple minutes? Spend the night there... "resting". In the AM I'm off to another hospital for a procedure. They go in thru your groin, into the femoral artery. Up to your heart valves, where they inject a die to "see" how things are working and where the blockage is. Then fix it while they are in there, no additional, surgery. (If they do there job right) They found a blood clot almost completely blocking one artery and about 60% in another. There are only three and that one is the important one, it was clear. Of coarse they are all important, but if that clear one was blocked that would have likely killed me. Its the major one that feeds the heart. (I've only just had a crash coarse here and don't know names and how stuff works.) They put in one stent, where the complete blockage was. That other, will be dealt with, with diet, drugs and exercise. I laid in the hospital for two days while they checked and adjusted my meds and watched my incision. After all it was in my femoral artery, if I started to bleed badly, I could be dead before they called for a code blue!! Its a major artery. I survived and got home early, last night. I'm OK and will have to adjust to a new way of life, but will survive. Just thought my cyber buds would like to know. CW

Boy, If we only had a buck for everytime that question was asked... :no: :shake: :shake: :eek: 288 hits on "tire size" search.php?keywords=tire+size&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search 14 for "largest tire" search.php?keywords=largest+tire&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search YUP, the search is still working ..... :yes: :shake: :rotf: :doh: CW

Three letters... P.O.S. CW

If your really sold on long arms, you OWE IT TIO YUORSELF to do it right. You would be foolish not to look at all of whats out there. CLAYTON makes a bullet proof PROVEN setup. Give them a look and call, they will treat you right and tell it to you straight. http://www.claytonoffroad.com/ CW

UPDATE: Today on the freeway, 65mph was 2200RPMs traveling moderately, no accelloration on flat level ground. :D CW

I'm running 4:56's a AW4 and 33" tars. I really like to combo. Plenty of power and good economy. I haven't driven on the highway lately so don't remember the RPM's @ 60. But it shifts into OD @ 42-43MPH and 1500RPMs just driving normally around town. CW

LOOK here.... :shake: :shake: search.php?keywords=DEATH+WOBBLE&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search Welcome to the site!! Everyone with a Jeep has either herd of this or experienced it. We have many many threads written on it. I did a search and the link I have posted pulls up lots of information. Sit back and read read read. :D CW

Good luck with that.... nice to dream. Just be happy in the knoledge you where not hurt badly. If you had been, THEN you would have been a WORLD of SHEIT!!! Jack up the frame and pry that shackle back down and see what you have. (BE CAREFULL!!! Its going to have a bit of force behind it if its not bent to badly!) Get a tape measure and start measuring one side to the other. Try to assess just how badly things are bent. CW

More good advice!! Thats what I would do too. Check everything assume NOTHING!!! Mvusse also makes a gfood point. Those "pins" at the top are known noise makers. First thing I thought of was you missd tightening something.... CW

Do I have pictures... Well yess sirEE I do!! Just click the link in my signature!! :yes: :yes: :yes: :shake: CW

Most places two some three. I also did NOT paint in the bed, taht got duplicolor bed lighner. Suprisingly its holding up very well.... I didnt expect it to, it was just to "look" good for a jeep show I was in. CW

The aussie is what I will suggest for you. Yup, its a lunchbox!! I prefer the rear first, but if you want the front alone is fine. In the front, there are NO ILL EFFECTS and as a matter of fact, sans the clicking in turns, you will not know its even there!! (In 2WD) In 4WD its a locker and saddled with all the good and the bad of driving a vehicle with a locked front axle. Lockers are excellent "loside locaters" The tires spin, break free and the axle slides to the lo side of the road. On dry pavement, they will pull you and not like to turn when under power. I have one now and ran it on the street for some time, no problems. Its an EXCELLENT product. Its a refinement/improvement over all other lunchboxes. The owner Bill, actually worked for the others and was invilved with the design and manufacturer of the others. The Aussie does not carry the insane 31" tire limitations and as long as you install as per directions its warrented even if you do it your self!!! I would stay away from all the electric lockers. I have two ECTIDs and although they work fine and do exactly what I need. the problems I has where atrocious and not something I would want anyone to have to deal with. Especially someone on a budget. The ARB is excellent, but also expensive. the Detroit locker is excellent but NOT great for the front. It is also harsh. The OX is another good one but also a bit costly. BEST BET for a street truck that goea off road is TRU-TRKs at both ends. VERY streetable and EXCELLENT traction all the time. BUT its a full carrier locker so not something most home mechanics can do. My brother in law is going that rout as we speak!! Christmas and his birthday was good to him!!! CW Good luck, CW

