Eagle

I just re-read the original post. First off, if the goal here is just to get a freebie Jeep running, I think suggestions about swapping out axles and so forth are a bit off-topic. The simple solution is just to shim the disconnect. It's free and it takes less than an hour. However, the original question seems to suggest that the disconnect is connected and staying connected, and the OP wants to make it disconnect because he thinks it is harming the transfer case. That would be wrong. Starting in 1991 Jeep eliminated the disconnect front axle in the XJ, but they kept the NP 231 transfer case. The transfer case should shift into 2WD even if the front axle stays connected ... which is why shimming the disconnect to remain permanently connected is a useful work-around for problems with the vacuum shift motor. If the transfer case is making scary noises in 2WD, I would first verify that the noises are from the transfer case, and not perhaps a partially disconnected axle. Second, I would check to verify that the transfer case linkage is adjusted correctly so that with the lever in the 2WD position, the t-case is fully disengaged from the front drive shaft.

What wiring? The wiring is all in place already. And if the '87 has the gauges, the engine will already have the correct sending units.

I have not heard of anyone replacing the stock MJ bracing with the new style XJ bracing, but when they made the changes Chrysler claimed that the new Cherokees were "significantly" (I don't remember the exact percentage they claimed) stiffer than the originals, so you may be onto something. I will be interested to see how your job turns out.

The full-size Wagoneer D44s are not an easy conversion. The front is the real bear, but for starters -- they are 6-bolt wheels, so if you have anything invested in your current wheels ... kiss it goodbye. The full-size Waggies were leaf spring in front, so you have to be prepared to either convert your MJ to leaves, or fabricate and attach all the bracketry for the coil springs and control arms on the D44 axle. Clayton's Off-Road offers (or used to offer) a kit to do just that. If he even still sells it, it'll look pricey ... until you sit down and start adding up what it'll cost you to chase down all the materials, fabricate all the pieces, then chase down and fabricate all the stuff you overlooked ... His kit is actually a bargain.

I usually use a 2 or 3-pound sledge hammer applied to the sidewall of the tire from the back side (i.e. from under the vehicle). The wheel should be jacked up, and since you'll be lying on the ground under the chassis, you need to be sure the truck is well supported. If you care about the wheel, be careful not to hit it. I had one MJ a year or so ago where that worked for three out of four, but it wouldn't "pop" the right front. Fortunately, that truck had stock steel rims and I have plenty of those, so I gave up hitting the tire and used a full-size (long handle rather than one-hand) sledge hammer applied directly to the flange of the rim. I destroyed the rim pretty thoroughly before it came loose.

The "Accesory" position is not the first click. Accessory is the opposite direction from the Run and Start positions, and does not energize either the fuel pump or the ignition. The first click toward "Start" is "Run," not "Acc." The fuel pump does run with the key in the "Run" position -- IF the pressure in the fuel rail has bled down enough to need it. If you park overnight and turn the key on (to "Run") you'll typically hear the fuel pump run for 2 to 4 seconds, until it builds pressure. If I drive one of my trucks home, shut it down, and a few minutes later turn the key to "Run," the pressure is still up and the fuel pump does not run.

You're going to put an industrial size charcoal grille on a WOOD framework? You lads better cook fast -- and carry a couple or six fully-charged fire extinguishers. That grille should be on an all-metal, welded frame, with no wood touching it.

They are. You probe each one with a multimeter. The Renix system does NOT store trouble codes. You got hosed for an $80 diagnostic that they could not possibly have run. Not necessarily. The pump stops running when the pressure in the fuel rail reaches the required pressure. If you try to start and get a fail to fire, walk away, then come back and try again before the pressure has bled down sufficiently, the fuel pump may not need to run ... so you won't hear it.

After sitting for 5 years, you have a lot of potential problems. 1. The parking brake cables are probably rusted. If the parking brake was left on, that would leave the cable rusted so that it hold the brake engaged even when you release the foot peddle. 2. The rear brake shoes may be rusted to the drums. If so, you will probably have to destroy the shoes to get the drums off. 3. The front pads are probably rusted to the rotors. You should pull the calipers, check the pads, and buff as much rust as you can off the rotors with a wire wheel or sanding disk, then reinstall.

Is that 40 miles one-way, or round trip? Either way, that works out to half a quart in either 200 miles or 400 miles, which is a quart in 400 or 800 miles. In general, a quart in 1000 miles is about normal for an older engine. A quart in 500 miles or less is excessive.

