Eagle

Ever hear of Clayton Offroad? https://www.claytonoffroad.com/?cPath=86_110 Clayton was an industrial engineer when I first met him. He worked for a small manufacturing company two towns north from me. We were both members of the same off-road club, and he got started by making stuff for his own rig, which was once a Grand Cherokee ZJ. (It later became pretty much unrecognizable.) Then members of the club started having him make similar parts for their rigs. A few years later, he was renting an unused garage area in the factory where he worked, and selling and installing his long arm kits. It grew from there. He quit the manufacturing company and struck out on his own somewhere in Waterbury, Connecticut. Now he's in East Haven, in an even larger facility. If you have an understanding and cooperative employer, you might be able to follow a similar path. Doing a complete career change isn't easy, and usually involves going back to school for some sort of training, and probably certification. And, as has been pointed out, then you start at the low end of the ladder.

Back at you, and the same to everyone.

The '87 2.5L should have a throttle body injection, not a carburetor. The throttle body isn't hard to remove -- disconnect the throttle linkage, disconnect the fuel inlet line, unbolt it, take it off.

Hey, at least the frame is good

The ZJ box isn't any beefier than the XJ/MJ box, it just has a slightly faster ratio. XJ/MJ ratio is 14:1, the ZJ box is 12.7:1. If you want beefier, get the Dakota box.

Merry Christmas, y'all.

As others have already noted, the most likely suspect is the CPS.

The following is from the draft of a book I started to write many years ago. It is copyrighted and by posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to distribute copies of it to anyone else, in any form. In general, the parts to be concerned with in keeping the front brakes compatible are the steering knuckles, the hub/bearing assemblies, the rotors, and the calipers. (There is a more complete enumeration of the interrelationship of these parts in Chapter 6, Axles.) Only two steering knuckle designs were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side knuckles are different part numbers within each group. Three different hub/bearing units were used. The hub/bearing units are the same for both sides of the vehicle. The different years for hub/bearing assemblies were: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite rotors); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast rotors). Three rotor types were used: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast). Only two caliper types were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side calipers are different part numbers within each group.

Considering the rear disc brakes, the ZJ factory combination valve would probably be a better choice than an XJ combination valve. The ZJ unit is calibrated for disk brakes.

Do we have any EMT's among our membership? I need some help from an EMT. I've been tasked with writing a review of an "outdoorsman's" first aid kit. The base level retails for $99.95 -- it's more an entry-level trauma kit than it is a simple "first aid" kit. Obviously, I have photos and a list of the contents of the kit I'm reviewing, and I also have photos and lists of contents of two much less expensive first aid kits, one that's 106 pieces and one that's 52 pieces. I plan to use those for comparison, to show where in the spectrum the reviewed kit falls. I would also like to show something more toward the upper end of the spectrum, i.e. a basic-level EMT first responder kit. Oh -- also, dimensions of the bag, closed and stocked, would also be helpful. I know I could do some Googling and find something on the Internet, but I don't want to infringe copyrights on any company's photo(s). If there are any first responders among us, I would very much appreciate it if you could snap a couple of decent quality photos of your EMT bag -- one showing the bag closed and ready to roll, and maybe a couple showing the bag opened to display the contents. If you have the time and the inclination, if you could then do a photo with the contents all spread out to show everything, that would be terrific -- but I know unpacking and repacking the bag takes time, of which none of us has enough. If you can do it, please drop me a PM and I'll send you an e-mail address for transmitting the photos. Thanks in advance.

I believe that should be the case, but I would still want the brake system failure light to be operational. Although I would hope that anyone who is a member of this forum knows enough to be able to tell when their brakes have filed without a light to confirm it.

I'm familiar with that unit, but it doesn't provide any way to operate the brake system warning light.

I just received confirmation that Mike from NJ's red XJ, which we saw on many, many NAXJA NAC trail rides, is a '92. It had the clutch/start lockout.

Do NOT run two proportioning valves. VERY bad idea, because you will have no way of controlling what the combination is doing. If you use a combo valve from an XJ (or a ZJ Grand Cherokee), open it up and disable the proportioning the way I described. Either that, or don't use an adjustable proportioning valve in series with the XJ proportioning valve. All XJ combo valves have the brake failure warning system built in. Look at the photo I posted above. That horizontal thing running across the top of the device is a shuttle valve.The plastic thing sticking out of the top is the switch. When the plunger is down (as in the photos), it rests in that narrow section of the shuttle plunger. If the plunger moves either direction (depending on whether the front or the rear brakes fail), the plunger is pushed up to close the circuit and activate the light on your dashboard.