That will depend on the number of coats and how the paint covers... I did mine with 15 IIRC.... CW

Slid down a hill, had to get off the brakes to steer.... Up the curb, across a culvert and up into the woods to stop. All because some idiot pulled infront of mee and stopped!!! he was leaning over the seat getting something from the back seat as I slid past!!! This was 05:30 this AM, he opologised and said he didnt think anyone would be on the road.... As I said, IDIOT!! NO damage, couple touchy moments and some white knuckles, but no damage. Even the drawers stayed clean!! :D :D The guy asked if I wanted him to call a wrecker to pull me out of the woods. I said why, got in the MJ and backed right out. He just stood there with a dumb look on his face. Guess the guy never owned a jeep before!!! :eek: :D CW

Your correct, YOU didnt say it... Hornbrod did!! :eek: :D It was just a little rib at him. All in fun........ The the best of my knoledge and for our purposes here, there where two different AMC20's. Both ahd same dimentions, but different housings and axle shafts. As you eluded one was a two pices like the CJ's had and the other was a solid as conventionel axles are. It was put in a couple cars, lite trucks, and Jeeps. Below is a copy paste from a JEEPTECH article: http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/amc20.html All AMC 20s have a 8 7/8" R&P and use a 29 spline shafts. The AMC 20 R&P is 3/8" bigger than the Dana 44, but it uses smaller shafts, smaller axle tubes, and the CJ version comes with weaker two piece shafts. The AMC20 uses a 29 spline shaft where as the later Dana 44 uses a 30 spline shaft. The AMC 20 housing tends to flex a lot which can cause breakage. This can be remedied by welding the tubes and/or adding gussets. The reason the AMC 20 flexes more than the Dana 44 is the shorter differential housing and smaller axle tubes. It's other flaw is the CJ version uses the two piece axle made up of a hub and a shaft. The hub end tends to break off under load which has created the market for one piece AMC 20 axle shafts. Unfortunately, the shafts are expensive ($350+ USD) and in some cases a special bearing must be used. Identifying the gear ratio of an AMC 20 is a bit tricky. Dana axles normally have a tag on the left of the diff cover with the gear ratio at the time of build. The AMC axles have a code that has to be looked up in a table. The code is stamped on the housing boss to the left of the diff cover right near the axle tube. Good part about the stamp is it tends to stay readable longer than the tag, but you have to know the code. Since there are conflicts between what a code means for a narrow track and what it means for a wide track, don't count solely on the code to identify an axle. Bring a tape measure or know the source of the part. Specs Narrow Track AMC 20 Code Gear Ratio Diff Type AA 2.73 Open DD 2.73 Trac-Lok BB 3.31 Open CC 3.31 Trac-Lok A 3.54 Open N 3.54 Trac-Lok GG 3.73 Open Q 3.73 Trac-Lok L 4.10 Open M 4.10 Trac-Lok Wide Track AMC 20 Code Gear Ratio Diff Type D 2.73 Open DD 2.73 Trac-Lok B 3.31 Open BB 3.31 Trac-Lok A 3.54 Open AA 3.54 Trac-Lok H 3.73 Open HH 3.73 Trac-Lok C 4.10 Open CC 4.10 Trac-Lok The Trac-Lok is a limited slip differential. You may have to scrape away a lot of mud, paint, and rust to uncover the code. If you can't find the code on the rear, check the tag on the front axle. Both axles should be geared the same. The R&P ratio ranges supported by the carriers are 2.73 and 3.31-5.13. The 5.13 gear ratio is not available for the Dana 30 though, so it is rare to see it. 4.56s are the lowest common ratio between the Dana 30 and AMC 20. 5.13s are available for the Dana 44. CJ AMC 20 The CJs used two versions of the AMC 20, the narrow track from '76-'81 and the wide track from '82-'86. Both versions use keyed, two piece shaft/hub design and 5 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern. Supplies of AMC 20s were exhausted in 1986 and some Dana 44s were used instead in the last of the CJ-7s. From 1976-1978 a larger 11x2" drum brakes was used on the AMC 20. After 1978, a 10x1.75" drum was used. SJ AMC 20 The Wagoneer and full size Cherokee also used a narrow and wide track version of the AMC 20. Both SJ versions used once piece shafts and 6 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern. Since the length and bolt pattern is different from the CJ version, the SJ shafts are not compatible without resplining and redrilling. I've never heard of anyone going to the trouble. Model/Version Spring Pads Wheel to Wheel Years AMC 20/CJ Narrow Track 36" 50.5" '76-'81 AMC 20/CJ Wide Track 36" 54.5" '82-'86 AMC 20/SJ Narrow Track AMC 20/SJ Wide Track CW

