CWLONGSHOT

While that's slightly dramatic, corrosion can occur, but technically its called galvanic action. Its the result of moisture between the dissimilar metals. (Ever try to remove an old style V8 alternator pivot bolt?) It can be eliminated with good paint coat, anti sleeze, grease, silicone or something simular applied between the surfaces. O.P., If your doing this to cover up rust holes and do not remove and seal all rust from these areas. Pat is correct, you will only end up with bigger holes when the steel beneath rots away and the aluminum plates fall off... http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/932357 CW edit for spelling.

First and foremost, WELCOME!! :cheers: To my knowledge no one makes this specifically for our MJ's. I used 1994 Dodge Ram rear gate guards for my rockers. (GREAT fit) Check my build thread for pics and explanations. As for the rear rocker guards I made mine form flat stock. bent them up with a friends brake. Again, ck my build thread in my Sig for lots of info.. CW

Yup, January 13th I had a heart attack. 42 years old IS TOO YOUNG!!! But they rebiult me better, stronger, faster... I built a gate, swing out tire holder on my MJ. CW

I would start by grinding down the weld smooth and flush. Then see if you could cut out a "V" or birds mouth from the steel you welded in and remove it. Then weld it back up. If that didn't work, cover the weld with a diamond shape sheet of steel and weld that in over top. CW

My anniversary is June 6, 1998.. "D" Day. :roll: :D

I completely agree with Wahoosteeler!! I would buy a set of JKS XJ lift shackles. They are EXCELLENT, IMHO one of the best designs. They offer a slight boomerang for good angles and ride. They will match the MJ's stock length and are WAY sturdier. Get your lift from custom spring pack or add a leaf. Sounds like its only a matter of time till the SOA so maybe just tuff it out till then... http://www.jeep-tech-tips.com/JKS-XJ-Shackles.html Another good shackle is Rubicon Express XJ lift shackle. VERY similar and just as sturdy. http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/ ... s_id/71405 If you HAD TO have a lift shackle, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-01-Je ... 4004r23771 CW

There's a Harbor Freight store right near you now, on the Berlin Turnpike (okay, just off the Berlin Turnpike) at Route 9. Won't they ship it there and not whack you for freight? I TOTALLY FORGOT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had meant to stop in when I first saw the signs, last year. (My heart attack put the kibosh on most everything at the time.) I will have to go "visit" soon!! Thanks for reminding me man!!! :cheers: :cheers: ;) CW

Well, here is my unprofessional opinion... Assuming MiG. Also assuming you have adjusted your heat accordingly. Its kinda hard to see your welds. but kinda looks like too fast a feed and too quick a motion. Maybe slightly too hot. I know this doesn't sound right initially, but if you think about it. Heat burns thru, so moving the gun faster across the steel stops burning, but leaves thin beads. So you turn up the feed to compensate. This leaves "bird $#!&" welds with little to none for penetration. I don't think you this bad, but maybe somewhere in-between. The welds appear to lack real good penetration. Not awful, but could be better. Again, I cannot see them great. I would strike the bead on the thicker steel first. Spend 75% of the time there and then swing out onto the thin stuff. Kinda like skipping a beat. Instead of swinging back and fourth, linger on the thicker steel. Every other swing of the wand hit the thin steel. With the heat down the more time on the thicker steel will allow for penetration while not burning thru the thin stuff. If still you cannot get it you cannot get it. BUT be sure you seal up the joint with something or water will penetrate and rust between the sheets. Since you asked, a couple other critiques... Never leave the steel 90 degrees to the frame. It should be fish mouthed, to reduce stress fractures. Or at the very least angled. NOT doing so creates a stress point that will be easier to break as what you just welded in gives the area more leverage to break. IMHO, you should weld in some thing across the edges of what you already welded in. Also, you should have used narrower steel to allow for room to weld. the 1/2" narrower steel would have done nothing for strength but been much easier to weld. No offence meant, just my opinion from afar. Other than that the spot welds look good and it should do what you need to re-enforce the entire area. CW

Something to help you remember the terminology.. Pipe is for POOP!! :rotf: :brows: :D Also, as Pete mentioned, its FINE for bumpers, rock rails or the like. Just NEVER for roll cages!!! Pipe is measured on the INSIDE. Tube is measured on the OUTSIDE. Its a big reason the PIPE benders do not work for TUBE. I have been wanting a PIPE bender, like your asking about, for some time. They are cheap enough, but HEAVY and shipping almost equals there cost, so I still do not have one... But I am up to needing one as I need to finish my front bumper and this is all that's stopping me. I want to better protect my winch. CW