No, it was several years earlier than 1998. Mike from NJ had one with the lockout and I'm pretty sure his was a '93 or '94.

Put an adjustable proportioning valve up front, near the master cylinder and the distribution block, and then at least you can manually dial in more rear brakes if you should ever find yourself hauling some load. Question: Do you have the original distribution block/warning light sensor, as shown in my photo above? If not, I would strongly advise you to get one and install it while you are re-doing the brake system. If you can't find one for an MJ, get one from a junkyard XJ. Remove that plug from the nose, throw away the spring and the O-ring from the plunger, push the plunger all the way into the "nose nut" (for want of a better term), and you'll have a brake warning light with no proportioning function.

In the MJ, that block up front (which it would appear drcomanche doesn't have) is NOT a proportioning valve. It offers NO proportioning function whatsoever -- it's a distribution block, plus the device that triggers the brake failure warning light on the dashboard. Pickups especially need some sort of proportioning valve because when the bed is empty it's VERY easy for the rear brakes to lock up before the fronts, causing a spinout. But -- when the bed is fully loaded, you need all the braking you can get on the rear. This is why the XJ has the proportioning function built into the front distribution block, but the MJ uses a rear proportioning valve that responds to how heavily the bed is loaded by increasing the braking to the rear wheels under load. The first question is: does the truck still have the original rear height/load sensing valve (mounted to the rear frame, above the rear axle on the left side)? If so, is it functional? Note -- if it's there and working, there would be TWO brake lines from the front to the rear of the truck.

The answer is a qualified yes ... maybe. Front, rear, or both? For the front, the hub/bearing unit from a 1999-200? Grand Cherokee WJ will have the 5x5 bolt pattern. BUT ... it's not as simple as just swapping the hub/bearing unit. Even within the XJ and MJ years, there were multiple combinations of hub, caliper, steering knuckle, and rotor. Mix and match, and something would be offset from something else and the combination wouldn't work. So, to do the front axle swap, you would need to swap everything from the axle housing itself out -- steering knuckle, hub/bearing unit, rotor, and caliper. And then you would need to keep track of the part numbers and be sure than anyone who works on that axle knows what parts you swapped in. Spacer/adapters would be cheaper and easier. For the rear, there may or may not be a factory Jeep axle of the same type as yours (i.e. Dana 35, Dana 44, or Chrysler 8.25) with the 5x5 wheel mounting flange and the correct axle shaft length. You might luck out, or you might have to have custom axles made. Again, spacers would likely be cheaper and far easier.

I may be the only person on here old enough to remember when Junior was racing. That was back in the days when stock cars were still more or less cars, rather than custom, tube-framed racing chassis with the same fiberglass body on all of them and a "grille" painted on to look [sort of] like whatever make it's pretending to be. R.I.P., Junior. https://www.newser.com/article/53c013ccfa09aa8451a9324c01ef7b15/junior-johnson-the-last-american-hero-dies-at-88.html?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_sports_img_b

Andy, Mike Giannone (Mike from NJ on NAXJA) had that interlock on his red XJ. I think it came in around '91 or '92

Have you put a timing light on it to check the timing?

Back in my racing days I created the same problem by accident. I had an AMC Javelin that I autocrossed. After being state runner-up in class two years in a row and then winning the class the next year, I wanted to try some real road racing, and I settled on the New England hillclimb circuit. I pulled out the back seat and installed a roll bar, then I decided if I was going to be at risk of falling off a mountain that a kill switch might be a good idea. I had the wiring diagrams. I cut into a circuit somewhere, wired in my switch, fired it up and then hit the kill switch to test it. All that happened was the headlights got brighter. I wish I could remember the details, because it might help you. Basically, I hadn't killed the ignition, all I had done was to take the battery out of the circuit so the car was running on direct alternator. So I undid whatever I had done, and came up with an alternate arrangement for the kill switch. Is the wiring in your MJ all original, or had it been "improved" by some previous owner?

His tranny is from a '93. His truck is an '88

Yes, the 2WD AW4 can be converted to 4WD. But it's probably cheaper to just buy a 4WD tranny from a junkyard.