CWLONGSHOT

I don't know how, but I am sure you can test the temp sender in the bottom of the rad can be checked. Also, have you checked fuses? Something else, don't trust the gauge to be accurate. I mean even thou it may read 220 it may only be 205 or something lower, before the fan gets the "juice" to turn on.... CW

No experience with those seats but a fabricated mounts for sparco seats. Took some inginuity but they work great. Those seats look awesome btw :thumbsup: How much? The corbeau's run about 275-300 a piece last time I checked, the only reason I'm asking this is because i'm sort of a big guy 6'3 300, I don't want it to be a tight fit. Corbeau is your only option then, as these seats are bought based on your waist diameter. They are the only ones offering "plus" sized seats. Most makers stop seats @ 36-38" diameter waist sizes. I had a 38" waist when I purchased my Cordeau SS seats. These fit in the TJ, but not with allot of extra room. They touch the door AND the center console. No offence, but seats large enough to fit you, likely will not even fit in a MJ, width wise. CW

A "stick" or rather ARC welder uses welding rods clad in a coating that when burned creates an "atmosphere" to promote better stronger welds. NO other gas is used with this process. I suppose aluminum could be welded, altho I have not herd of welding it with a ARC welder. A MiG welder can use EITHER flux core wire, which produces this same "atmosphere" from the flux-core. Solid core wire is just that SOLID WIRE and needs the external shielding gas supplied from the tank to create proper welds. Yes aluminum can be welded, but doing so is "problematic" at best. As has been repeatedly suggested to you, LEAVE IT TO THE EXPERTS. Good luck, CW Just go buy the best 220V MiG you can afford and leave your worries behind...

I have Corbeau's in my TJ and a set of racing seats in the MJ. I made the bases for both, not a hard job, with a bit of ingenuity. The MJ seat build is in my build thread... CW

Something else to consider about wheel spacers... To the nest of my knowledge, they are NOT D.O.T. approved for on road use. Meaning if something where to happen and you had an accident associated with these spacers, your @$$ would be OWNED by whom ever got hurt... To my mind, its really silly, because for about the same cost, you could by a set of rims with more back spacing and be completely LEGAL!!! Just some food for thought. CW.

I have a nice 2wd MJ with a 350 sitting somewhere in the back of my mind..... Nice project!! I'll be watching, please keep us posted!! CW

When I decided I needed new leafs, I ordered a set from JCWhitney.. a couple months later... still did not have my springs. I did have plenty of promises... I herd about and ordered a set from Rusty's. About a week later ONE leaf showed up... Rusty's excellent customer service said they shipped out TWO. I explained that I only received one. They said they would ship out a replacement. Another week later, i FINEALLY has a set of Rusty's 4" leafs. The main leaf snapped in half about a year later... :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: I replaced them with a set from Motion off-road. I am happy with these. CW

Can you recore the noise? Diaginosing it simply with your explination will be quite difficult. Its not a noise I have herd form mine... CW

I used the duplicator stuff last year for a quick good looking finish for our jeep show. I didn't really expect it to stand up very long. It had begun to peel off from very lite use and short time. It could be partially from prep. I didn't go crazy sanding, but I did do a good clean beforehand. If I did this myself again, I would spend more time on the prep and use Herculiner. CW

There are many online sources for picture ID help. http://www.coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-axle- ... -chart.htm http://thejeep.com/shop/information.php?info_id=7 As for the splines in the 8.25, buy one from a 1997 XJ and you can be fairly certain it will be the 29Spl. The only ways to know for sure is from axle ID numbers or actually removing covers and counting splines. CW

I agree with Eagle. The D44 from an XJ or easier to find a 97+ 8.25 cry-co are my top choices. For gearing, I would suggest 4:56 but 4:10 will also work. CW

GOOD, your in luck!! the CPS is part of the jeeps computer system!!! Ha ha :rotfl2: :yes: :D http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl637i.htm http://autorepair.about.com/library/ill ... 860lib.htm

Well, before seeing your clip, my first thought was also the CPS. I still feel that could be it, altho it usually works or it does not. USUALLY its not an intermittent problem. I would test the pressure at the fuel rail and see what you have. A bad fuel pump can do strange things like this. Its not a very hard job!! I have done it three times on my MJ alone!! (I keep getting bad units!) CW

Well, I am talking to you from Connecticut. No public wheeling available here, the one place we did have, closed up some three years back. But our neighbors to the north and east have ample land available to explore!! CW

Dude you don't know what your talking about! Flux core is super easy to weld with. just because you can't weld with flux don't discourage people.........I have had the best luck with flux core....Very pretty welds of of a miller 220v flux core, but You can def tell the quality of the welder by the welds. Don't Be cheap A welder is an investment that can make you $$$$$$ :brows: :brows: If you know how to use it properly. You can penetrate just as deep with solid core wire if you adjust your welder right..........In fact I think flux core is far more forgiving than solid core plus gas is a pain in the @$$ when you run out in the middle of a project....... :yes: In freek88's defence, you did dis flux-core pretty bad. Any novice reading your post would surmise, flux core was bad stuff and should stay away. Well, simply stated, its not bad or hard to use. It produces as good welds as any other method and actually is preferred in some instances. Its also not the first negative comment against flux core in this thread. Rjustham, As always, on line when a question is asked on a forum, you get lots of answers, some good answers from first hand experiences. . But all too ofter, you get miss-information and conjecture. You know someone posts posts about this or that, he has a brother, who works with a guy who once read this or that sux... :shake: :fs1: :no: CW

