CWLONGSHOT

I generally don't buy beer in cans. But... I just may HAVE to build one of these... http://webmail.earthlink.net/wam/MsgAtt ... =612051804 CW

Its a staple in the CW household. As are game meats in general. I had it two nights ago. This time of year, its on the table at least two times a week. Its MUCH better for you and harvested myself, as it should be. CW

Just FYI... the 6000 IS WHAT the FACTORY offered and made that neat little mount for XJ/MJ's....... A general rule is 2-2.5 times GVWR. When considering you ca get this @ a buck and a half, I would grab it. I may be on the lighter side, but it will work and you can always sell and upgrade down the road. CW

I agree, you have a couple things going on at the same time. I would first replace/check those rotors. You may in fact be correct with the bushings, but the rotors is where I would begin my search.... CW

My thoughts here lean more to the legality. I am fairly certain they will holfd up fine if basic common sence is adheared to. but what if something happened to your rig that was wheel related. Somehow the bottom dwelling lawer for the poor sumbitch you hit found out you had these spacers. He could railroad you into a very bad place. You would not have a leg to stand on and very likely even your insurance co would leave you high and dry. You don't need something ike that hanging over your head for the rest of your life. Use them for off road or be prepaired to face the reprucussions of your actions. Sorry for sounding like a Dad, Its early and haven't had any beer yet to mello me out... I'll be better and less responsable in a couple hours. :brows: :D CW

Spacers can be expensive, at least for the good ones and even then most are NOT DOT, that means if wever something bad happened and your spacers are somehow related, YOU and only YOU will be at fault.... Something to consider, you know lawers today. Any how, you do have other options, look for a set of used rims with less back spacing!!! Replace the LCA's with WJ arms as outlined here by Pete. good luck, CW

You are correct, you do not have them backwards. Caster IS adjustable Camber is not. (Easilly) adjustable. You CAN install adj Ball joints to adjust CAMBER. Here is an example of CAMBER: Here is one of CASTER; CW

Defineately go 220v, and look at cfm ratings, they are not created equil. CW

Just so I have this straight.. You own and drive this MJ. But don't like it and don't understand our fondness for them.. That about sum it up? I suggest you DEFINEATELY, go buy the yota and never look back. The jeep thing has never been something that needs explaining. If you don't get it just by driving/owning one, you likely never will. Not to be defensive, although it's tough, the 4.0 is one of the top engines ever produced. Right there with the cheby 350 and Plymouth slant 6. If you change the oil, its will last and last and last. 200,000 PLUS miles is NORMAL! CW

The HP and LP versions of the D30, are BOTH BOLT IN's all MJ/XJ/TJ/ZJ's reguardless of how came from the factory. CW

XJ and MJ frames are slightly different, the MJ is already stiffer than the XJ. So MJ's don't really need it. A few of us have clad our frames in angle iron steel for stregnth dragging the frame over rocks. I also have my rock rails welded to the srane. I'm sure it stiffens up the frame but that wasn't the inicial intent. CW

So, Its all fixed?? CW

I did nothing what so ever to my TJ. Brakes are awsome and work even better off road. I am able to ease down a drop off like NEVER BEFORE!! 4wheel disks are the way to go!! CW

As stated, the tape measure is your friend. Measure twice cut once!! don't be that idiot that says I cut it twice and its STILL short!! :D Really, its NO BIG DEAL. Your just a bit intimadated as you haven't done it yet. Step back and think about what your doing, its a piece of cake. Measure from the backing plates in works fine for me. The 8.8's diff is NOT centered. Its also not a problem. Some people have said they mounted the axle off center to better center the pumpkin and drive shaft. Then just add a spacer to one side to compinsate. I do not feel it is necessarry. My TJ has a 8.8 with a very short 18" DS and NO ISSUES from the offsett angle its running at. So the LONG LONG MJ drive shaft will never be a problem. CW

