CWLONGSHOT

IIRC the problem with GL5 was the ferrous metal parts in the tranny. There is none in a D35 axle so its fine for that application... CW

GOOD JOB!! Very useful writeup of a common problem area/fix!!! CW

Hit the local Radio Shack and get yourself a cable end. Depending on your cable its likely RG58, but if you have big stuff, RG8. cut, install end and you should be good!! CW

Looks great!! Good work!! One thing I would do, is to cut/drill access hole for the rear most bed bolt. You may have no plans not to remove the bed. But its easy to make that hole now. Could be a pain if you need to do it with everything mounted to the truck. CW Is that what that hole is for immediately behind that bolt on the bottom of the frame rail? Willy Sorry, I missed this. YES, its the larger hole that allows access to the bolt up at the top of the frame rail right in the very back. You can just see a portion of the hole in you pic here. You really did a great job on this!!! CW

Looks really good, nice, clean and simple. It will do the job for you very well, I am sure. CW

LOL, funny stuff here... 43 this year. CW

For a time, I looked long and hard for a set of bed rails like you have there... Good looking MJ! CW

Its only a pain because its time consuming and the result is costly. Generally NOT a job the shade tree mech can accomplish. In reading your uses of your MJ, I have another suggestion. You could find a complete vehicle with better axle gearing, and swap in both axles. Then sell your D44 to fund the whole project!! Now, the D35 gets a bad rap, sometimes rightfully so. But in stock trim, IE your 29" 235's tire size make this make sence. The D35 is quite likely all the axle you will ever need. Personally, I would look for a pre 1989 vehicle so you can get the stronger non "C" Clip axle with bigger brakes. A set with 3:55 gears will be a nice upgrade, its harder to locate a set with 3:73's, but if you want to jump to 4:10's look for 4 cyl auto vehicles. CW

The TB looks like a Tera-flex unit. IIRC there smallest was for a 3-4" lift. If those discos came from the same vehicle I would assume that they will work up to a 4" lift. Ck the web site for the sizes available. CW

I have it as well, very stout and I am also very happy with it. CW

Here. :waving: Willy OOH, THAT BUMPER!! :D :D I LIKE the design, ALLOT!! Good job on this build!! You could also make up your own nut plate... Take a lighter piece of steel, drill to match the holes, insert inside frame to be sure of clearances and weld nuts on it.... But crush sleeves or complete tubed bungs would be stronger. I am doing something similar on mine. I just need to visualize my forward mounting flange. (Just behind rear wheels. I need to be able to jack off this AND still easily remove it. I think I know what I'll do, but as I do it we will see what happens... :dunno: :yes: CW

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They have been creeping back up near 2.50 again round here.... CW

If you haven't already done it, I would just drop it and dump it over. A good hosing out with brake cleaner or parts cleaner then set it aside for a long spell ot allow all to evap and re-install.... CW

Try either GUNPARTS CORP or NUMRIC ARMS in West Hurley New York. http://www.e-gunparts.com/model.asp?idDept=101 They USUALLY carry H&R parts! CW

Nice to see you chose a FORD for your project! Keep us well posted. WE LOVE LOTS OF PICS!!! I'll be watching too!! CW

We need the pass word dude!! (Sometimes I hate photo-bucket!!) FYI, I set mine up with two pass words, my master pass word for regular usage. Then a second one for everyone and anyone, mine is JEEPER!! It only allows viewing or copying, you could not change or delete any of my pics. CW

Ideal ratios, are somewhat dependant on your engine as well as tranny combination. Then, we will need to know what is your final tire size you will be running. If your feeling such a difference going up one size in diameter, I'm going to guess you have a 2.8L or a 2.5L engine. Even then, your engine is likely tired to feel such a difference for such a small change. You say you have a D44, it would sux to loose that, so a gear change or a hunt for another with better gears would be tops on my list. 4 Cyl trucks got you better gearing, but not always the D44. XJ's seem to be a bit more common here if for D44's at the rear. BUT, they will not swap directly in, but over all not too hard to make them work. CW

Has anything changed with this vehicle before the problem arose? I mean have you changed or altered anything recently? A manifold vacuum leak will also do this BTW... CW

I'm going to assume this is a new problem, AND that you have gone thru and given a complete tune-up. How about a fuel filter and good TB cleaning? Also, if its new, have you recently changed anything? If you did, try replacing what you did and see if this goes away CW

Not exactly sure what you said here.... If your doubting the price comparison between new rims and spydertrax spacers... 100 is the going rate for a set, American racing steel wheels, SO, $120 for two rims VS $100 for two spacers. No one here is going to argue any lack of safety of AR 767 rims and they are only 20 more than the spacers. LMK if I'm off base here.... CW

The rings need to be checked for OAL and adjusted for each application. IIRC you cannot open the pkg, install on piston and slide it in the bore... They need to be filed for proper clearance. CW

Hows the ground plain? How much extra wire and how is it routed? What kind of antenna? I like to set swr at the channel I use most. As its not adjustable for each channel, hence the reason I pick just one. CW

I think its a good idea as well. Is this a custom build? If so... wheres the pics??? :D CW

WTF is a shock "nest"? :???: :???: As for shock spec more information is needed, like stock or lifted. If lifted how much? CW