Eagle

What situation? The question was answered in that thread. They interchange. What's the question?

Sigh. I know exactly what I want/need to do with each of the MJs in the fleet. All I need is time, money, and a place to work on them ...

Si senor. es correcto. The 16 gal had 2 straps, as does the 18.5. uuuuh...i know...i was just testing you guys.. Did we pass?

But vehicles with SelecTrac had non-disconnect front axles. I would suggest removing the vacuum harness from the axle to the firewall but plugging/capping the lines at the firewall. I believe that's where the switch that actuates the 4WD light is located.

As already posted: Keep it. It's a great axle.

i thought the 23-gallon tank had three straps. No?

Yes it does. Not the sales literature, but the FSM has a chart: 4WD I-4 . . . 4-spd = 3.31 - 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . 5-spd = 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . Auto == 3.54 - 4.10 V-6 . . . 5-spd = 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . . Auto == 3.54 - 4.10 2WD was the same. Footnote says 3.31 was available only with a fuel economy package. I don't know if I believe this chart or not, though. I have an '86 XJ hulk out back that was a V-6 with automatic, and the axles are 3.73s.

The LWB Comanche came with either a 23-gallon tank or a 16-gallon tank. You may have the 16-gallon size.

Ignition key was six tumblers, doors and glove box key was five. I had the ignition key, but not the door key. It was an 87 MJ, and for sure the glove box had one tumbler less than the doors. I remember being so proud of myself, cutting the key for the glovebox, working it till the action was absolutely perfect, then :fs1: :fs2: :wall: when it did not work at all in the doors. I figured one, or both locks/doors/glovebox door had been changed, till I opened up the door lock, and saw it was exactly the same, except for having one extra tumbler (keyed the same as the glovebox, except for the extra tumbler). YMMV, but you're making me think about pulling the cylinder out of a spare glovebox door to check my sanity. :D The glove box lock may use four tumblers instead of five, but the same key operates the door locks and the glove box, and it's a five-bit key. The ignition key is a six-bit key.

Its better then a dana 35 and 8.25 but not as good as a dana 44 or a ford 8.8. Also from what I under stand, after market parts can be hard to find. Oh and I think but am not sure that it should have 4.10 gear ratio. Brandon There are some who would argue that it's better than a Dana 44. It has a larger ring gear. The downside to the AMC 20 is that it's heavy, and it has less ground clearance than the D44. It isn't difficult to find lockers and such for it -- it was used in a lot of vehicles over the years. If you have it -- consider yourself lucky. BTW -- it should also have 10" x 2-1/2" drum brakes, which are significantly larger than the standard 10" x 1-3/4" brakes on the D35.

Ignition key was six tumblers, doors and glove box key was five.

To repeat: They work. I am currently running 31x10.50-15s on an '88 XJ, which has smaller rear wheel arches than the MJ, with NO lift on the original, 287,000 mile suspension. Just buy the Rubicon tires and wheels. They'll work fine.

I shoot at a range where one of the members works at a nearby locksmith. I'm pretty sure they can make keys from the cylinders. If you're interested in sending me one or both cylinders to have him do it, let me know and I'll ask him what it would cost -- and whether he can work from one cylinder or if he needs both.

Most Comanches -- 2WD or 4WD -- had a Dana 35 rear axle. From 1986 through 1989 the Dana 35s did not use C-clips to retain the axle shafts. From 1990 through 1992 the Dana 35s were C-clip axles. The Chrysler 8.25 rear axle that was available in newer Cherokees was not used in the Comanche. In 1986 only, the standard axle was the Dana 35 and the heavy-duty axle was an AMC Model 20.

Those tires are roughly the same size as 31x10.50-15s. They'll fit okay, but you will probably find that the inside shoulders rub against the lower control arms on tight turns. We all have the same problem when running 31s on factory 15" rims, and a lift does NOT cure it.

Clogged catalytic converter?

It doesn't affect the engine, so it can't produce more (or less) power. ALL it does is change the shift points, and make the tranny engage the gears more softly (which, as noted, equates to more slippage and more wear on the bands).

Google "Distributor Index"

A locker only locks when there is power being sent to the axle. On the street, the front axle is disengaged and no power is being sent to it, so the locker should never engage.

I prefer to jack by the axle, and use jack stands as safety supports. With the chassis weight on the axle, the shocks should be sitting at the approximate mid-point of their travel range. Actually, driving up on ramps is an ideal way to access shocks for replacement.

By early style do you mean the Renix years? My 91 uses only one key for everything, including the glove compartment. Guess you could find a 91+ XJ/MJ and take all the lock cylinders out of it. I wasn't certain when Chrysler changed to one key, so I really meant "the 2-key years." Maybe that neatly corresponds to the Renix years, which ended with the 1990 model year.

You will need to replace both the door locks and the ignition to make this work. The early style ignition keys use 6 tumblers and the door keys only use 5, so they can't be keyed alike even though the ignition key will slide into the door lock.

The bed is only hald on by a few bolts. Why not just pull the whole thing and haul it home? Then it's intact and you can remove what you need more neatly and surgically.

Depending on how hard you push it and how big you plan to go on tires, I would recommend a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip in the rear. It's a mechanical limited slip rather than using clutches like the factory, and it works very well while being completely transparent on the street.

What's a super 88, and how does it eliminate the need for spacers?