Eagle

Yes. (Same answer I gave the first time you asked.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_60°_V6_engine

Nope. I haven't noticed any deformity, but I wasn't looking for it. If it was there, it was very minor.

I get my U-bolts custom made from a commercial truck spring shop. They'll make them in any size I want (but SAE/imperial sizes, not metric). They all have thick washers and double-length nuts. I have to disagree with you on the appropriateness of the 5/8" U-bolts. Your truck isn't any heavier now than it was before you swapped the axle. If the factory thought 14mm was adequate for a pickup rated to carry a full ton, then a 9/16" U-bolt (which is already larger than a 14mm) would certainly be adequate for just about anything. What makes the 5/8" inappropriate IMHO is that you had to drill out the holes in the reinforcing plates. That means anyone wanting to replace the U-bolts with the correct 14mm U-bolts in the future would have a sloppy fit. Not the end of the world, but not right, either. I'm all in favor of strengthening beyond factory specs, but I'm not in favor of going farther than necessary, and generating other (otherwise unnecessary) modifications in the process.

60-degrees is the angle between the two banks of cylinders, it has nothing to do with the bell housing. But, yes, the 2.8L, 3.1L and 3.4L are all based on the same 60-degree block design. The GM 4.3L is a 90-dgree design, which is why those engines are so much wider.

Unless it has been removed, the MJ has a height (load) sensing proportioning valve located above the rear axle. The purpose is to reduce the braking power at the rear wheels when the truck is empty, to help alleviate the problem of rear brake lock-up causing a spin-out. There are TWO lines to the rear brakes, one for normal (proportioned) braking, the other is a bypass that sends full power to the rear brakes if the front brakes fail. One or the other of those lines often rusts out, usually where they run above the gas tank. Because of the safety bypass feature, there is a special procedure needed to bleed the rear brakes. The owner probably doesn't know that. My guess is that one or both of the lines to the rear brakes is/are rusted out.

^^^ This. That "carriage bolts" just jumped off the page at me when I read it. And I'm pretty sure 1/4" is too small. Check the size of the holes in the springs -- I think they're either 5/16" or 3/8". Factory MJ U-bolts are 14mm. Factory XJ U-bolts are 12mm. 14mm is approximately 0.55118". A 9/16" is 0.5625". Those 5/8" U-bolts are serious overkill.

Quarter window? MJs don't have quarter windows. Are you talking about the triangular front side window?

That actually could be repaired by chopping the roof off and splicing on a "new" roof from a rust bucket donor vehicle. It could possibly even be done using a roof and partial A pillar sections from an XJ. I hope it doesn't get sold for parts. It should be put back on the road.

Duty, hell. You're FAMILY, man. We (most of us, anyway) care what happens to our MJ brethren. That's definitely a bummer -- probably even worse than my two medical crises a couple/few years back. I'll add you to my prayer list. Let us know what the doctors figure out, and take care of yourself.

Yes.

But the coolant at the port will be 15 degrees cooler.

Could you make it by starting with a ball flare (like for newer brake lines) and then gradually flatten out the ball into that flange?

Slight correction: you will not need to "add" sensors, you will need to replace them. The coolant temp and oil pressure senders for the idiot lights are simple ON-OFF switches. The senders for gauges go in the same locations but they are variable resistance sensors.

It won't make any difference. The purpose of a thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. If it idles at 215 with a 195 degree thermostat, it will idle at 215 with a 180 degree thermostat.

None. Undercoat traps moisture and promotes rust. Google up POR-15.

i respectfully submit that the thread should be nothing but a repository for drawings, or links to drawings. As soon as it's open to discussion the information will get buried in the noise. I've watched exactly that happen in a 1911 forum, in a thread that was supposed to be a repository of information about magazines. At this point ... good luck sifting through the detritus to find the data.

Looks boss to me.

Pete, I like the idea of creating a separate area specifically for drawings, templates, 3-D printer files, etc. If it's too much work to add a new area to the forum, what would you guys think about creating a new sticky thread at the top of this discussion area and using it only to post drawings (NO discussion, questions, etc. -- just drawings, or links to files)?

Absolutely. If it's running, drive it. Just keep in mind that when the 2.8L dies, the 3.4L (NOT 4.3L) is the easiest, simplest, and probably the most economical replacement. Just be sure you get a 3.4L out of a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Are you using 4.0L rods or 4.2L rods? Are the pistons custom designed to match up to the proper deck height to avoid excessively high compression ratio?

No, it's not really that bad ... it's much worse. The best/easiest swap is a GM 3.4L V6 out of a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird. It's the same basic block, but a MUCH improved engine.

What's "level 5" on your stove? My range is electric. Level 5 isn't "warm it up level," level 5 for me is full power, if you let the water boil out the pot melts hot.

No, he won't. Look at his first photo of the rear axle. They left the original spring perches on the axle. All he has to do is remove the u-bolts, move the axle back on top of the springs, and replace the u-bolts. The front has drop brackets, which will have to be removed. The track bar also has a drop bracket, so he'll need a factory bracket for the frame (driver''s side) end, and a stock track bar and stock control arms. And stock-length shock absorbers on both ends. Looks like the rear bump stops are completely gone. Those should be replaced, as well, although it can be driven without them. Just don't load it heavily.

Why? Do you do any type of off-road driving where you would need to use 2-wheel drive in low range? If not, save your money and just lock the front axle in the engaged position permanently. Jeeps with the Selec-Trak transfer case don't have the front axle disconnect, and the factory stopped using it with the Command-Trak transfer case around 1991. It will not hurt anything to drive in 2WD with the front axle engaged.

Remember that you were laid off, not fired. Construction workers in certain trades go through this on an annual basis. I'm hoping (and expecting) that they'll call you back when the emergency orders are lifted and people are allowed to circulate again.