CWLONGSHOT

Cocco78, I wouldn't and didn't say it was weak, just not as strong as the HI-pinion, rev rotation version found in all 4WD XJ/MJ's. Of those the solid/one piece/non disco axle, W/297 joints is the most desirable:D BTW, I too wheeled the piss out of the one in my 99TJ with 35's and a locker with ZERO issues!! My point to the O.P. was, just keep looking till you find a HI-Pinion non-disco axle. There is many many out there. BTW, Hi neighbor!! :waving: Where in Connecticut are you? Meriden here. CW

First off, your better off buying a complete kit with everything you need. Like the RE 5.5 kit... BUT, to answer your questions by the numbers... 1) Depending on your axle tube dia. and final perch height, 5-6" 2) I like the factory Cryco 8.25 perches. 3) Complete new steering system, the factory one is useless above 4". Good HD track bar with HD brackets. I like the KEVINS TB. YES adj arms are necessary. YES drop bracketry is also. (OR long arms would be even better.) 4) Already answered, YES go with the drop brackets OR a long arm set up. 5) Not necessary. But the strength it affords is never a bad idea. the length is depending on your final lift and axle you will use. 6) BILSTIEN, BILSTIEN, BILSTIEN!! Did I mention Bilstein make a great shock? Am I experiencing DEJa VU.. wasn't this very thing asked just a couple days ago??? CW

Looks are the icing, as long as you have good penetration you will be fine. Like a very good friend of mine says, a good grinder makes most people good welders. :shake: :brows:

For gears, I like to buy DANA. Its more expensive, but can save setup time as factory offsets can be ordered for closer to your exact set up can be duplicated. Randy's ring and pinion has been my source. For almost everything else, I buy from a very good friend of mine, Lou Kiklas in Massachusetts, Elias 4WD center, 1-978-597-8432. Call him up, ask for the old man, tell him I sent you and disregard any of his stories of our high school antics... :eek: :idea: :shake: Lou will do you right, with quick service and knowledgeable answers. CW

I think the Rubi's had a HP D30. Or were they not available in 2000? Rubicons have D44s front and back... I'm thinking you know this and just miss typed.

http://www.madxj.com/ Down near the bottom is a couple good write ups to give you some ideas.... CW

Pat, I am glad it worked out for you!! :cheers: :cheers: I had a long post with much advice. Much of which mirrored what you have already read. BUT... seems the Comanche club forum demons are at it again and before I could post... poof... its gone. :fs1: :headpop: . But no matter, sounds like your biggest priority has been satisfied. Just so you know your not alone, I too had buku OT last pay period. I fully expected mistakes. But to my delight I was merely shorted one days pay for carrying the ONCALL phone..... :oops: :oops: Just $40 bucks. But shorted just the same. CW

It will bolt in, no problem. but all TJ's are lo-pinion. Not quite as strong or as good drive-shaft clearance as the HI-Pinion. CW

I mocked up some bumper ideas on paper today between work orders. I think I have come up with a good working plan. No pics as I haven't done anything. I stopped at the steel store and picked up the stock for my bumpers... :brows: :brows: I got 2x4, 2x3, 2x2, all .125 thick along with a couple 10''X24" scraps of diamond plate. Once home, I clamped some scraps together for a look at the actual idea. I haven't seen anything exactly like my idea, but I think it looks good. CW

Looks good and factroy. NICE idea. BTW, your gonna LOVE the INFINITY speakers... I know I do!!! CW Mine has 5.25 components up front and 4x6 plates in the rear. All driven by a Alpine head unit. Very satisfied with the sound quality.

