Eagle

Actually he is right at a 29" tire (28.9") now. right! its the 225 that's the 27/28. 225/75-15 is 28.3" diameter. 205/75-15 is 27.1" -- maybe that's what you're thinking of.

The Grand Wagoneer used 6-bolt hubs.

When mated to the 4-speed manual the 2.5L usually had 3.55 gears.

You don't have "15s." 15-inch only tells the diameter of the steel (or alloy) wheel rim, it doesn't tell the width (depth) of the rim or the size of the tire. The photo shows that you have 235/75-15s. That means it's a 15-inch wheel. The cross-section width of the tire at the widest point is 235mm (about 9.25 inches), and the height of the tire on one side of the rim is 75% of the cross-section width (235x.75 = 176mm or 6.94 inches). On factory wheels, 235/75-15 is the largest size tire you can run without the tires hitting bodywork somewhere. You have aftermarket rims, which probably move the tires farther out (away from the vehicle centerline) than factory wheels, so you may already have some interference. The largest tire size from the factory on an MJ was 225/75-15.

I understand that. But the vehicle drives so the torque converter obvious IS engaging. There's no way for it to NOT be "engaged," since there is no mechanism to "engage" or "disengage" it. And fourth gear is not disabled if the TCU doesn't work. The torque converter lock-up is disabled, but the 'D' position on the shifter is fourth gear, and you can manually shift into fourth.

The above is incorrect. The truck will drive with the torque converter not locking. The behavior described is exactly what will occur if the TCU isn't functioning, and the FSM test procedure tor TCU problems is is to pull the fuse and shift manually. Slipping is what an automatic transmission does -- the torque converter lockup is to eliminate the slippage at road speed. Do follow the advice to check the fuses. If the transmission drives the vehicle and shifts manually, it doesn't sound like a mechanical problem, it sounds like an electrical (or electronic) problem. With luck, it'll be one of the fuses. Otherwise, you may be looking for a TCU.

Good news. Thanks for the update.

I don't think it would matter if the check valve was inside the ball or inline, somewhere before, or on the outside of the ball. It's all about keeping the vacuum from bleeding out until it's needed (called upon). Yes, but if the check valve is in the line and can be grabbed from a junkyard (or reused), it makes fabbing a substitute canister much easier.

Put jack under front end. Measure from ground to bottom of flare. Jack up truck until it looks like you want it to look. Measure again to bottom of flare. Subtract first measurement from second measurement. That's the spacer you need. I seriously doubt it's 1-1/2 inches or more. My guess is about one inch.

Some years ago my brother gave me a set of Split-Fires for my '88 XJ. Worst spark plugs I ever ran. I replaced them with NGKs and never looked back.

^^^ Correct. My '88 Cherokee and my '88 Comanche both have AMC keys.

Yeah, but how? If someone wants to make his/her own reservoir, how can they create a home-brew check valve?

Do you have any way of figuring out how the check valve works? Would it be possible to duplicate it (functionally, at least) in a home-brew unit?

I'm not sure. I always thought there was a diaphragm inside/valve/ or something. I don't have any small ones to destroy, only the football sized ones. Did you get my emails?> I don't know either. Never took one apart. I always assumed (which I know is dangerous) that the ones with two ports must have a partition inside to create two chambers. Otherwise, they wouldn't need two ports, they could have run one line to the canister and teed it off where they needed the second line. I'm pretty sure there isn't a check valve. After all, the flow has to go both ways. There might be a restrictor in the orifice(s) to prevent the vacuum from getting used up too fast, but that's just a guess. I think if you're making your own replacement, bigger is better (until weight becomes an issue).

I've often thought that a good, durable vacuum canister could be made out of standard propane torch tank. They already have an opening at the top, you just have to make up an adapter to connect the vacuum tubing to.

I'm going to revise my advice on this. Since with disc fronts and drum rears the front brakes are applied before the rears, driving with very light peddle pressure will probably NOT result in enough drag to help dry out the rear shoes. I think the better solution is to make a few normal stops as soon as possible after starting out in the morning. I find this problem generally appears only in the morning, and sometimes after being parked all day at work on rainy days. The issue usually disappears after two or maybe three stops. It's definitely a function of moisture causing the brake shoe linings to swell. Semi-metalic or full-metallic brake shoes would probably eliminate it, but I haven't tried that.

All my Dana 35s do this. Also the 2000 XJs with the Mopar 8.25 axle and 9" drums.

I thought you were towing to San Diego. How does michigan fit into this?

I believe it's called a logic module. I had to use one when I installed a third brake light on my camper shell. It was either that or run a new trigger wire from a set of the NO contacts on the brake pedal switch. A logic module is used when adapting a vehicle with separate turns (like an XJ) to work with a trailer that has a flat, 4-pin connector. What does it do on your MJ's camper shell?

You have voltage but no blow. It's the blower motor, not the resistor pack.

You mentioned rain. After over half a million miles in XJs and MJs, I've learned that when the air is moist, the rear brakes typically lock up for the first stop or two. Doesn't seem to matter what brand or grade of brake shoes I use, although I wouldn't expect it with full metallic brakes. Either adapt to it, or train yourself to lightly ride the brakes for the first quarter or half mile when it's wet or humid or misty.

The speedo cable for the 84 thru 86 is different from the later models with mechanical speedo. For the early ones, you need to find one for a 4-cyl because there's no potentiometer to adjust for cylinders. You could use cluster from an 88 - 90 but you wound need a different speedo cable.

It is NOT necessary to pull the crankshaft in order to replace main bearings. The upper bearing can be pushed out and the new bearing pushed in. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about the 2.5L to answer the original question.

Quick question, If we leave one of the front calipers open while we do the rear in order o bleed the line of the proportioning valve, following this special procedure, arent we introducing air into the front brake lines? Is this procedure above correct for those of use that have a working load sensing valve at the rear of the truck?. I just ask this because using the pedal to pump the fluid will surely suck air into the open front caliper in between pumps. Or would you say to leave the front caliper open, then bleed the rears using a vaccuum pump/? This procedure was quoted directly from the factory service manual (FSM). Yes, it allows air into the front circuit. That's why it says "After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again." The procedure is for vehicles with a functional rear height sensing valve. The purpose of this procedure is to ensure that the emergency bypass circuit is properly bled.

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar.