CWLONGSHOT

I just spent about 20 Min's writing a long and informative post only to have it again lost as the site didn't keep me logged on to register the post.... :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Suffice it to say, I know firearms better than I know Comanches. Buy the Remington and forget the imposters.. CW

This is the third or fourth time I have written a post in response to another only to find out I have been bumped off and my post lost!! WTF!!! Its quite disturbing to think, write, proof read and spell check a post, only to have the whole flipping thing lost...just like that... Its enough to keep me from posting at all. I am on at least three other sites, all with thousands of posts, this is the only one that bumps me off like this..... Am I the only one with this problem??? Thanks for allowing the vent.... CW

Yea.. then there is the sway bar brackets.. forgot dem.... :( :( The angle advantage is minimal with this setup. I would not make or break it for me. Extra clearance, now that is worth something! CW

OTK, just gets you a bit more clearance at the tie rod. With its overall design there is no significant advantage of better angles. Something to consider... Your rims, there is less room for the TRE's with a OTK setup. So more BS may be required for it to fit. IMHO, its up to you based on your wheeling. Have you wasted any tie rods? The only difference in the JCR kit is the end link on the pass side. UTK is std right hand drive part and OTK uses a left hand drive unit. I also don't think its any harder to do either, both need to be reamed. FWIW, both of mine are UTK setups and I have no problems with them. CW

A quick Internet search revealed... http://www.drivetrainoutlet.com/U_Joint ... r_D44.html http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/spicer-57 ... -3869.html http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p477_5_ ... _join.html http://www.offroadtoystore.com/Merchant ... DanaSpicer CW

Your correct, if your prepping for a paint job... But for my preping it before a hurculiner install.. so scratches are like war wounds...not a problem at all!! :yes: :eek: :D CW

The OEM TRE's are part of the inherent weakness of the factory setup. IMHO, don't try to recreate the wheel here. Either buy a complete setup, ( I recommend the JCR kit) or head to the local pick and pull and get yourself a FACTORY ZJ setup. This is beefier and an upgrade over the factory XJ/MJ parts. Something else to know. Once you get to 3.5-4" your pushing the "range" or working limits of the factory steering set up. Over that and its a MUST do. CW

I use this when installing/removing control arms from the axle. But the wrench is on the axle tube.(A much bigger part.) Be careful if you try this as you will be able to exert enough force to twist the tie-rod. That much force should not be required. Spray, brush with wire wheel/wire brush and wait. Try again later after the penetrating oil has had a chance to work. You can try heat and cold to shock it but be careful not to go too far as you will temper the steel and it could become too soft. Avoid "cherry red" when heating. CW

I also did it this way, only I used "scotch brite" pads instead of the steel wool!! GREAT MINDS think alike!! :yes: :shake: :rotf: :rotf: CW

Because if you hit the threads with a hammer, you won't be able to put the nut back on. Just give it a few good hits like this: EXACTLY!! Something else that's works great. look at the pic showing where to strike the knuckle with the hammer. Now go get an additional hammer. Pretend your going to strike the two hammer faces together, only put the knuckle between them and hammer away. It should only take 4-5 good solid strikes and that TRE will "pop" right out. I gotta tell you thou, I don't see how your going to get any more leverage to turn the tie rod than with the TRE's attached to the knuckles. Spray them down really good using a GOOD penetrating oil. NOT WD-40, that is NOT a penetrating oil. Get PB-Blaster, Kroil, Break free , Freeze-off or something like recommended @ the parts store should suffice. Now get a stilson /monkey wrench of appropriate size. I haven't seen one yet that will not succumb to this kind of adjustment. Yes I have done this one or two times. :D :shake: :shake: CW Good luck, CW

I remember beer......... :headpop: :headpop: :headpop:

Excellent thought and tips, THANK YOU!!!! Yes the pass side is the worst. Cause... I think just New England winters and salt on the roads...... IMHO, it was exacerbated with time and debris in the frame rails. The debris holds moisture, accelerating the rust. It was obviously rusted from the inside out. Unsure how I could stop or even slow whats there now, out of reach inside the frame. Lets keep this brain storming going... good stuff!!! CW

Well, I have been feeling great and we have some nice weather SO... I pulled out the MJ and climbed under.... Then with a bit of poking and some die grinder work.... Overall, pretty bad, but now as bad as I thought it world be. All day I was doodling "truggy" rear frames...... Any all suggestions welcome..... CW

I agree with all posts.. Save the brain cells, just buy a set of TJ axles. IMHO, 80-100 bucks for as is shafts out of a used D30 axle. 150 for one with new (er) replaced UJoints. CW

Your are correct, YJ ALL came with a D30 in the front and a D35 out back mounted on leaf springs...... Giffer, If you do have one out of a YJ the PO put it in, not the factory... CW

That's what I am saying, yes on the axle seals, but these "O" Rings are news to me... I have been wrong before and for sure will again. Like I have said a thousand times...you learn something new everyday. :D CW

I was not aware that there was such a thing.... The tubes are a press fit into the housing. Are yours leaking??? CW

I completely agree!!! My 4:10's where not my first choice... They just made the most "monetary" sense. CW

I wish you where closer.. I could fix you right up! I have three 2core radiators in the shed!! :D CW

Pat, AWESOME WORK fabbing that bumper!!!!!!!!! I am VERY VERY impressed, GREAT work!!! The interior work looks great as well!!! After I fix up my frame problems, I will also be working on my rear side protection as well.... CW

OH MY GAWD... You have 4:56's, 33" tires, a 4:1, all behind a AUTO !?!?!?!?!? How do you stop that thing?????? The 4:1 was never recommended behind an auto, with its variable ratio aspect. That's what the 3.8 or 3.0:1 is for... :eek: :eek: Its for CRAWLING guys. If your moving along at anything above a trot its NOT what you need. If your going fast enough for it to be whining, shift into 4hi. Because of the TJ's short wheel base and excellent traction from the locker, I find that even 4WD is rarely needed sans for the bolder fields and ledges. So your right, the 2WD lo sure is handi!! CW

The turn signals are always the brighter filament and almost always the same as the brakes. CW

I have a pair from JCWhitney. They had a sale some time back and I got them both delivered for about $200. They dropped right in... :shake: :yes: :eek: :D Full write up is in my build thread.. CW

IIRC, both light with marker/tail lites and both lite with the brakes. Smaller filament is tail/marker and brighter of the two is the stop filament. CW

I have one in my TJ and wouldn't be with out it for the rocks. I am only running 4:10s and 35s. If I upgraded the front axle again I'd have gone much lower, say in the 5's. But the hi-pinion 30 is maxed at 4;88s but that makes for a mighty small pinion IMHO, so 4:56 is about as lo as I would go. My 8-8 came with 4:10's so the re gear was cheaper only having to do one axle..... I also sprung for the 2WD lo, I use it quite a bit in the TJ , but don't think I would in the MJ. IMHO, if you running the rocks and the price is right go for it. if your in the mud, you will never use it.. CW