CWLONGSHOT

Got with Spencer today and hes got the goods. Thanks for the contact CW Spencer should have the "Pioneer" side decals, I bought a right set 2 years ago, and sent it to him, to copy and make the left set, and never heard a word about them :dunno: At least he came thru with the tailgate letters that I found and he was able to copy :D Thats not like Spence!! Drop him a note, I'll bet either he never received them or something like that happened. he is a really good, trustworthy guy. CW

JCWhitney....

Too bad on the rust... I sure have seen this before!!! I clad mine inside and out with .125 sheet steel. then capped the bottom with another piece of .125" I had bent into a "U" up so the sides where located 1" up instead of right on the corners. Then welded it entirely around. CW

If your going to stay spring under, I much prefer the older JKS B2 plate. But for spring over I would go with a kit that eliminates the U Bolts entirely. OR the JKS B3 might also work. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... eaf_Spring http://tntcustoms.com/page.asp?pageid=157 Here is a U Bolt kit... http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... eaf_Spring CW

Try a good friend of mine, Mahardesign. His name is Spencer Mahar. He has done decals for many guys here and does them quickly and accurately. Tell him your from here and I sent you. http://mahardesign.com/ CW

I beg to differ, An early D35 is a D35. The D35C is the newer "Custom" version as you later elude to. Eagle has compared the 8.25 27Spl with a D35. (That is a NON "C" Clip axle) I agree, you are correct. :cheers: If the axles them selves are the same diameter, splines and material. Neither is any stronger then the other. Its the housing that makes the 27Spl 8.25 axle better than any D35. :D CW

Geonovast, While I know what you mean, technically you are wrong. Eagle is comparing the early D35 with the 8.25. You have confused the D35C with his post. I also disagree with Eagle where he states the 8.25 is slightly stronger housing. I say its housing is quite a bit stronger. As many know this is the largest week point in the D35/D35C's design. Flex here causes all or the vast majority of the "C" clip failures seen with this lovely axle. But in the end, Dirty has capped the topic spot on...

For the first part of your question, the Aussie will be completely invisible in 2WD. Other then the ratcheting in corners, you will never know it is there. (I have had one for many years.) For the second part. I am not a big fan of fully locked on the street. But mostly this comes from WRANGLER driving experience. the longer WB our MJ's afford will largely negate these negative issues. But in any event, lockers are excellent "lo-side" finders. and if spinning will position you in the ditch at the side of the road. Good thing is, the extra traction will almost always allow you to get out. CW

I have the motion's now, had the RE and had a set made locally in the past. 10-15 EA is going rate for good U Bolts. I order mine online. CW

I was still on a roll from yesterday... SO. I started on the rear bumper side protection. I got the first side done. Then I shot it with a quick coat of primer and a final coat of Rustoleum Hammered black top coat. CW

I was still on a roll from yesterday... SO. I started on the rear bumper side protection. I got the first side done. Then I shot it with a quick coat of primer and a final coat of Rustoleum Hammered black top coat. CW

Our trucks have marginal cooling to begin with.. YES, I would recommend a good 3core replacement regardless of how you go... CW

Any updates?? CW

Nice job!! I agree, keep the pics coming!!! CW

If that pic you posted of the carrier is what you have, it does look like a XJ carrier to me. Biggest difference is the straight hose outlets, the XJ's are flat as the tank position is 90degrees different between XJ/MJ. If same motor, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, its just different. I am NOT sure about the interchanging of 2.5 and 4.0 pumps. CW

Motor mount lifts are not needed in the Comanche. The are useful in the YJ/TJ wranglers, with body lifts. They provide better drive shaft angles, lift the motor to better fill the engine bay. As the wranglers have such short shafts, that little motor lift really helps the bad angles left with 4+" lifts. CW

WELL, If its offroad only.. DITCH THE SWAYBAR!!!!!! :D :yes: CW

I agree, proper length links are REQUIRED for the sway-bar to work properly!!! If the bar is too high or too low it will not properly do its job. Buy or make longer/adjustable end links!!! If you at 5" of lift, with factory CA's your axle is back too far in the wheel opening. Your bump-stop that's inside the coil is no longer centered. Not to mention if your still running a factory steering setup. All of these things are further hampering your problem. CW

