Eagle

Use Rain-X ... you'll wonder why they even put wipers on cars.

Are you asking about the end of the rubber hose itself, or the flare nut on the steel line that goes into the upper end of the hose?

You park the vehicle on its wheels (or on jack stands that are supporting the axle, not the chassis), and you measure from the centerline of the lower shock stud to the centerline of the upper shock stud. That's your "at rest" position, which should fall basically at the mid-point of the shock's piston travel. Then you go to Monroe's web site and you look at the technical data in the rear of their catalog. You look for shocks that have round stud mounts top and bottom and an average length (Monroe gives the max and min IIRC) that's as close to your measured length as possible.

Yes.

IMHO the stealth deal of the millennium is right from Jeep -- the Mpoar Performance Catalog. The leaf spring perches are extremely heavy duty and unbelievably cheap. http://www.mopar.com/assets/pdf/perform ... Brakes.pdf Scroll down to page 10, top left. When you call a dealer for a price, the part number is for a pair, so you only buy quantity one (1).

The reasons I prefer the factory lug nuts are that (1) the caps are stainless steel and don't rust. I have yet to have a set of chromed aftermarket lug nuts survive a single winter without being destroyed by rust; (2) All the solid, chromed aftermarket lug nuts I've ever seen take a 13/16" socket rather than a 3/4" socket like the factory lug nuts. I carry a 4-way spanner in all my Jeeps so this isn't a major issue, but it's a PITA if all you have is the factory lug wrench ... and it won't fit your lug nuts. That said, the factory lug nuts don't survive well when shops beat on them with air-powered impact wrenches. That's why I do ALL my own tire rotations and brake work. I have an impact gun and I do not use it on the lug nuts. I use the 4-way spanner for removal, and I use a torque wrench for installation. On my '88 Cherokee that I bought new, I think all but two (maybe three) of the lug nuts are the originals, and they're still perfect.

Ummm ... not, that's not the reason. The Neutral position disconnects the transfer case from the transmission because the transmission would not lubricate properly (especially the automatic), but the transfer case will lubricate just fine -- which is why the factory procedure for flat towing is simply to put the transfer case in Neutral and go. The problem arises when the rear wheels are on the ground and need to turn, but the front wheels are on a dolly and CAN'T turn ... and the front and rear driveshafts are locked together. As mvusse pointed out, Jeep changed this a few years later, but this is true for ALL years of the MJ.

Can you post a couple of photos of what it looks like in place?

Do you have an up-scale model with a wiper delay (intermittent) feature? If so, under the dash over your left knee (IIRC) there's a wiper depay module that's inserted between the two halves of a harness connector. If you can find it, remove the delay module and see if the wipers will function in two-speed mode. If so, it's the intermittent module that's bad.

Putting the transfer case in Neutral disconnects the drive line from the transmission, but the front and rear drive shafts are locked together and rotate at the same speed. This isn't a problem when flat towing, because all four wheels are on the ground. If the front wheels are strapped to a tow dolly ... you have a problem. Simplest way to use a dolly is to drop the rear drive shaft.

You can measure your current ride height, and if it DOESN'T match the factory spec you know your springs are sagged. Top of axle tube to bottom of frame rail. 9.2" +/- 1/2" for 4WD, 8.2" +/- 1/2" for 2WD. Eagle you're correct, and I even posted that prior :( late night and tired i guess. it is much more notcible through when you pull them off and take the eye eye center measurement. I remember what my thought process was though last night Because he's SOA and just kept thinking it wouldn't work, now this morning after sleeping : the measurement procedure of top of tube to bottom of frame rail must be modified to be used with SOA, you must subtract the diameter of the axle tube and height of the original spring perch, the height of the new spring perch and I'm thinking even the thickness of your spring pack from your measurement. to get it back within a factory comparable number I suppose by using the arithmetic you just posted in the other thread about Metric Ton springs it would be easy enough to convert the factory's top-of-axle-tube number to a top-of-main-leaf number, which could then be used as a standard for both SUA and SOA evaluations. So we would take the 9.2" to the top of the axle tube, add the tube diameter plus the offset from the bottom of the tube to the perch mounting surface ... and that's the distance from a stock spring to the frame rail. That number can be used for SUA and SOA, as long as the spring mounting points haven't been altered.

