Eagle

Diversity training? These days they train us for everything except doing the job. When it appeared recently that I was going to be appointed to a position working for a municipality (it later got sabotaged by politics) I was told that I would have to attend a seminar on sexual harrassment. Under the circumstances, I didn't think I should ask (a) why they thought I needed to develop any additional expertise in sexual harrassment, or (B) what the taxpayers would say if they found out the town was training us to sexually harrass our co-workers. The office manager is actually rather attractive. Since I'm sure as a full-time employee she has attended this seminar, I keep waiting for her to try out her training on me but, alas ... it hasn't happened.

Pull the fuel pump/sender assembly. Remove the two wires from the sender (they should be slip-on spade terminals) and reverse them. Reassemble.

Welcome. You'll find that this is a pretty laid back and well-behaved group. We're all here to help each other, so stick around.

http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/ You can use this to get the basic vocabulary. It is NOT perfect. I used it to translate an e-mail from my wife when she was in Chile taking care of her mother after a stroke. The message translated to give me the impression my wife had just been diagnosed with breast cancer. Turns out she wrote "mama" and the idiot translation routine interpreted that as a reference to the female mammary gland. If you're near a Barnes & Noble book store, they have a section devoted to foreign languages. You can buy a traveler's Spanish phrase book that will handle rudimentary grammar, and use Babelfish for the technical stuff. Keep in mind that South America has more regional accents and dialects of Spanish than we have regional accents and dialects of English in the U.S. Some of it is not intutive. Wrench is "llave" -- which also means "key" for example.

Take the wires off the ballast resister and jumper them together, then try it. What you are describing is the classic symptom of a failed ballast resistor. (That white ceramic block.) The start circuit bypasses it when the key is in the START position, then when you release the key to the RUN position the power goes through the resistor. Quick check -- after it runs and dies out, there's not much pressure in the fuel system. Turn the key to ON (RUN, not START). Do you hear the fuel pump running? It should run for about 5 seconds, until the fuel rail is pressurized. If you don't hear the fuel pump -- the resistor isn't allowing power to the fuel pump.

Hate to break it to you, but the Comanche and the Cherokee are exactly the same front chassis, and the shocks go into both exactly the same way. I've found it's easiest to drop a box-end wrench over the nut inside the engine compartment, then reach into the wheel well and turn the shock.

I believe the factory connector was an 'L' shaped rubber push-on. The last one I remember working on was so oil-soaked (old '84 4-cyl) that the rubber was too loose to maintain contact, so I cut it off and used a conventional crimp-on ring terminal on the wire. The sender is threaded, so I was able to run a nut down on it. On the Renix stuff, the gauges run independent of the ECU so you should be able to feed them right off the senders. And you can run a 4.2L distributor out of an older YJ Wrangler or any AMC 6-cylinder 199/232/258 all the way back to about 1966.

All the way to the back of the head (not block), driver's side. Screws into a hole in the top of the head, so it's vertical. It has a single wire coming off it. What'cha doin"?

That's "olde" pharte, with an 'E' I think the revised version is a lot better. I'm a lot like Pete. I grew up when cars were over-engineered -- you could buy a Ford or a Chevy and (within reason) just drop in a bigger motor and take it to the drag strip. Today, cars (vehicles) are so precisely engineered to keep costs under control that if you add 5 horsepower you risk blowing a tranny or axle. There are no "frames," so the structure is engineered to be only as strong as necessary ... and to crumple in a pre-determined way in the event of a collision. None of this is geared to the kinds of stresses a vehicle might encounter under real off-road conditions. Example: When AMC/Jeep offered the hidden winch option on the mid-80s XJs and MJs, they used a 5000 or 6000 pound Ramsey winch. Today, nobody would even think of putting less than an 8000 pound winch on an XJ, and I've seen estimates that the force needed to extricate a vehicle of around 4,000 pounds that's in mud up to the floor may be as high as 12,000 to 15,000 pounds. That's why we want to overbuild. We're not concerned with CAFE (unless our trail rig is also our daily driver), but we are concerned with staying alive and not hurting one of our trail buddies.

How badly do you want a 1953 Willys pickup? That's the ONLY criterion. I enjoy looking at them ... when other people own them. I love my Cherokees and Comanches, but there's no way I'd actually BUY one of those old Willys things. I've driven them.

I mis-read the original post. I thought you were saying that you put 500 foot-pounds on the used crush sleeve when you reassembled.

Which coolant temp sensor, the one in the head for the gauges, or the one in the block for the ECU?

I can't say what Yukon gear includes for instructions. Personally, I only use Dana-Spicer gears. Here's what the MJ FSM says for pinion setup: ------------------------------------ Tighten the pinion nut only enough to remove bearing end play using Tool J-8614-01 and a socket. Rotate the pinion when tightening the nut to seat the bearings evenly. Continue tightening the pinion nut to collapse the spacer and preload the bearings. When a very slight increase in pinion turning effort is noted, check the pinion rotating torque using an inch-pound torque wrench. The rotating torque must be 2 to 3 N-m (15 - 25 inch pounds). CAUTION: Do not exceed the specified preload torque and do not loosen the pinion nut to reduce preload if desired torque is exceeded. If the specified preload torque is exceeded, replace the collapsable spacer and seal. Install the yoke and the replacement pinion nut and adjust preload torque again. ------------------------------ Note that this adjustment is performed WITHOUT the ring gear being installed. All this is checking is the torque needed to rotate the pinion gear in its bearings. My tech friends tell me that it takes around 300 foot-pounds to crush the sleeve. Since you aren't supposed to crush it too much, when replacing a seal (since they don't want to open the diff and remove the ring gear for an otherwise external job) they use 275 foot-pounds on the pinion nut because they're pretty certain that WON'T crush the sleeve any more than it was originally. I would be very uncomfortable about 500 foot-pounds. That sounds way excessive, unless the crush sleeve they supply doesn't match factory specifications.