But a TJ axle is a low-pinion D30. You lose the disconnect but you also lose the high-pinion differential. For the amount of work involved in swapping an axle, plus the need then to change the calipers, I would MUCH rather just shim the disconnect and be done with it. If you do that you don't even have to get involved in axle seals. That's only for if you remove the disconnect and replace with a solid axle shaft on the right side.

The ultimate wheel chock. Some people will do anything to avoid replacing a parking brake cable.

The transfer case shifts into and out of 4WD mechanically, by the lever. No vacuum involved. When in 4WD, the transfer case then sends vacuum through a port on the transfer case to a switch on the firewall, which controls the light, and then to the disconnect motor on the axle. What I would do is remove all the vacuum stuff, shim the disconnect to the engaged position, and drive it. The position of the lever will tell you when you're in 4WD. However, you can probably keep the vacuum line to the firewall switch if you want to retain the light, and just eliminate the harness from the switch to the axle disconnect motor. There are write-ups on this site on how to permanently shim the diconnect motor, so I won't repeat.

I agree. I bought 3.73s with the intention of using them in my XJ with 30" tires. Then I picked up the '88 MJ with the lift and my brother gave me his old 31" tires, so I put the 3.73s into the MJ. Not bad for street (much better than 3.07s) but not really enough gear for 31s. Based on MPH per RPM the overall final drive ratio for 31x10.50s and 3.73 gears is exactly the same as stock tires with 3.55 gears. But ... the 31s are a lot heavier.

There should be a test port on the fuel rail. Have you tried pressing the valve to see if fuel squirts out? When you first turn the key, do you hear the fuel pump running for about 2 to 4 seconds?

I have encountered a few small-block Chevy conversions and read about some others, and I can't recall a single one that didn't have cooling problems.

You didn't mention if your MJ is 2WD or 4WD (or else I missed it). Replacing the clutch is several orders of magnitude easier if you have a 2WD.

Thanks, Pete. I'll have my wife e-mail that to her bro' and see if it's the right part.

Yes, there is a special fastener. That's the same type liner and fastener that was on my brother's Nissan. The fasteners are a large, black plastic twist-in thingie that goes into the hole and then turns either 90-degrees or 180-degrees to lock the liner to the rail. My '88 MJ has the same liner, and came w/o the fasteners. I've been driving it for about 8 years and haven't had any problems with the liner trying to blow away.

HESCO can sell you one, but you won't want to pay for it. The point of what I wrote is that the '94 engine harness can be used as a stand-alone, without changing over the entire chassis wiring harness. All Chrysler did with the 4.2L conversions was take the engine harness part and leave out the chassis harness parts. Get a '94 XJ wiring diagram.

Pay close attention to what Geonovast wrote. To expand on that: Over the years Jeep made several changes to the hubs, rotors, calipers, and steering knuckles. If you start to mix and match, you create problems. The '93 front axle will bolt right into your '87, BUT you have to use EVERYTHING from the '93 axle, including the calipers, and down the road you have to remember when buying parts (calipers, pads, hubs) to buy for the '93 axle rather than for the '87 vehicle. I've posted the rundown several times of what changes were made in what years. Gotta leave for work so I don't have time to search for it again.

Friends don't let friends drive on Rusty's parts.

The biggest issue is that the fuel gauge reads backwards on the 91+ models unless you change to a '91+ sender ... or retain the pre-91 gauge cluster. Why? Sure, a D44 would be nice, but my '88 XJ with Dana 35 has been wheeled all over the northeast, currently has 285,000 miles on it, and is my daily driver. All on the original D35. Whaddaya mean speedo cable? If you XJ has a mechanical speedometer with a cable, either it isn't a '94 or it has been monkeyed with. Chrysler changed to using electronic speedometers effective with the 91 model year. Yes, they will. Everything under the hood, but don't go nuts. Remember -- Chrysler sells (or used to sell) through the Performance Catalog a kit to convert the old, carbureted 4.2L Wranglers to MPFI. The kit was essentially the ECU, intake manifold, injection rail and wiring from a '94 Wrangler 4.0L. Which means the engine harness can used as a stand-alone in an older vehicle if you pay attention to what you're doing.

This really belongs in our Classifieds area. Please either post an ad, or don't. There's nothing here to discuss.

I would say that you probably need to discipline yourself to use the parking brake, to make certain that the parking brake is set and holding the vehicle before you put it in PARK, and to keep your foot on the brakes when shifting out of PARK. PARK is a physical pawl inside the transmission. If you are one of the new generation of drivers who grew up after they stopped teaching standard transmissions in drivers' ed, you also probably don't understand how PARK works or how much pressure is on that pawl if you use PARK as a substitute for the parking brake rather than the redundant safety device it is intended to be.