CWLONGSHOT

Throw a tack weld on the pipe. Every one I have ever done has loosened up with time. But never after a couple tack welds!!

There are many many small parts you will need, this is why I suggest a COMPLETE 4WD DONOR vehicle. Axle ratios are on a steel tag on ot near the diff cover. If thats rusted away you can trun the axle and count revolutions OR pull the diff cover and count the gear teeth. CW

To 4WD you mean? Best way to do it is to acquire a 4WD and park it next to your jeep. everything is a bolt on/in. A fair amount of parts and sans major rust not overly hard job. FUN PROJECT!!! One thing though, be sure of the axle ratios. your donor should have same ratio as your jeep OR have better ratio and use both front and rear axles. CW

Any luck here? Did the pics help? CW

GOOD JOB!!!!

I didn't read the post link you attached... As fort costs, I agree these prices are expensive based on whats available here. Around here $500 is a good price for a clean D44 with at least 3:55's. $300 for either the 8.25 w/29 splines 8.8 with discs and 31 splines. I agree with Hawk, the only way this would be OK was if they where properly geared and completely bolt in to your rig. Somekind of traction device like a factory LS as well. CW

I took you guys at your word already, :yes: but thanks for the double check!!! :cheers: CW

IMHO, all three are good axles. Each has its pluses and minus. I have all three, I have wheeled, abused and run all three of these axles. My top choice is the D44, but this is not one of your options or what this topic is about. I cannot tell if what you have in the 8.25 is a 29spline or not. Mvusse seems to know its only 27 spline, unsure how... Any how the 8.25 is a very good, strong axle and at its best with 29 Spline shafts. Its case is every-bit as strong as a D44's. Its two biggest negatives are a limited selection of after market traction devices and ratios limited to 4:56. Brakes are good and discs are available. Its the correct width for our Jeeps. The 8.8 is also a stout axle, likely the strongest CASE of the three. The 8.8 also has a version with 29spline shafts, 31spline shafts are what everyone wants as they are stronger. Its widely available with discs and also desirable 4:10 gears. Its width is 5/8" on EACH side narrower. Its case, while plenty strong is FREAKING HUGE!! A D60 doesn't loose any ground clearance to one. SO, as long as the 8.25 is a 29spl and gearing was not needed any lower than 4:45's. It would boil down to cost. I'd buy the cheaper one. CW

I cut my steel for the frame repairs!! CW

OOH you KNOW IT!!!! I can't sleep at night for not being able to work on it!!!! I got my new tank stripped and first coat of POR15 in it. I also got my patch panels all cut and ready for tomorrow's welding. I will mark and paint under the repair panels before welding them in. CW

WELCOME!!! As mentioned gearing, is top priority ESP with a 4 cyl and 35's!! Also you cannot even get the gear ratios you would need in your current axles!!! IMHO, Just throw in a couple 2 inch spacers out front. A taller shackle and or a LONG add-a-leaf along with longer shocks and a nice set of 31" tires. Then enjoy your truck. Re-gearing would still benefit, but will be drivable as is. CW

GREAT TIPS!! Thanks for posting!!! Basically same as if your using Hurculiner!!! Great stuff, but a PIA to apply! I'll be under the MJ Saturday applying mine! :shake: :eek: :D CW

Sorry to hear about your problems w. Tom Woods CW. First complaint I've heard about him on any forum. I'm coming up on three years using his drive-shaft, and have had zero problems. BUT I don't offroad it and only have a 3" lift, so I don't have sever driveline angles, especially w. the long bed. :D I don't know what your angles are or the height of your lift is, but your pinion angles must be pretty extreme. Need a SYE maybe? Oh, and I like your new avatar. :cheers: Thx man. That's my sarcasm, peeking threw. :D My TJ lift is 5", my angles are no way severe, been running a SYe since first shaft. Its a must do with a 20" drive shaft!!! I'm sure you can surmise, I take care of my stuff and build it right. Aft all, the first shaft went 20,000 miles. No appreciable changes between first and now. What kind of guaranty does he offer? How many countless thousand upon thousand TJs out there running the same freaking setup? CW

