Eagle

TRE boots are cheap. They're in the HELP! section at Pep Boys and Auto Zone.

Just get a floor shifter assembly from a Cherokee.

You need an '87 or newer 4.0L with automatic. The D35s didn't have tags. You'll have to pull the cover and check the tooth count (which is stamped in the edge of the ring gear) if you want to confirm the ratio before buying.

The problem is, with a frozen engine the best you can hope for is that both valves will be closed on maybe two out of six cylinders. On the others, you'll just be pumping grease into the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold.

The MJ doesn't use dedicated amber turn indicators like the XJ, so the wiring is completely compatible with the 4-wire simple, basic trailer connector. No logic box needed, just a straight splice. I did mine on the left side, near where the wires feed the left side taillight. I don't recall which color goes to which on the trailer connector, but it's not hard to trace.

He just didn't put in any pictures of it in slammed mode. Did you read the description, about pumps and hydraulics and switches? He's not talking about light switches, amigo. This baby's a gen-yoo-wine California low rider that'll sit at a traffic light and make like a Mexican jumping bean. I'll bid $50 and he can keep the wheels and tires.

Correction -- '89 was the transition year. I have an '89 2WD 4.0L MJ that has an AX-15 in it, and since the floor cutout is different from that in an '88 with the Peugeot, I'm 99.9 percent certain it's factory.

The tire size you run will determine what your optimal gearing is, although if you can't use 5th gear at 55 to 65 MPH in level terrain, you must have a very sick engine, because the '87 4.0L has a torque peak that's down around 2000 or 2200 RPM and a 65 MPH cruise in 5th gear is right in the fat part of the torque curve. Nonetheless ... 31" tires with 3.73 gears is exactly the same overall final drive ratio as stock tires with 3.55 gears. I originally bought the 3.73s for use with 30" tires, but ended up running 31s instead. It's quite driveable, but 4.10s would have been better. If you run anywhere near stock tires (i.e. 225/75 or 235/75) 3.73s will be a good compromise between performance and fuel mileage.

What he has in it is what he has in it. It isn't fair to consider only the cost of the parts when looking at work recently done. Suppose you had a vintage, classic Corvette that you sent out and had totally restored from the frame up. That job might cost you $20,000 at a decent restoration shop. Would you say it's only worth $500 because that's what the paint and fiberglass cost? The owner can ask whatever price he wants, and he can justify his asking price any way he wants, or not justify it at all, just say 'That's my price because that's what I'll sell it for." If we don't want to pay that much, we don't buy that truck. End of discussion. Looking at it from the other side, 300,000 kilometers is about 180,000 miles. Not exactly brand new, but far from worn out for a Jeep 4.0L if even reasonable care was taken of it. If the body and running gear are in good shape, it's easily worth $4100. What would a new Ranger with a 6-cylinder engine cost? In general, if the engine starts and it moves under its own power its usually worth at least $500. Factor in a good body and a bunch of recent work and the price goes up quickly.

If the problem is valve float, look up the Mopar Performance Catalog on-line and order up a set of their dual-coil valve springs for the 4.0L. That should solve any valve float problems, and you don't even need to remove the head to change valve springs. To be honest, though, I don't see why you want more RPM. The torque peak is at 2200 RPM or so, and I'm sure the valves don't flaot until over 5,000 RPM. By the time you float the valves, you're so far out of the power curve of the engine you might as well be on Mars.

Before you go replacing sensors, be sure the problem is the sensor rather than the gauge. With the ignition on (engine doesn't need to be running, but it can be), remove the wire from the temp sensor. Look at the gauge. It should be pegged either to full hot or full cold (I don't recall which way it goes at the moment). Now jumper the wire directly to a good ground on the body or engine block. Look at the gauge again. It should have moved all the way to the opposite end of the scale. If it did not, either the gauge itself is bad or there's a break in the wire between the sender and the gauge.