You can measure your current ride height, and if it DOESN'T match the factory spec you know your springs are sagged. Top of axle tube to bottom of frame rail. 9.2" +/- 1/2" for 4WD, 8.2" +/- 1/2" for 2WD.

No, they don't. Metric Ton springs should give the same ride height as stock springs, just with more load capacity. If the springs you have generate 3 inches of lift, they are not Metric Ton springs (regardless of what their maker or vendor calls them). Have you installed either set yet? Do you know they produce 3 inches of lift, or are you assuming that because of something you read or heard?

So what do you need? "Everything" isn't very specific. Does that include the main bearing and rod bearing cap bolts, for example? Does it include head bolts? I'm not trying to be difficult, just pointing out that you're asking a VERY open-ended question that could take someone a week to research and compile.

You don't. R12 can be serviced only by licensed technicians. Anyone who sells (or gives) you R12 is breaking Federal (and probably state) law.

For? Head bolts? Flywheel bolts? Bell housing bolts? Motor mount bolts? ??? ?

The '87 - '90 4.0L valve cover is cast aluminum. Just get one from a junk ard and spend a couple of evenings polishing it.

I don't collect -- I "accumulate." Doesn't much matter what -- it all follows me home.

Good choice, IMHO

It sounds like your MJ is screwed up. The two lines run from the front to the height-sensing proportioning valve, which is mounted to the frame above the rear axle. There is only one rubber hose running from the proportioning valve to the rear axle, and that's what should be connected to the new Ford axle.

The above are correct, but what they didn't mention is that the clip for that upper stud is not in the door if you don't have the hockey stick armrests. It probably isn't available from the dealer now, so you'll need to go back to the junkyard, remove the door trim panels, and pop the stud retainers out of the doors.

Worn parts do NOT cause death wobble. As I have stated before, I have experienced true death wobble twice. Once was in the '88 MJ -- AFTER I had removed the lift and replaced just about every replaceable part in the front suspension. The issue was tire balance, nothing more. Rotated the tires and the problem never came back. The other time was in my then-new 1999 Grand Cherokee WJ, when it was maybe six months old and had well under 10,000 miles on it. All stock, had never been off-road. Death wobble kicked in at between 50 and 55 MPH when, going down a long downgrade, I touched the brakes lightly to maintain the speed limit. The rotors were warped, and that set it off. But -- the rotors were warped before the incident (I was 250 miles from home at the time) and the rotors stayed warped for weeks afterward. But that was the only time death wobble occurred.

A 6" lift and you had an alignment done? What specs was it aligned to? Did you get a printout of the final settings? One of the keys to avoiding death wobble is to have sufficient caster angle, and with a 6" lift if you have stock control arms, or even stock uppers and adjustable lowers, it's unlikely the shop could adjust the caster to within spec -- and with a lift and big tires, "within spec" may not be enough, you probably really need to be at the maximum.

The issue is that the strike location moved vertically with the new body style XJs, which means to use those doors on an MJ you have to modify the strike in the door post.

A 265/75-15 works out to 31.6" diameter by 10.4" width. Most 31s are around 30.5" in diameter, so these are approximately equivalent to a 32x10.50. On stock rims, the inner sidewall is very close to the sheet metal and to the springs. I ran 31x10.50s on my '88 for a couple of years with factory rims. I didn't have any problems on the street, but any time I took it trail riding I came home with rubber marks on the inner fenders at the rear wheels. Any spacer will alleviate this, you don't really need more than about 1/4" to 3/8" to keep a 10.50 from rubbing in the rear.