A week or so ago, I read a great write up on this hinge repair!! IIRC its on here, maybe on NAXJA, but petty sure its here. I don't have time to look for it now, but if you search I'm sure you can find it. the author cut out a small portion of the sheet-metal and replaced it with a larger patch panel that fit in that hole and bolted to a larger area providing much needed strength to this problem area. nice write up!! CW

Pat, Don't be so down on flux core wire. It can get a bad rap cause its what them cheap cheap 100-150$ junk MiG machines use. Just like all MiG, with little practice the novice can do some nice welds! Its now as quite as easy and no where near as clean as gas W/ solid core wire, but it produces nice welds. As pointed out, the slag left is part of the shielding process. Its like opening a present, you done see the purdy weld, untill you scrub it a bit with a wire brush. Yes it must be cleaned, but so does the slag from a ARC/stick. I know, you know these are not junk... I do agree with you though on the aluminum. Its best left to someone with proper equipment and experience. Here is a couple close-ups of a couple welds from my shock mounts. This is 1/4" thick "C" Channel, welded to 1/8" box steel. In the first pic you see the front side. The discolored steel is my welds from the back burning thru to the front. Second pic, is the weld on the back. All of these welds where done with my Lil 115V Hobart, Flux core .030 wire, on my back, upside down in the driveway. Like I said, I am no expert with a welder. But I think there are good, well penetrating welds. CW

Thanks man, but I am all set with these parts. Another member came thru with them. I got them yesterday and hopefully wil have them ready for install this weekend. I found my gas leakage is from the plate where the hoses attach. Its the same piece that holds the fuel pump. I decided to try to fix it with some of that epoxy junk that you need together and plaster on. Didn't work so well..... Then, I started my rear bumper build. I am going to make the bumper come around the sides of the bed and reattach to the frame forward, just behind the rear tires. I was going to use the same 4" water pipe I used for the bumper itself. But decided against it and will be using 2x4x.125 stock and mount it at a bias. So far I just cut the bed sides.. I also made up better wires for my battery cut off. Cut the cable to length. Cut and push on some heat shrink tubing and finally the crimp on lug. I soldered the crimp on connection. After it cools, push the shrink tubing over the bare wires. Heat the shrink tubing for a water tite, sealed wire. CW OH.. be sure you tie your wires up and away from your alternator fan.. or you will be remaking that wire you just made... :headpop: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: :headpop: Oh yes I did!!! Here is the replacements...

In this case, I would just buy the best factory replacement the parts store had. Most likely a Walker system. CW

Thank you, but I am FAR from an expert!! Guys like Dirty have likely forgotten more than I know about welding. His advice is sound and comes from many years of experience. I have gotten "proficient" with mine. I like what I get with flux core wire and near 1/4" steel I am welding. My welds look great, penetrate well and are strong. The few times I needed to grind thru them proved extremely difficult. The biggest burden I see with a 220V welder is having the electric run from your panel to the garage. No doubt its a more sensible choice. I suggested the 115V simply based on the majority of your listed tasks. Leave the perches for a bigger machine and a good 115V will suit your requirements. For the perches, you will need a bigger machine than a 115V MiG. I have welded one with my old Snap on but that was a bigger 115V. My little 140Handler has tacked one set well enough to drive the truck to a stick machine. Currently I have both a big 220V Lincoln stick as well as the Hobart 140Handler. So for me, a 115V MiG makes good sence. CW

MiG will do aluminum, but its not easy. the wire doesn't feed well cause its so soft. (Its alum too) You need some reading and research on brands. I bought a new one last year when my second hand Snap-on welder gave up the ghost. I chose a 115V Hobart and LOVE it. With .030 and .035 flux core wire I easily weld 1/4" steel. Solid core .030 (with gas) makes for some very nice welder, but lacks the penetration power of the flux core. Sounds to my like a 115 would fit your needs. A 220V will do more and get you a better duty cycle, but at a higher initial cost and the need for special wiring. (Most garages done have a 30 amp 220V plug) It would also only really be better with the thicker steels, no advantage on the sheet-metal work. IIRC, I got my Hobart 140Handler for $480 shipped to my door W/a cart. CW

Nice job!! Don't lockers make an enormous difference?!?! I remember when I first wheeled with them, WOW what a difference!!! CW

Most of us have built our own. Using our muffler of choice and a stock tail pipe. In my case, I have no tail pipe over the axle. mine exits in front of the rear wheel, but in the wheel well. Cherry bomb glass packs are a favorite, they are not too loud when new if the stock cat is kept. They are WAY durable!! CW

Pat, Good eye!! Normally I would agree. But with stump grinders, there is allot of weight. The majority of there it is in that big grinding wheel. So the axle is right at the rear. Total machine weight is about 1000lbs. This axle placement is at 1/3 rear, so it will leave a bit more tongue weight in normal use, but still keep some on when the stump grinder is on. Its going to be a grinder trailer, more than not. LOL, No expanded metal!!! :D Your right, that stuff will not be strong enough for the grinder. CW

I never herd this before!! I use allot of dielectric grease on all connections. CW