500 foot-pounds? :eek: The spec on a crush sleeve isn't in foot-pounds. It's in inch-pounds, and it's based on tightening (crushing) until it takes 10 inch-pounds (I think, or is it 15?) to turn the pinion. That's when the preload is set. My shop tech pals tell me it usually takes about 300-foot pounds to achieve that. One Jeep dealership (no longer in business) used to re-use the old crush sleeve when doing a pinion bearing. They would torque the pinion nut back to around 275 foot-pounds, and it seemed to work okay. 500 foot-pounds? Be sure to let us know how long your pinion bearings last.

The crush sleeve is what controls the preload. You're supposed to use a new one even when replacing the pinion bearing or the pinion seal. You definitely need a new one when re-gearing. What torque did you use when trying to set the new crush sleeve, and what torque did you use on the old one when you put it in?

Tenneco is a huge conglomerate that happens to own Monroe and Rancho. If Rusty is calling his shocks "Tenneco," that means he's selling a cheapie Monroe or Rancho and doesn't want you to know it.

Rusty's long arm kit is really booty fab, redneck "engineering." If you want to go that high and use long arms, get Clayton's long arm kit.

Stabilizer is useless on old gas. It can't bring it back to life. Either drive off the old gas, or siphon it out and pour in fresh stuff.

Yes he can. My dealer can, and they all have the same system. He just doesn't want to bother. My dealer's parts guys like old Cherokees and Comanches. They'll check parts for me. The dealer computer parts system will not only tell them what's in the warehouse, it also tells them what's in other dealers' stock. I needed a rear bumper mounting bracket (don't recall which side) awhile back. Discontinued, of course. They found me one at a dealer in Arizona, one in Seattle, and one in New Hampshire. Gave me all three phone numbers and let me make the best deal I could find.

The internal spring is a very (as in VERY) thin, flat sheet metal spring, like on those little froggy clickers we had when I was a kid. Mine broke. No way to repair it. The only fix is to replace the seat belt. The driver's side has a circuit in it to sense when the belt is buckled and sound the warning chime if it isn't buckled. That adds big $$$ to the cost. I snipped the wires off the old belt, short-circuited them together, and just jumpered the warning chime so it never sounds (I always wear the seatbelt anyway, even across a parking lot). The passenger side belt cost about 1/3 what the driver's side would have cost me.

Go Renix, with 24-pound HO injectors.

Gawd! Use smaller pictures next time. Not only do those take forever to load, even with a 19" monitor I have to scroll around to see everything.

John, that overlap is a mixed blessing. Assuming that you are welding from the top, you are leaving an open seam on the bottom, and that's going to attract dirst and moisture -- and in PA, salt in the winter. Before you get the truck back on the road, I strongly suggest you get underneath and seal all those edges with caulk. Otherwise, you'll be practicing your welding skills again in a very short while.

There are so many possibilities regarding DW that I wouldn't know where to start. And there's no agreement among Jeepers. I'm firmly in there with CWLONGSHOT -- something has to set off DW, and IMHO that something is USUALLY tire balance. But once it starts, other factors may play into how badly the problem escalates. I've driven my '88 XJ for thousands of miles with a front tire that was out of balance and would start jumping at 55 MPH -- and I could drive right trhough it until it smoothed out at 65. And I've head DW in the 88 MJ that was so bad at 50 MPH that there was no possibility of even TRYING to drive through it. Caster angle is a big one. You need probably 7 or 8 degrees of caster, but if you're lifting then you have to balance caster angle with pinion angle, and you may have to settle for around 6 degrees and hope for the best. Another point is that DW is a harmonic. The wobble usually starts in one wheel. Sometimes, like with my XJ, it stays there and never becomes DW. It becomes DW when a wobble or shimmy in one wheel is transmitted to the opposite wheel and starts that one shimmying at the same frequency. Why does one vehicle do it and another not? Could be that one has more loose tie rod ends, etc. Could be how well the shocks dampen the oscillations. Could be that the spring rate (coil springs have a natural frequency) happens to coincide with the frequency of the shimmy. Could be warped brake rotors. Start with tire balance. Beyond that, it ain't easy.

I would start by checking the drive gear in the transfer case. It's on the side of the tailshaft (output shaft) housing. The gear is nylon and, as already pointed out, it could have been stripped. Pay attention to the orientation of the hosing (the "quill") that fits into the transfer case to hold the gear. It's eccentric, and it has to be oriented to certain positions depending on how many teeth the gear has. I don't know if this is covered in your Haynes manual.