Guys, talking in these absolutes are bound for arguments. I have already posted up my experiences with Optimas. I would like to clean up some of the untruths mentioned previously. A Optima is NOT a gel cell battery. It is a SPIRAL CELL. It's a dry cell, so cannot spill. http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/ The RED top is designed as an improved version of most pother conventional car batteries. High vibration resistance and able to be mounted at odd angles or even on its side. The YELLOW top is a deep cycle battery. Specifically designed to be run down and charged up. Excellent for winch applications. Passable in starting applications. In my experience, I personally have recharged my wife's RED top 8-10 times In the past 3-4 years. Mostly because my wife likes to leave the lights on. At least twice that many times exturnal recharging was not necessary and the Jeep started and the charging system recharged the battery without incident. Again, its not what its designed for, but has worked perfecty. Something else, seems it's human nature to blame the product. Its never the owners fault. To make matters worse, many people feel its not even their responsibility and our society today further perpetuates this "liberal" mind set. If your battery keeps going dead, you have a draw on it. Wehe battery doesn't have an endless supply of power, its going to become discharged. If left in this situation, with a constant draw will destroy a battery. Regardless if it cost you 50 or 500 bucks. Trouble here as I see it is 50 bucks is OK to loose, but 500 is cause for alarm. BOTH occurred by no fault of the battery. But because the Optima costs more, its at fault, not the short. By weeding thru all the "opinions", you will find your truth. If they where such garbage, they wouldn't be selling so batteries. Prices are going UP not down so SOMEONE likes them SOMEONE is buying them! I like them and I will continue to put them under my hood. Sorry for the rant, reading some of the stuff in this thread just pushes my buttons. CW

don't forget the six little steel clips on top of each injector!!! Other then that.. good run down. :D CW

What are you doing from June 11-14th?? The NAC crew within NAXJA has a big event at Rausch Creek, it should be a great time!! Andy, How was the event? Sorry, far too much going on for me to get to wheel... maybe by the fall. CW

What else are you interested in seeing? I can take some more pics. Willy Maybe some shots showing fitment to pillar. Then some side views, outside in views, pass side views anything you can think of for different angles. Thx man. CW

I was wondering how this would fit our MJ's!! can you post or provide link to more pics of this mount? Please? Its something I really need to add as I do not trust my temp gauge.... :shake: CW

If done alone, I would tend to agree. If done in-conjunction with exhaust mods it will offer minimal gains. The complete bolt on upgrade would include, better filtration, larger TB, spacer, header, hi flow cat, maybe a chip and good free flowing cat back system. THEN you will get a perf gain, but IMHO not big enough to justify the costs to get all that stuff... CW

I thought thats what god made junk yards for... :rotfl2: :shake: :rotf: :dunno: :yes: :eek: :D

Don't be confused, the way I read this its about the pump only. Not its cradle/carrier. The cradle/carrier is different as the tanks are different. But everything I have read says like years pumps are the same. I have a 1990 pump in the garage for the MJ when the next one goes. When I swapped out my tank last month I compared the XJ and MJ pumps and to my eye they where identical. I have had very bad luck with aftermarket pumps... :shake: CW

I have had three, two Red tops and one Yellow. My first red is now approaching 7 years old and still its going strong, both the other two are just about four years and again, no problems. My Buddie (Juan) had had one going on TEN YEARS now!! The wife has "tested" them and its never left here stranded. Worth it, to me yes. CW

Like a lot of you guys, I too got hooked back in high school when I began my love affair with cars and trucks. Went thru my go fast Mustang, Chevelle, Impala phase and graduated to trucks right after high school. I got hooked on Jeeps driving a old Willis plow truck at the garage I was working at right after high school. I looked hard at a new Comanche 4x4 in 1986, but ended up with a new, left over 1985 4x4 Ranger. Great truck, sold it more then ten years later with 175K and running strong. Spent a couple years with F250's and a Chevy C20 all 4x4's. Now and for the past 15 or so years all I have owned are jeeps!! I currently own 5 and but since my Pop moved in with us, there are now six jeeps calling my garage/driveway/yard home. :shake: :rotf: :D Its a disease, there is no known cure and I LOVE IT!!! CW

I would strip to bare metal (As you say you have done) and coat with two coats of POR15. Then top coat with what ever you like. :D I too have recently been liking the Rustoleum Hammered paint. I prefer to buy the spicier HD joints. Napa joints have been very good as well. If you read the thread Ubolts thread, you know what I prefer for the spring plates. I would think you could easily alter the factory plate to work with the 44 if need be. I would just bend up new lines. They are cheap and can be made easily to fit perfectly. As for the brakes. If you haven't done so already, I would completely rebuild them and have the drums turned or replace them as well. Good luck, CW

I thought it was you CW-man. Just curious - how did you break it? Big tires and too much flex... :yes: :dunno: :shake: I truly feel it was a faulty part. It basically wore out too fast. Traflex replaced it but then same thing happened about a year later. We measured the deflection and they would not warranty it a second time so I upgraded to the JKS unit. That was 2005, the JKS is still there and going strong. CW

Fingers and toes crossed for you man!! Wishing you the best of luck. CW

IMHO stay away from hiems for street use. Been there, done that, never again. Hornbrod is right, I had a Tera-flex unit and killed it, upgraded to a JKS unit. I liked it well enough. That was on the TJ. I am running a modified WJ setup (Bushings on both ends.) on the MJ. Its also a JKS unit modified to Kevin's off-road specs. VERY nice and heavy duty unit!! Neither of my choices was the cheapest, but when you add up all I bought to get what I have I would have been FAR and AWAY better off to had listened to someone telling me buy the better unit now or PAY for MORE later. CW

Me too!! :waving: :D CW

Your thinking is sound and sometimes it does cause problems. I suggest you not go overboard with the tape and likely you will be fine!! Good luck, CW