DO NOT even consider going more than .060 over stock bore unless you have the block checked to be absolutely certain there was no "core shift" during casting. Otherwise, you risk breaking through into a water jacket, which would then mean either scrapping the block or sleeving it. Even if you can go to .090 over or 4.00 inches, that doesn't leave much metal for heat transfer and you'll get hot spots and cooling problems. For all practical purposes, .060 over is the maximum for a useful stroker.

The computer will be fine, but I can almost guarantee that you WILL need larger injectors. The injectors in the "new" 4.0L engine are sized for ... a 4.0L engine. You're increasing it to 4.5 liters if you don't bore it, or 4.6 liters if you punch it .030 oversize (which you will probably need to do to get the cylinders round again). And then you're tossing in a cam that flows more volume on top of the displacement increase. I doubt the stock HO injectors can handle all that.

We're getting closer to the start of the academic year, so I'd like to renew my request. The need is becoming more critical, but (unfortunately) the available cash is not increasing commensurately so I really REALLY need to find someone who can buy this program at a student rate. Any full-time students willing to drop an e-mail to Autodesk and ask if they offer student pricing for AutoCAD LT 2007? I'd really appreciate it.

Probably different year. Jeep changed the design in (I believe) 1990 so the trim strip across the top of the grille and headlight doors was integral with those parts (respectively) rather than being three individual chrome(like) parts. The header that works with those parts is different than the header for the separate trim strips.

Well, that is (I assume) $1200 Canadian, so the equivalent in American dollars would be a bit less. But not enough less to make it at all reasonable. I bought a completely mint shortbed box, complete with taillights and bed liner, for $500 a couple or three years ago. I thought that was a fair price.

You don't. There is NO need to remove the tachometer to get at the speedometer cable. The speedo cable is a push-on connection to the speedometer head. You squeeze the two sides of the white nylon retainer and the cable comes right off the speedo.

For valve springs I recommend going to the Mopar Performance Catalog. They have excellent dual-coil valve springs for the 4.0L engine, and usually the stuff through the MPC is much cheaper than comparable parts through "name" companies. Not necesarily. If the engine was set up for conventional vee belts, the snout will likely have to be cut. If the engine originally had a sepentine belt it won't have to be cut. Physically, yes. But they won't flow enough for a 4.6 with a cam, so you'll need injectors with more output. Yes. Yes. You said you have the entire harness for the "new" motor. You'll need it. No. The spline count on the transfer case input shaft is different. You'll need a transfer case from a '91 or newer.

Yes, the change was between 90 and 91. The 86-90 was a Renix-based system, 91 and up was Chrysler.

Just pull the starter motor and take it to Auto Zone or Advance Auto (or Checkers, or Shucks, depending on where you live) and have them bench test it. It sounds like you have a bad starter. However, it's also possible that the engine is all rusted up inside and the starter doesn't have enough power to make it turn. Remove the spark plugs, put a wrench on the crank pulley bolt, and see if you can turn the engine over by hand.

Are you sure of the year and engine in the Wrangler? The Cherokee and Comanche went over to the Chrysler injection/ignition system beginning in model year 1991. I thought the Wrangler was changed over to the MPFI 4.0L the same year. If it's a 4.2L it'll have a carburetor, and despite the added cubic inches the 4.2L puts out less power and (I think) less torque than the injected 4.0L.

With a fresh battery, it's possible to drive normal short hops for several days without the alternator putting any charge back in the battery.

It should be on the tag on the edge of the driver's door, and also on the metal VIN plate under the hood. An early '88 might have that on the firewall, above the brake booster. Otherwise it's on the upper radiator cross-brace.

I think Pete's on the right track. You didn't say what you did about transmissions and bell housings, but the flywheel and CPS for the 91+ Chrysler engines is totally incompatible with the flywheel and CPS for the 87-90 Renix system.

The MJ doesn't have amber turn signals, so it's all set for a direct splice connection to a flat 4-wire trailer connector. Remember, that's 4 wire. There's no such thing as a 2-wire trailer connection. You need one wire for taillights, one for left brake/turn, one wire for right brake/turn, and a ground.