Eagle

Your scoutmaster must have been related to mine. It's been a good many years, but I am still of the opinion that if the knot looks like a bowline when finished, it doesn't really make a lot of difference how it got that way. In my case, my sailing instructor was an Englishman who had sailed solo around the world. He definitely knew his stuff, even if my idiot scoutmasters didn't agree with him.

You guys put me to shame. I went through Cub Scouts all the way, but I quit Boy Scouts after a couple of years. I was a sailing instructor in the summers, taught "marlinspike seamanship" (knot tying, splicing, rigging, all that good stuff) to a whole bunch of people -- and they failed me for my knot tying merit badge because they didn't like the way I tied a bowline (I tied it by the book, then and now). So I quit in a huff, and never went back. But I was post advisor to an Explorer post for a few years, a long time afterwards.

The shifter for the YJ Wrangler bolts directly to the transfer case and seems to be much more positive in operation. Unfortunately, with the stock Wrangler shift lever there's a bit of an interference fit with the ashtray, but with some heating and bending, or perhaps cutting and welding on an offset lever, you'd have something that might be what you're looking for. My '88 has a YJ shifter in it -- it was that way when I bought it, and I plan to remove it and install an XJ/MJ shifter so I can patch the floor back together where the butcher (errr ... "previous owner") hacked it up. If you want the YJ shifter, you're welcome to it for the price of shipping. How much of a hurry are you in?

Good point. The turn signals use a separate blinker "can" than the hazrads, so the fact the hazard blinkers work normally doesn't prove much. By all means, try a new blinker. As a check, you can just swap the two -- they fit the same socket.

Heh, heh ... six of one, half a dozen of the other. Either tear the engine apart or tear the vehicle apart. But you make a good point. It's a function of what you're most comfortable doing. I hate tearing apart a perfectly good interior, and with all the miles of spaghetti in a modern vehicle, to me replacing the entire wiring harness rates right up there on my scale of favorite things to do next to getting run over by a truck, or falling out of an airplane without a parachute. On the other hand, the engine will already be out of the vehicle. If you'd drop the '92 engine in without tearing it down if you were swapping the wiring, why would you need to tear it down if you DON'T swap the wiring? Leave the short block intact, and just swap the head and manifolds. There are people who have just used the Renix manifolds on a complete HO engine, but the ports don't match and to me that's a bastardized solution. Taking off one head and putting on another seems to me a LOT less work than gutting the entire interior and replacing all the wiring. Take your pick.

I think your problem is the parking light sockets. The ground has gone bad, so they either won't work or they try to find a ground by back-feeding through the dash indicator lights.

The block is the same, so bolting the engine into your truck is easy. Beyond that it gets more complicated. The entire ignition and injection system is different, the manifolds are different, the CPS and flywheel (or flex plate, if it's an automatic) are different. If I were doing it, I would put the Renix flywheel, head and manifolds on the '92 short block and keep it a Renix. Otherwise, you're looking at a whole lot of wiring and makeshift adaptation.

Looks like I'm a little late, but ... CONGRATULATIONS!

For anyone looking into this for me, I don't think that even at academic prices I can afford full AutoCAD -- especially since I would need the Architectural Desktop version, not plain vanilla AutoCAD. What I'm looking for is AutoCAD LT 2007 (or 2008, if there is such a critter). I could probably do okay with AutoCAD LT 2006 if that's all that's available. Thanks again for checking, guys. I appreciate it.

I've been wanting to build one of those out of one of the XJ hulks I have around here for about 5 years, but I don't have the time or money or workshop to pursue it. I wouldn't use a longbed box though, I'd use a stock shortbed. That one is very nicely executed, though.

JeepCo, what he's really saying is that (as usual) there are too many variables to answer your question directly. Until you know what you have to start from, you can't assess what something else will give as a result. His answer is, basically, that you'll have to remove one of the factory springs and measure its free arch before you know what your starting point is. It's like the dweebs who tell ya to "throw in a set of ZJ V8 springs and you'll get 2" of lift/" Yeah, sure. Was that ZJ 5.2L, ZJ 5.9L, with or without Up Country suspensions ...? Not to mention that if you started with an XJ that had Up Country, a standard ZJ V8 spring is the same part number, so someone who follows such advice blindly could spend a bit of money and waste a bunch of time for exactly zero gain. According to what HellCreek has provided, one size does not fit all.