I just bought a quart yesterday. My parts store was able to get it for me in a day... $45 a can BTW. I have read many many good reports, but I haven't used it yet. I have used and do very much like RUST BULLET. But can only get it on lane and didn't want to wait the week for the delivery. As I have said many times before, I have more money than patience.... CW

Factory TJ springs will lower the front 1-1.5" IIRC.... CW

OK, thanks guys!! I have an experimental mount installed and will try it and see if my "issues" go away. (Once its back on the road.) I think its a tad too long now, I would also like to be more up on the tube, but this is only a test mount to see of my suspension issues subside. CW

$350 is way too much. I needed a new drive shaft on my 91 LWB because the outer rubber sheath on the OEM shaft was deteriorated and it couldn't be balanced. Called Tom Woods here: http://www.4xshaft.com and he built me a 3" custom shaft w. new u-joints shipped to my door for a bit over $200 . The man does excellent work and stands behind his product. I have a Tom Woods shaft in my TJ. I opted for the gold seal joints for a LIFETIME REPLACEMENT GAURNTEE. The first one lasted 3 years and about 20,000 miles and cost me $370. I thought it should have lasted longer, but 20,000 on an off-road vehicle is not awful. So I had Tom rebuild it. Its replacement was the same shaft rebuilt for an additional 300. It lasted two years and almost 1200 miles. I complained and was told my angles where too steep. I supplied pictures and vehicle stats. Ford 8.8 rear axle, S4T Teraflex lift, 35" tires and a 33 Engineering flat belly skid plate. I was at fault, (NOT) and needed a new centering ball and the upgraded forged carrier as well as replacement joints. ALL at MY cost of $300. SO much for the lifetime guarantee. Total so far, $670. That was 2005, and my Jeep became off-road only. I wheeled it ONCE @ Paragon. It was trailered there and back. I drove it almost 400 miles over the next 3 years. Mid 2008, it began clicking again. I called Tom, explained the problems and my concerns. He said ship it to him and he would correct the problem. He did, it required ANOTHER rebuild, ANOTHER centering ball and ANOTHER $300. I strongle complained. I explained my case, again supplied pictures and had a known distributor and good friend of mine pleade my case. No difference, it was too steep an angle and it was my problem. Total $970 for ONE FLIPPING drive shaft. I WILL NEVER BUY A TOM WOODS SHAFT AGAIN!!! CW

I remounted my rear shocks!!! Almost straight up and down. :D :D Cleaned my new gas tank. Its ready for a coat of POR 15!! Picked up the balance of the steel needed to finish the frame fix!!! Absolutely lucked into a piece of custom bent "U" channel steel. Its .125 thick and will fit around the bottom of my frame and go 1" up the sides of the new steel. Should be great, strong finished product. Pics in my build thread later... CW

Just to be clear.. your saying it is OK to mount EITHER way. ALSO, I have 5100 shocks out back...... man it SUX to forget stuff!!! CW

Looks GREAT!! I also like the Waggoneer nose!! CW

I agree!!! Time for an UPGRADE!!! CW

I made my patch panels for the MJ frame and took off my rear shocks. I am altering the mount so I don't have to tip them at such a steep angle. (They work better straighter.) CW

Thanks guys!! I'm just a portion of my former self... I'm down 55# and I cut my whole cholesterol to half of what it was before the heart attack!!! I feel great and the doc is ecstatic at my "numbers" and weight loss. I'm ecstatic about turning wrenches on my Jeeps!! Between you guys and me, I don't sleep at night thinking about the next nights agenda!!!! I'm like a Lil' kid waiting for Christmas morning. Tonight I had other things to do. but I did manage to get the templates made for the patch panels!!! CW

:D :D I'm having a brain fart... Can I mount my Bilstein 5150 shocks in either direction or just can down? Or do I have 5125's.. another brain fart. BTW, this is my rear shocks, NOT remote res. (My fronts are body mounted,remote res. shocks.) CW