The wiper controls are on the "stalk" on the colum. Its not the most durasble thing going, I had to replace mine and the one on the XJ I gave my pop. CW

There is no wide or narrow track widths on XJ/MJ's!! :shake: Thats a CJ/FSJ thing.. get your acronyms right soldier!! :rotf: :rotf: :doh: :yes: :brows: They are all 60" WMS-WMS!! CW

Do you have imtermitent wipers? IOf so the "stalk" on the collum could be your problem... CW

Like I tell my wife. (She is a lead foot) If you can go 60+ you DO NOT NEED 4WD!!! I do not allow driving above 45 in 4WD in my vehicles. YES, you can ahift on the fly. But only into 4HI. I like to only do so at lo speeds and even then I let off the throttle. Disengageing is exactly the same, let off the throttle, sharply push it out and into 2WD. As usual, Geonovast has given good advice. Check all those fluids and the front CAD too!! CW

Dude, relax. Take a breath sit down and listen. The comments where made in an effort to HELP you from FURTHER PROBLEMS!!! Pat may have come off a bit harsh, but Some times a different tact is necessary to get someones attention. Pat has been there and done that and now knows and speaks from experience, cobbled together crap causes more problems than it fixes. We ARE nice, that's why we commented and offered help. If I didn't care I would just stand here and laugh and point.. "Look at what this idiot tried to do he he he eh ha aha ha" That's not what happened. Whats happening here is we are growing up. Realizing that everything worth doing is worth doing right... ONCE the first time. It leaves more time for really fun stuff like WHEELING or having a beer with a bud!! Like Eagle told you, cobbling something together with junk left over that's not broken, Just to get that offroad-only jeep back on the street, is FAR different then laying out a starting system that uses a push button start. CW

I am going to guess you have some "house" guests. More specfically MICE!! They LOVE vehicles parked in the woods and likely shewed thru or partially thru some wires... Have fun finding where they did that!! Sorry man, I have seen it many times before... CW

it's hillbilly when you break the column to get it done. the switch is not the ghetto part, it's the manner in which it's done. and, IDK if you've noticed, but the truck I've currently got is NOT a street truck. hell, I haven't even taken it to the paint booth...and it will probably stay that way. one is street, one is wheeling, and both are clean, with everything set properly and modified in a professional manner. hack jobs are just that, and a complete waste of time. they are the reason I get these trucks so cheap when the improvised hack jobs fail, and the PO gives up, lets it rot, and the vehicle ends up in such bad repair I have no choice but to scrap it. booty fab is the precursor to a junk vehicle, or injured people. I completely agree with Pat on this one!! There is an old saying: NEVER time to do it right... but there ALWAYS seems to be time to do it all OVER! Think about it, do it right the FIRST TIME and move on. don't judge a book by its cover, There are many many jeep owners that take the time to keep there vehicles clean and in good working order. Dents and wrinckled sheetmetal, do not make for a better driver. Slow as you can fast as you have to and tread lightly are the ways to drive offroad. Forget about drive it like you stole it, thats just plain stupid. I'm not taklin about spinning arround a mud pit, thats fun. I am talking about point and shoot, pedal to the floor, to hell with the consiquences but I'll get to the top, kinda attitude. CW

Smart man with good advice!! :D :yes: DO NOT RUN A SPOOL in the front on the street! (Welding is in effect the same this as having a spool) I have run a aussie for years in the front and its all but uinvisable. Even in corners mine is fairly quiet, with the raido on you don't even hear it. With the top off yes you can hear it, but its never a problem. CW

I would advise against chopping up anything... that lift has problems, the buckets worked FINE BEFORE the lift, the lift should be made to work WITH thos e buckets OR explicitly tell you you have to alter them... You bought and paid for thsi product, the manufacturer has an obligation to provide to you what you bought. Give them a chance to make this right. CW