CWLONGSHOT

Just in and of itself on design, durability and usefulness. I selected the ARB as my top choice. BUT, it is costly up front, costly to install and frankly not always the best choice. Especially for occasional wheelers. I choose the Aussie as my second choice. Its cheap, durable, and well made. One huge advantage, if your even a bit handy EASY to install in a "open" carrier. The OX is a good one as well, but problems arise with the routing of the cable. So knowledgeable routing is tantamount to reliability and longevity. CW

I fixed the bad mount and remounted the bed today after work!! I first ad to finish the second bed mount. I think it came out very well for a thrown together thing as my buddies stood around watching. :D What do you think? Here is the bed on the frame... It won't run as the gas tank is still out so the winch gets lots of use tugging it out and spooling her back in the garage!! Still have to finish the gas tank and hang the exhaust, then reinstall the swing out and move the HI-LIFT to the top of the bad rail. I didn't like this place at first, but my brother-in-law has his there and I do like the look and the ability to have complete bed access. THEN, I would like to chop the bottom of the bed and extend my rear bumper forward and back into the frame. CW

I fixed the bad mount and remounted the bed today after work!! What do you'll think of my fabbing? Here is the bed on the frame... It won't run as the gas tank is still out so the winch gets lots of use bringing it out and putting her back in the garage!! CW

Check out my build thread. IIRC its the first or second page. I list application and maybe part numbers. Also, IIRC it was a late model Dodge truck tail gate.... CW

My 87 MJ with D35 has 1 3/4x10 brakes. My 94 XJ with 8.25" has 1 3/4x10 brakes My buddy's 91 XJ with D35 has 2 1/2x9 brakes. Correct, everything I have seen and herd says XJ's got the 9" rear brakes, the MJ got the 10's. BUT, just remember, this IS A JEEP and anything is possible. The D44 got the 10" wider 2"+ wide brake pads/drums. CW

I agree with Pete. This is not normal or correct. You have something electrical going on and you need to find it before you need another post here... How to open your hood after/during a fire!!! Some time back, I upgraded my MJ's electrical with a big alt and new MUCH heavier wires. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! It started, ran and produced better brighter lites!!! My cables where not allowing much electrical "flow". DC electric like whats in a vehicle is much like a water pipe, the bigger it is the better the flow. More power needs bigger wire. As wire ages its resistance raises. Causing the problems your experiencing. Start with new cables to and from the solenoid and starter and check the charging wire to the alternator. CW

If you do something like the pic above you will make something FAR FAR stronger than when your Comanche was new!! If you have looked around here, you know I am doing this right now. Only not in the steering box area. The metal thickness is very thin back behind the cab. Its MAYBE 1/16 thick back here. I do not know if its thicker up front. But I clad the sides with .125 steel and capped the bottom with another "U" channel of .125 steel and completely welded all the way around. Doing this is way stronger than stock. Then adding a couple thru pipes as in SS's pic will make something absolutely bomb proof!!! CW

I had a long sleeved sweat shirt and blue rubber gloves on, but STILL got some on my hands!! Guess I'll have it with me for some time... I did get one dot on my lower lip, and a couple tiny spots on my neck :mad: but its not noticeable. Forecast is for rain rain rain.... :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: Looks like I MIGHT get a break Wednesday afternoon. Other Than that, I might need to wait till SATURDAY!!!! Thanks for the compliments!! CW

Some friends stopped over and flipped the bed and I got it all stripped and started to POR15 it!!! CW

I had some buddies stop by after work today and they flipped my bed so I can easier work on the under side!! MAN IS THIS THING DIRTY!!! About 30 minutes with a hi-speed grinder with a wire wheel and I had the bed almost ready for POR15!! I decided to trim off the bent up tin at the rear of the bed.. I followed directions and removed only enough POR15 that I could use in 20 minutes and ladled it into the bowl. Dinner break and I'm back to finish... Now I just need to wait till we get some good weather and throw it back on the frame!!! Maybe Wednesday nite... CW

Its a country wide issue, supply cannot keep up with demand. Everyone is worried about gun grabbers... WHY THE "F" DIDN'T they VOTE!!! It happened with Clinton's first term as well, but didn't last this long. Might want to think on reloading. Of coarse right now, that stuff is not available either. :eek: :fs1: Primer cost is almost doubled, powder is up 25-50% and projectiles are non existent. CW

I agree with Pete. Your vibes are very likely coming from that drive shaft. At over 8" of lift, its time for a SYE and CV drive shaft. CW

Bad day for productivity today... RAIN RAIN RAIN!!! I did get the front of the bed painted and removed one busted bolt... CW

