Eagle

Now how did he know that? I don't think there's a cure. Wear thick socks and turn up the stereo.

You are correct. Almost. It counts ignition pulses, but not limited to one cylinder. It does make a difference if it's a 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder engine. These are 4-stroke engines, so for one revolution a 4-banger has 2 pulses, and a 6-cylinder has three. Lets say the tach counts 600 pulses. If it's a four cylinder tach, it's going to report that as 300 RPM. If it's a six-cylinder tach, it'll report it as 200 RPM.

So what am I, chopped liver? I still have five MJs in the fleet, even after passing three of them on to other people.

The '88 uses a white nylon push connector to hold the speedo cable into the speedo. The older ones used a metal connector with a retaining screw. Either all 87s used the old style, or 87 was a swing year and the change was made mid-year. You'll have to verify which type of speedo connection is in the cluster you want to use. I can't remember if it's possible to swap the speedos between the two cluster types.

Keep in mind there are 3 generations of cluster. 1 = 84 - 87 2 = 88 - 90 3 = 91 - 96 The first two both use a mechanical speedo and can be monkeyed around to interchange, but it's best to get one from the same year range as your vehicle. The electronic speedo version obviously won't work with a mechanical speedo drive, plus Chrysler reversed the polarity on the gauges so that's completely out of consideration as an interchange. For the 84 - 87 tachometer, you MUST get one from the same engine as your vehicle, there is no adjustment for 4 or 6 cylinder. For the 88 - 90, there is a potentiometer on the back of the tach that you can use to set it for 4-cyl or 6-cyl.

UCA bolts are 10mm, lowers I thought were 12mm. But 12mm would be slightly smaller than 1/2" not slightly larger. The holes in the frame at the upper control arm mounts should not be 1/2". If you put 10mm or 3/8" bolts in a 1/2" hole there's no way you will be able to stop the bolt (and arm) from shifting and clunking.

Whose lower control arms do you have in? At stock height I had a clunk in the '87 MJ, and replacing the driver's side LCA cured it. Rusty's adjustable control arms are notorious for clunking.

No title? Well, then ... I'm not interested.

Weber. Rusty's sells it (or used to).

They are both 5-speeds and 5th gear is an overdrive. The ratios aren't spot-on the same, but pretty close. I can look them up if you really need the exact numbers, but I don't have them handy.

The 2.8L V6 doesn't have any ECU. The carburetor (which is a POS) isn't computer controlled, like the one on the 84 & 85 2.5L. Best bet is to just replace the stock V6 carb with an aftermarket. There also isn't any CPS to worry about.

Lean makes hot, not rich. Rich just wastes fuel and fouls plugs.

In a 4-cylinder, both the '86 and the '87 will have the Renix throttle body injection, so mechanically they are about the same. As noted, though, if you think you may want to upgrade to a 4.0L in the future, the '87 or '88 will have the engine compartment properly shaped to accept it. The '86 won't -- and reports of how much "massaging" is necessary range all the way from "not a damn thing" to "I had to cut out the entire firewall and reweld it." I know a guy in Rhode Island who had his '86 converted. He took it to a Jeep shop -- not a dealer, an independent who specializes in Jeeps. After serious consideration, their solution was to chop the two vehicles in half through the front door opening, and weld the '88 front onto the '86 rear half. YMMV

Between 90 and 91, Chrysler even reversed the polarity on the gauges (as well as tinkering slightly with the ohm range within which the gauges operate). Unfortunately, at this point you have no choice. You HAVE to get the wiring diagrams for both years and manually trace each circuit. The other choice (if it isn't too late) would be to completely divorce the engine from the rest of the vehicle. Remember, Chrysler used to sell an EFI conversion for the 4.2L/258 carburetted engine in the early Wranglers. All that conversion was, was the injection, ignition and ECU from a 94 or 95 injected Wrangler packaged with a replacement intake manifold. You can make the engine run stand-alone and not muck around with the chassis wiring.

I don't run TrueTracs front and rear, but I run a TrueTrac in the rear and I live in New England. My MJ with the TrueTrac alternates with my XJ with TracLok for daily driver duty, and the MJ mostly wins weekend duty because in my town we take our own trash to the transfer station unless you can afford a commercial hauler. (I can't) I don't think I ever used 4WD this past winter. The TrueTrac with BFG ATs pulled me through anything I encountered. And the nice thing about a TrueTrac in front is that, if you don't engage 4WD, the TrueTrac never engages so it's completely transparent. I think you could be very happy with a TrueTrac living back there.

Yeah, you need it. The Renix setup is such that the ignition defaults to full advance, and when that sensor "hears" the motor start to ping it retards the timing until it doesn't "hear" ping anymore. Some are more sensitive than others. The one in my '88 XJ is a replacement and I never hear anything from that. The one in my '88 MJ is (I think) the original. It is intact, but I can't put my foot in it going up any kind of a hill or I get constant, light pinging.