At only 2inches of lift the bracket should come pretty close to recentering your axle. Its pretty easy to see this for yourself. You will need a friend, unbolt the lower end of the TB and have the friend sit in drivers seat and turn the wheel until the axle is centered. Push the TB back up and look at how much adjustment is required to make the axle centered. Decide for yourself. The adj TB is a better idea or much more costly. CW

You will NOT need or want to add a DPA unless your going to driop the TB the same amount. The TB and drag link need to be of the same legnth and angle or bump steer will result. CW

I don't know.. the linkage conversion I got first was 80 something and it was trashed in two years. now I have bought the Novak and its been good, 100% trouble free for over a year.... No its not cheap, but the good stuff seldom is. ALWAYS REMEMBER the sweetness of lo initital cost is soon forgotten when the bitterness of the poor quality becomes evident. CW

Thats REALLY GOOD ADVICE!!! Now is the perfect time to do this upgrade!!! I have it in my TJ and LOVE IT!!! I have a video clip of it.. lets see if I can find it for you... Here ya go!!! CW

Those only offer more droop and thats only if you can get a long enough shock under the rear!! They do nothing for load carring ability. Actually might be detrimental in off camber situations and a shifting load. CW

I just KNEW you could do it!! :thumbsup: CW

This is what I would do!! Fix it FIRST, then UPGRADE!! CW

WOW, you covered MOST of the DW problems in one fell swoop!!! I am NOT SUPRISED you got DW!!! #1 Fact TB's are not adj OR repairable. GO BUY A NEW ONE. 40-60$ #2 So you KNOW ther allignment is off yet are suprised you have DW problems??? GO GET IT ALLIGNED!!! 60-80$ #3 The bar is called a Drag link. The Ball joint on the top IS REPLACEABLE. If there is movement, REPLACE IT!!! 25-40$ #4 You know they are bad how? Has someone seen the front wheels bounce at speed? Have you done a jounce test? What shocks do you have out back? Are they good or bad as well? You shouldnt mix TYPES of shocks, IE gas and Hydraulic. I hesatate to tell you to go get the prefered GAS shock if you have good Hydraulics in the rear.... Check it out and get back to us. But ultimeately, if they are bad tyou NEED NEW ONES!! A YJ front shock will be about 2" longer and fit your application perfectly. (FRONT ONLY!!) Hydraulics 25-50$ EA Gas 30-100$ EA. The prices I quoted are what I am able to buy the parts for around here. Likely very close to what you can get them for. I am also assuming YOU will be installing as instilation fees will elevate this cost considerably. Now go read up on DW posts, you have been on here long enough to have recognized your conditions and MAJOR culprits of DW. OOH, one more thing, TRUE DW dosent "smooth out" Its a white knuckle, piss you pants, NEVER want to have happen again experience. That isnt over untill you have come to a complete stop and gotten out to check if all of you MJ is still bolted together. :yes: :eek: CW

I have the JCR setup on BOTH my jeeps and HIGHLY recomend the product AND the company!!! CW

Yes, Central Axle Disconnect. You have a two piese axle shaft on the pass side. Each end is splined and a splined collar rides between them. Whne the T-case is sfifted into 4WD, vacuume is sent to the diapram in the CAD and the collor bwegins to move to connect the two sides of the shaft. What I 'm suggestion is that your collar is not fully engaging the splines of the other axle. Causing the noise when the "teeth" or splines try to engage. There are a couple options for you. Rebuild your CAD. Replace your CAD. Install washers to hold the axles engaged all the time. Install a cable lever to manually shift into 4WD. Try the search in this forum, there are many many countlesss threads outlining all options. CW

don't worry man, we are still above $2 here in CT. I got gas for the wife Friday @ 2.13 than again for my self in the comanche on Sunday at the same station and it was 2.10... I had to gass up the mazda to the otherday... 270 miles and it cost me almost $11 to fill the tank!!! :roll: :roll: Freaking gas hog!! :rotf: :rotf: (Thats 27mpg in town!! :bowdown: ;) ) CW