Eagle

^^^ Correct. My '88 Cherokee and my '88 Comanche both have AMC keys.

Yeah, but how? If someone wants to make his/her own reservoir, how can they create a home-brew check valve?

Do you have any way of figuring out how the check valve works? Would it be possible to duplicate it (functionally, at least) in a home-brew unit?

I'm not sure. I always thought there was a diaphragm inside/valve/ or something. I don't have any small ones to destroy, only the football sized ones. Did you get my emails?> I don't know either. Never took one apart. I always assumed (which I know is dangerous) that the ones with two ports must have a partition inside to create two chambers. Otherwise, they wouldn't need two ports, they could have run one line to the canister and teed it off where they needed the second line. I'm pretty sure there isn't a check valve. After all, the flow has to go both ways. There might be a restrictor in the orifice(s) to prevent the vacuum from getting used up too fast, but that's just a guess. I think if you're making your own replacement, bigger is better (until weight becomes an issue).

I've often thought that a good, durable vacuum canister could be made out of standard propane torch tank. They already have an opening at the top, you just have to make up an adapter to connect the vacuum tubing to.

I'm going to revise my advice on this. Since with disc fronts and drum rears the front brakes are applied before the rears, driving with very light peddle pressure will probably NOT result in enough drag to help dry out the rear shoes. I think the better solution is to make a few normal stops as soon as possible after starting out in the morning. I find this problem generally appears only in the morning, and sometimes after being parked all day at work on rainy days. The issue usually disappears after two or maybe three stops. It's definitely a function of moisture causing the brake shoe linings to swell. Semi-metalic or full-metallic brake shoes would probably eliminate it, but I haven't tried that.

All my Dana 35s do this. Also the 2000 XJs with the Mopar 8.25 axle and 9" drums.

I thought you were towing to San Diego. How does michigan fit into this?

I believe it's called a logic module. I had to use one when I installed a third brake light on my camper shell. It was either that or run a new trigger wire from a set of the NO contacts on the brake pedal switch. A logic module is used when adapting a vehicle with separate turns (like an XJ) to work with a trailer that has a flat, 4-pin connector. What does it do on your MJ's camper shell?

You have voltage but no blow. It's the blower motor, not the resistor pack.

You mentioned rain. After over half a million miles in XJs and MJs, I've learned that when the air is moist, the rear brakes typically lock up for the first stop or two. Doesn't seem to matter what brand or grade of brake shoes I use, although I wouldn't expect it with full metallic brakes. Either adapt to it, or train yourself to lightly ride the brakes for the first quarter or half mile when it's wet or humid or misty.

The speedo cable for the 84 thru 86 is different from the later models with mechanical speedo. For the early ones, you need to find one for a 4-cyl because there's no potentiometer to adjust for cylinders. You could use cluster from an 88 - 90 but you wound need a different speedo cable.

It is NOT necessary to pull the crankshaft in order to replace main bearings. The upper bearing can be pushed out and the new bearing pushed in. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about the 2.5L to answer the original question.

Quick question, If we leave one of the front calipers open while we do the rear in order o bleed the line of the proportioning valve, following this special procedure, arent we introducing air into the front brake lines? Is this procedure above correct for those of use that have a working load sensing valve at the rear of the truck?. I just ask this because using the pedal to pump the fluid will surely suck air into the open front caliper in between pumps. Or would you say to leave the front caliper open, then bleed the rears using a vaccuum pump/? This procedure was quoted directly from the factory service manual (FSM). Yes, it allows air into the front circuit. That's why it says "After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again." The procedure is for vehicles with a functional rear height sensing valve. The purpose of this procedure is to ensure that the emergency bypass circuit is properly bled.

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/

But the improvement in efficiency is created by slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator so there's more time for the heat to be transferred from the coolant through the tubes and fins and into the air. That's the reason the racers trimmed the impellers -- to make the system move LESS coolant at high RPMs. That's essentially what the restrictor is doing, and it seems to counteract the purpose of a high flow water pump.

Same idea as the old-time stock car racers trimming the impellers on their water pumps. Does this suggest that the high-flow water pump isn't a great investment?

Something doesn't sound right here. First, if you were spinning the crankshaft with no timing chain installed, you could bring #1 to TDC but it won't be on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke, because that's determined by the camshaft and the valves. Next, if you want #1 to be at TDC on the compression stroke (which you do), you should NOT be setting the cam gear to just before the intake valve opens. At TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are closed, and they STAY closed until the #1 piston has gone down, and is starting back up on its next stroke -- which is the exhaust stroke. Then the exhaust valve closes somewhere near TDC and the intake valve opens, so that as the piston goes down it sucks fuel/air mix into the cylinder. It sounds to me like you're setting it up for TDC on the exhaust stroke, and then setting the distributor to fire when there's no fuel or compression in the cylinder.

The resolution (and the refresh rate) were my concerns. I don't know (since right now there's only one minitor connected to the computer) whether Windows 7 allows dual monitors to be set for differing resolutions. Cable isn't a problem -- I have a bazillions cables around here, including a couple that will work. I know I have several VGA cables, and I'm pretty sure I have an HDMI cable as well. Computer is used for work (word processing, spreadsheet, etc.) light CADD (AutoCAD LT, 2-D only), and web surfing. No gaming.

I have a relatively new Dell Inspiron desktop computer with a Dell 23-inch flat screen monitor. Operating system is Windows 7 (factory install). The computer is set up to support dual monitors. The specific Dell monitor that shipped with the computer has been discontinued, and I don't feel like spending Dell's asking price for a mismatched monitor to try out dual screens. I have a flat screen television in the guest room that's the same screen size. It has both VGA and HDMI inputs. Is there any reason why I couldn't connect the spare television to the computer and run that as a second screen?

You don't need to carry a caliper to the bone yard. Do you have a set of open-end wrenches? If a 1" wrench will fit over it, it's a 24mm. If you have a 1-1/16" wrench, that will fit over a 26mm but not a 28mm. And a 1-1/8" wrench will fit over a 28mm.

But the drop brackets are designed to return the control arms to stock geometry with a 4-inch lift, so your 6-inch lift with brackets is equivalent to a 2-inch lift as far as control arms are concerned.

My guess is that it was NOT stock, but it doesn't matter. I prefer the floor shifter, especially with bucket seats.

The front park/turn light sockets are bad. The sockets aren't providing a normal path to ground, so when one filament needs to light up it uses the second filament as a ground path and back feeds the circuit. Seeing the dash indicators light up is the clue. There's a socket available in the HELP! aisle of the parts stores that's a direct fit. It's listed for a Ford, but it works in the XJs and MJs.