VERY NICE WORK!! Did the stupidvisor approve? Mine was keeping a close eye on me today as well... Image Not Found You gotta love them jeeper dogs!!! CW

Thanks man. It sure is a SMALL world huh?! I got outside early this AM made my front bumper. Came out rite nice, if I do say so myself.... :clapping: :rotfl2: :shake: I started with a stick 5ft of 2x2 and added two pieces of 2x3 on top, for the top sides. Then decided I didn't like the flat/square front. So I cut an angle on it so the 2x3 paralleled the grill lines. I left it long enough to bisect another short piece of 2x2 for each side. Here is a couple mock up shots. I tacked it in position and removed it to the welding bench for all welding. I then cut caps for the open ends and welded them in and ground flush. Then I put it back on and welded it on to the Back bone winch mount. I like the end result. now on to the rear bumper side protection... CW

I made my front bumper this AM. Came out rite nice, if I do say so myself.... :clapping: :rotfl2: :shake: I started with a stick 5ft of 2x2 and added two pieces of 2x3 on top, for the top sides. Then decided I didn't like the flat/square front. So I cut an angle on it so the 2x3 paralleled the grill lines. I left it long enough to bisect another short piece of 2x2 for each side. Here is a couple mock up shots. I tacked it in position and removed it to the welding bench for all welding. I then cut caps for the open ends and welded them in and ground flush. Then I put it back on and welded it on to the Back bone winch mount. I like the end result. now on to the rear bumper side protection... CW

If you think about that for a moment, you will realize longer CA's will actually GAIN you clearance at this point, not reduce it. Think on this, it doesn't/didn't contact stock, right? If you imagine you had a way shorter arm (Say 8" long) and maintained the same caster, the shock mount would bisect the lower control arm, right? So conversely, keeping caster the same and lengthening that same arm, to say 30") you would have gobs of clearance. Attaining and maintaining proper caster as well as the amount of lift is the key. Remember, your wheel moves in an arch, not straight up and down as it appears. One caviot, lifts past 5" or so will be effected as your describing. BUT the factory short arm setup is also no longer effective at this point either. A long arm set up is required. Some manufactures produce CA's with a arch to allow for more clearance in this area. But its really not necessary. It just gives the customer what he/she thinks they need. If it makes you feel better, trim yous a bit, but be careful some strength and integrity of that mount will be lost doing so. CW

This REALLY NEEDS to be stickied... :shake: :shake: search.php?keywords=death+wobble&terms=all&author=eagle&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search CW

This is on my short list as well.. I'll go the WJ parts route... CW

The last build came out so well and was so much fun. I have decided to build myself a jeep/camping/utility trailer! Think army Bantam/M416 trailer only lighter weight. I have had the idea floating around in my head for many years. I also stopped at the steel store again today... guess what... they got a large load of 2x2x .120 steel available for 1$ per pound. This REALLY set me over the edge as I can get all the 2x2 stock needed for $100 BEANS!!! :brows: :clapping: Here is MY basic plan: The complete build from thin wall, 2x2 square stock. (For weight savings) Sides and bottom of aluminum diamond plate. 1/8" bottom and 1/16" sides. (Again, weight savings as well as looks.) Sides where the fenders are will be rigid. Front and back will be on hinges with chains like old pick-ups used to be. Dimensions, bigger then 48" wide deck. I'm thinking 50" but will work with what I get for an axle. Drop axle most desirable for height savings. But must be at least 49" inside, so a full sheet of plywood/sheet rock can be loaded flat. Then a 60" length and 18" sides and gates. Allowing for 96"X 48+" deck. Expendable tongue. For ease of towing and handling. Hubs lug dimensions in TJ,XJ,ZJ,MJ,YJ pattern with 235 - 31" tires so jeep steel rims can be used. XJ leaf springs. With leafs removed as required. (I have multiple sets, they are long and did I mention that I have extras?) Not really looking for this to be a heavy-duty off-road trailer. 99% of its life will be ON road. I have found a couple trailer builds that closely mirror my ideas. http://www.redjeepclub.com/tech/offroad ... railer.php http://vegasauto.net/m416.html http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564914 Do you have and suggestions or comments? Let me hear them.... I am going to PU the steel Saturday, before it disappears.... CW