Try siphon bleeding rather than pressure bleeding? I've seen those "Mighty Vac" brake bleeder kits somewhere recently, perhaps Auto Zone or maybe even Wal-Mart.

Writing in coherent English might be a good start. Posts looking to buy belong in the classifieds, anyway. Case closed.

Unless he took your money for those parts, I'd be inclined to think that he doesn't think you bought them, and the police and local prosecutor probably wouldn't think so, either. What you're telling us is that you intend to commit larceny. Your choice. I value my self-worth more than to engage in stealing.

Tenneco is Monroe ... and Rancho. The complete Monroe catalog is available on-line, and at the back are the physical specs for each shock, including the compressed and extended lengths and the end fittings. Pick the one you want.

Clogged catalytic converter. Been there, done that.

There's no difference by engine. Between the 86-90 and the 91+ there is a tiny difference in length. We tried to measure it or see it one day up at the dealership and we couldn't see it, but when I put a '93 track bar on my '88 XJ the steering wheel was about a quarter turn off and had to be re-centered. Works fine, though.

Fuel pumps don't click -- they whirr. First thing to check is if you're getting voltage to the fuel pump with the ignition on. (It won't be 12 volts because of the ballast resistor, it'll be about 9 volts.) Just unplug the connector in the wiring harness about 15" out from the pump. If there's no current at the pump, check the fuel pump relay and the ballast resistor. Don't dive into replacing the pump until you know that it's the problem.

That's all you need. A '94 valve is going to be almost 14 hears old by the time you get it, though. When you get it, remove the plug in the "nose" (CAREFULLY! - there's a strong spring in there) and clean out the passge thoroughly. Be sure the rubber O-ring is clean and flexible. Many people in the XJ universe actually remove the O-ring and spring, and shove the plunger all the way forward. What that does is deactivate the proportioning function. You don't need to replace the MJ combo valve if you don't want proportioning, so use the XJ valve but be sure the plunger will move or you won't have any rear brakes at all. (I know this first-hand, from my '88 XJ.)

Thanks for trying. Please let me know if you find anything.

What's a hampster? I always thought that was somebody from one of the Hampton-named towns on Long Island (NY). Oh! You meant hamster, one of those little furry critters like my sister used to have when she was a kid.

Is anyone a full-time student who can buy software at "academic" prices? I occasionally use AutoCAD LT, but not enough to justify dropping lots of money to stay current. My newest version is 2000, and it's getting to where clients on the current versions of AutoCAD can't even save back to a format I can open, so I guess I need to buy a new copy (AutoCAD LT 2000 is too old to qualify for upgrade pricing). The current price for LT 2008 is $899 ... which ain't gonna happen. If anyone is a full-time student who can qualify for the student price, would you be kind enough to check into the academic price? If it's lower by enough that I could actually afford to buy it, would you be willing to buy a copy for me and ship it on if I send you the money? Thanks

Kenwood generally seems to offer one or two models that don't have blue or multi-color displays. I have a Pioneer in the 88 with the blue backlit display. It's okay during the day, but driving at night with the radio on makes me nuts. The display reflects off the rear window and right into the mirror. Those displays should not be legal. They don't even have the common decency to put a dimmer on them.

A 235/75R15 has a cross-section width of 9.25" -- it'll be just fine on an 8" rim and that's well within the rim range listed on the manufacturers' charts. The backspacing is going to be a problem, though. They WILL smash into your fenders when you try to turn. The factory rims are 7" with 5-1/4" backspacing. 235s work well with no lift on the factory rims but they do NOT work well if you have less backspacing.

I don't know what you've got, but there is no blue relay that controls the dimmer switch. The dimmer is built into the headlight switch, and it's a good, old-fashioned rheostat (no, not "potentiometer," rheostat).