Like most jeep sites, DEATH WOBBLE is also covered here ad nausem. Please look there first. Our search can be finicky, but here is a search that will help you immencely. IMHO, EAGLE has a great handle on cause and effect of DW. I also threw in a search using myself as an author. search.php?keywords=death+wobble&terms=all&author=EAGLE&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search search.php?keywords=death+wobble&terms=all&author=cwlongshot&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search One thing. Your last post mentioned hearing/feeling something pass side front. Our MJ's are unit body vehicles and are extreamly hard to locate exact position of noises. Trust me, sometimes I would SWEAR the exact position of this or that noise, only to later find the actual noise was not even close to where I thought it was. Its quite uncanny how sound travels. CW

GOOD PLAN!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: That plate looks good too. CW

I agree, for that brace to be of any use, it needs to be welded. ALSO, the addition of a steering brace will allow forces to be redirected to the opposite frame rail. CW

Don, your spot on correct. Alloy wheels WOULD be the bomb!!! I'll have to watch the classifieds... :brows: :brows: Tonight we almost finished it!! First we welded in the box cleats. we used 1.5" angle iron on either side. then bolted the box to that. One thing I forgot... how much of a PIA it was drilling stainless steel!!! :fs1: :fs1: :eek: Then we tackled the inner fender shirts. I had a sheet of stainless steel that was perfect for these!!! My brother-in-law made up a cardboard template and then cut out the sheet steel. I tacked it in and painted it. Lastly I finished up the rear bed board retention straps. The last things are 6 "D" rings on the frame rails. A piece of tube steel for the front stake to "anchor" the grinder to the trailer and make up a custom spare tire carrier. Its getting registered tomorrow, inspection and frame serialization next week. Stay tuned for the final post and pics of the completed trailer. Thanks to everyone for all comments, suggestions and praise. :bowdown: ;) CW

Well, nothing scientific, but my temp gauge usually runs at a needles thickness over 210. Today, with a can of water wetter added, I was watching the temp gauge and its running at a needles width UNDER 210. I'll watch it for a couple more days... CW

Outer stub shaft... Least that's what I always called it... CW

Its been awhile since I offered the skinny on shackles, so here goes again... First the facts: The FACTORY MJ shackle measurement is 5-5.5" eye to eye. MY leafs are longer, mounted spring under and have much more arch than a XJ's. The FACTORY XJ shackle is 3.5" eye to eye. XJ's leaves are much flatter, mounted spring over and shorter than a MJ. As stated, advertised XJ shackle lift numbers will NOT jive with the MJ. Because as stated, the XJ shackle starts out shorter. Same story for XJ add-a-leafs. They do provide lift, but not as much as advertised for the XJ. Shackles only lift one end of the spring, SO you need two inches of shackle length (over stock) to gain 1" of lift. Exp. 5.5" + 2" = 7.5" eye to eye measurement. Installing this shackle in a MJ will net you approx 1" of lift. Installing longer shackles allow a lot of leverage to be applied to the leafs. SO, keep the shackles as close to factory as possible. A 5.5" on a XJ and 7.5" on a MJ is about as long as I would go. Another big issue with shackle installs. Leave them LOOSE and drop the weight and jounce the vehicle. THEN tighten to final torque. We are not talking front shackles here... BUT longer front shackles are a NO-NO as they ruin castor and kill approach angles. CW

I don't know about the 4 cyl rads, but for the fan, Many people like a factory ford Taurus fan. Again unsure about the 4 cyl applications... CW

I pulled out my headliner tonight and glued on a new cover!! Overall went very well. One tip.. don't ask the wife for help after a long hard day baking and making cakes... (Her job) One kink/wrinkle. But I can and will have to live with it now... 5 Min's with a wire brush quickly and effectively removed all the old headliner backer and adhesive. Found one crack in the back. I taped it yo front and back and hope it will hold. Its back in, about 20 Min's start to finish!! Here is a couple shots of my seats and nice freshly cleaned interior. :D CW

I pulled out my headliner tonight and glued on a new cover!! Overall went very well. One tip.. don't ask the wife for help after a long hard day baking and making cakes... (Her job) One kink/wrinkle. But I can and will have to live with it now... CW

I COMPLETELY agree.. But then again, I like to be different... CW

see people do want the cooler thermostat Doesn't mean its the right thing to do. Cooler.. yes. But 160 is generally considered too lo for the renix engines, 180 is a compromise. If you can get it to run with a 190 or 195 your better off. IIRC, yes a 195 IS factory spec T-stat.

OH MY GAWD... NOOOOOOOOO!!! :D

GOOD JOB!! Nice job with the little things!! It makes ALL the difference!!!! :bowdown: :cheers: CW