Didn't get too far today.. rain rain rain.... I DID pick up some more wire and still had feeding problems.... SO, I headed into the garage and my lights where on the fritz.. SO, three hours of running real lites and I was off to MJ work. Good news is now I am ready for nite work!! PLENTY of good lite now!!! :D :eek: :D :eek: I got the busted bolt out. I got the bed cleaned and the front painted. I measured and modified my lower mounts on the shocks and now they should be good to go. I still need to replace the one DS mount. Its rusted beyond repair... I am going to make a new mount with 1/4" thick stock. More to come... CW

First off, I am no expert welder. My machine is a new HOBART Handler140 115V MIG. Nice little machine I picked up last year when my long time used Snap-on unit crapped out. I used up the first roll 5# roll of factory .030 wire yesterday. That's where my problems started... I loaded a 2# roll of .035. About half way thru I began feeding problems. seems the wire was distorted. So that it wouldn't fit thru the tip. I was almost done with the project and figured it was the off brand wire. I planned on picking up name brand wire in the AM and continuing. WELL, even with the new wire, I had more welder problems today... As I said, I ran out and picked up Lincoln .030 wire. Loaded machine and started to weld... about 6" later SAME PROBLEM!!! The wire is freakin' split... Literally split in two and flattened, like the tension wheel had flattened the wire. I remove the tip and run it thru the gun. Once I get to round wire, I can feel still the variations in diameter. I checked and readjusted the feed wheel, tension and cleaned the bearing. SEEMS like the tension is WAY too much. But its only set of 3-4. It SHOULD be fine, right?? I set it so its only enough to feed wire, then a little extra. Maybe its the wire??? I had ZERO troubles with the wire that came with the machine... Lincoln SHOULD be good wire, no?? BTW, I am using reg (flux-core) wire shielding gas not necessary. Although I run both, this reg wire works better for the thicker steel welds. Any experts out there care to offer some tips or a solution??? CW

CONGRATULATIONS!!! It will serve you well!!

Thanks Casper & Art!! Art, It was weird.. I loaded and set the feed wheel for .035 wire and feed it into the "gun". It worked fine for a few inches to feet then wouldn't feed. I pulled the wire and it would be fine for another couple inches. Then jamb again. Closer inspection showed the bearing running on the grooved feed wheel was actually abrading & splitting the wire, causing the jambs!!! No matter, this is a 115V machine and .035 is bigger then I need, its just what I had when I finished my first spool of .030. I got to about 98% of done, so I called it quits and am heading out this AM for more paint and wire. Today, I need to make a new bed mount for the one that's rusted away. Then its in the garage to strip and paint the beds underside. Stay tuned... CW

Rust is and issue here, but not nearly as bad as some folks have to deal with!! Here is a before and after: CW

I moved my flairs up with some trimming I did years ago. I used 1/4X20 bolts with nylock nuts and fender washers. CW

I got out there early and just got in the house and jumped in the shower. I spent a 12 full hours working on the MJ!!!! The tank is all painted and vents and fuel pump mounted. It ready to mount. I started with the side panels. I clamped them to the frame and tacked them in place. I continued with the small welds until the panel was completely welded. Everything went well, until I ran out of .030 wire... .035 was giving my machine fits. Something going on with the feed. I got threw it, but it wasn't easy. I repeated this for all four panels. Then welded in the bottom. Here is what I am using for the bottom. Its 1/8" thick and will fit over everything, allowing welding on the sides instead of the bottom. Here is one of the rear most pieces welded in. Here is a couple shots with everything welded ready for paint. I also got the back of the cab shot with the new color!! All in all, a good day!! Tomorrow I start on the bed... hopefully next week I can get the bed remounted to the frame!!! CW

This is what your looking for: Image Not Found It bolts to the flange of your first pic. CW

There is probably 8-12 living near me as I see about 2-3 a week. I have seen there same ones for the past couple years. I also know where a couple live along the routes I frequent. Rust isn't as bad here as MI, but its bad enough!!!! CW

As mentioned, a new TB is a good idea. But while its off have a good look at the hole at the axle and at the frame. BOTH should be perfectly round. If the AXLE end is oblong, a good thick GRADE 8 WASHER can be welded in to repair. If the FRAME end is oblong, a replacement is in order. CW

Most of the time I only record the simular info, not copy/paste. But yes it is in both places. I got all the repair panels welded to the frame today!! YAAHOO!!! Almost 4Lbs of WIRE!!!!!! Pics and full story in my build thread. CW

IIRC, they are 10" of travel. cw