You already have the MJ front combo valve. However, it's function is different from that in an XJ. In the XJ the front valve is both the brake system failure warning light switch and the proportioning valve. In the MJ, it's the brake system failure warning light switch and a by-pass to allow full pressure to the rear brakes if the front brakes fail. Under normal conditions, fluid/pressure is sent to the rear brakes through that height-sensing proportioning valve. To by-pass (eliminate) it is easy. First, either run a new brake line from the fitting on the "nose" of your front combo valve body directly to the hose from the chassis to the rear axle, or Trace the line from the nose to the rear, and somewhere near the back cut it and flare it, then run a short section of new line to the rear flex hose. I recommend using all new line from the front because the steel hard line to the rear seems prone to rust, and they eventually pop right about where the run past/over the fuel tank. Having run a single line from the combo valve block to the rear flex hose, you can now either ignore the rear height-sensing valve and whatever tubing is left, or remove it. I'd remove it; why haul excess junk around, and give some mechanic or inspector an excuse to ask why you disabled it? Now, there will be a left-over line or empty outlet at the front bottom of the combo valve body. This outlet was the line that would by-pass the rear height-sensing valve if the front brakes failed. You no longer need a by-pass, because you now have full braking to the rear, all the time. You need to plug that outlet. You can search around for a brass plug to fit it, or ... ... you can go to Lowe's or the auto parts store and buy the shortest 1/2" x 20 bolt you can find, along with a 1/2" O-ring. Bring them home, put the bolt in a vise, and cut it down to 1/4" in length. Slip the O-ring on it, screw it into the blank outlet on the bottom of your combo valve, and tighten it enough to make the O-ring seal. This isn't highly critical, because nothing goes to that port unless the front brakes fail, so normally there won't be any leakage. If it weeps a bit in the unlikely event that it gets triggered, so what? As long as it's tight enough to maintain pressure you'll be okay.

Nope. I'm an architect and I was a member of the AIA for 30 years. Home builders either have a contract their attorney wrote up (which obviously favors them), or they use one put out by one of the several national or regional home builders' associations. (Which also are heavily tilted in favor of the builder.) AIA contracts come in only when it's a true custom house that was designed by an architect who is working for the owner (not the builder), AND when the architect is in control of the bidding process. It doesn't sound like that's the situation here. Either way ... lawyer up, now.

That would be your knock sensor. Replacing it ASAP would be a good idea. Do you get a lot of PING when driving? I can't imagine how you can even drive it with no knock sensor, unless you keep the radio turned up so you don't hear the engine destroying itself.

The FSM has a rather involved section about adjusting it, and the adjustment involves replacing some small parts that probably aren't available even from a dealer. Most likely you could hook up a rod to it without replacing the small parts, but I think it's wiser to eliminate it. I suggest that because the one in my '88 blew out in a panic stop situation. Having had that happen once, I won't trust another one. It's actually a duplicate hydraulic circuit and there is a way to eliminate it completely. Two ways, actually, one using the MJ front combo valve and one using an XJ (Cherokee) front combo valve. There are advantages and disadvantages to both ways. Let us know if you're interested.

He is in breech of contract, but you WILL need an attorney to be able to force him to make good on it. You can bet he has an attorney, and if you as a rookie go up against his attorney by yourself, you're going to be chopped liver. My first question is why your lender is setting any closing dates with this clown? The contract (as I understand it) is between YOU and the builder, and it is YOU who will be closing. Any negotiations should be between you and the builder (or between your attorney and his attorney). Your lender should stay out of it except to answer any questions you might ask. Second, if you have a contract specifiying a closing date, and delays on the part of the builder have resulted in a higher mortgage rate, you have incurred (or will incur) financial harm as a result of his actions. He is responsible for that. I would think that the amount of extra money this is going to cost you over the life of the mortgage can be calculated, and he should pay you that as damages. But ... you're going to need a lawyer to make that stick.

The stroker uses the AMC 258 (4.2L) crankshaft. You should be able to verify that it's a stroker by probing through any spark plug hole and measuring the top-to-bottom travel, then comparing against a stock 4.0L. You won't get an accurate number, but you will be able to see if it's the same as your 4.0L or greater. I am concerned about the "California" part. The only company I know of in California that's selling stroker Jeep engines is Clifford Performance Research. Back when I was your age and my friends were running Hudson-powered stock cars, Jack Clifford was THE go-to guy for speed parts, and he then went on to offer some fantastic stuff for the AMC engines. But -- Jack was an older guy when I was a younger guy. He sold the business a number of years ago and has since passed away, and I have heard some absolutely horrendous stories on the old Strokers forum about what has come out of that shop under the guise of "professionally-built" strokers, for really big bucks. If the paperwork says Clifford -- I would seriously consider walking away regardless of how attractive the price might seem.

It depends on where you camp. Out west, there's always a chance of a bear wandering into your camp. Of course, guns are illegal in national parks, but they generally ARE legal if you camp in national forests. And in recent years there have been more and more two-legged predator attacks on campers ...

Good start. Now, for a REAL self-defense weapon ... The "50 caliber 45" ... Guncrafters Industries 50GI. It's a 1911 pistol custom manufactured to shoot .50 caliber ammo instead of that sissy .45 caliber stuff. (No, it isn't mine ... but I did get to test it. It is about the sweetest pistol I have ever seen.)

Everything you plan to swap will require customization. The door latches will be different, and at a different height (I think. I'm pretty sure that change was made in '95 or '96). The steering column in the '96 will be a Chrysler, with an airbag. Totally different from your MJ, and will NOT be easily adapted to a clumn shift (if it can be adapted at all, which I sort of doubt). The seats will be completely different, because they redesigned the floor pan and seat mounts in the XJ as of '95. Other than that, you're on a roll ...