Eagle

Ah, so. Sic transit gloria mundi. So maybe the best option is to just pop in a factory instrument cluster ... which the OP has stated he doesn't want to do.

The "bumper hitch" with the 2,000 pound limit was the factory step bumper. My guess is that the OP's receiver/bumper is at least as substantial as any Class II hitch that was sold for the MJ. Ditto the mounting -- all the aftermarket MJ Class II hitches mounted to the sides of the frame rails with those same three bolts on each side that the factory bumper mounted to. That said ... the MJ (and the XJ) was never rated to tow 5,000 pounds with a standard transmission. The 5,000-pound tow pacjage was only with the AW4 automatic, with heavy-duty cooling system and an external tranny cooler.

Spend the money for a Sun Super Tach and don't look back.

With an AX-15 I believe the MJ was rated to tow only 2,000 or 2,500 pounds.

Correct. That wire on the distribution block is for the brake system warning light. When one circuit (front or rear) loses pressure, there's a shuttle valve that slides inside the distribution block to close that switch. The reset procedure is to stomp on the brakes HARD and sharply a couple of times to reset the shuttle valve to the center position.

Where did you find info on an inductive pickup? I didn't see any link to instructions on the AutoZone site, and the OP said it came with "a thing to splice into the tach wire," so I assumed it came with "a thing to splice into the tach wire."

If you have to splice into the tach feed wire, it doesn't have inductive pickup. There's also a tach signal in one of the yellow diagnostic connectors. Try poking the green wire in there. http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf Scroll to page 19 for the diagnostic connector pinouts.

There was a special Jeep tool for separating the upper and lower halves of the shifter. Several years ago the shop foreman at my dealer told me they never, ever used it, and they finally threw it out to make room in the tool crip for tools that fit the newer vehicles.

Yes that's it and yes I did as you said and it did nothing Then it appears you got a defective unit. Take it back.

Its a basic 40$ tach you can buy at auto zone. Think its like a auto guage? Does it have a brand name? Not that it matters, it sounds like the color coding of the wires is fairly standard. Did you try the check-out procedure I posted? This one? http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/tachometer/equus-3-3-8-in-black-bezel-electric-tachometer/255933_0_0?checkfit=true

Sounds like a Sun Super Tach http://leverfamilysite.com/images/PDF_Files/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20Sun%20Tack%20How%20do%20I%20hook%20up%20the%20wires.pdf Note that these instructions say to connect to the negative terminal on the coil. I have a Sun Super Tach in the '88 Chief. The instructions include a basic function test before making the final installation. The test instructions are: Clip the black lead to the negative battery terminal. Clip the red lead to the positive battery terminal. Clip the green lead to the negative terminal of the coil, or the tach signal point [which you can also tap off the appropriate terminal in one of the two diagnostic test blocks -- you can find that in the factory electrical manual on-line] When all [three] connections have been made, start the engine. Confirm the operation of the tachometer.

Actually, 31s will fit (on OEM Jeep rims) with no lift at all, and work very well with a 2-inch budget boost. Once you go higher than 2 inches you start to need other things, such as control arms and adjustable track bars. I bought my '88 Chief with a 4-inch lift and drop brackets, and I wheeled it like that on 31s for a couple or three years. Then I had an attack of sanity, removed the lift, and I was much happier.

Where did you find dimensions? I didn't see any specs when I clicked your link.

So what? The bushing that comes in the shackle doesn't fit the spring, it's the frame end. If it'll hold up a full-size pickup, it'll hold up a Comanche. There's also a Chevy shackle that's virtually identical to the MJ shackle, but I don't remember what year or model it fits, and I don't have a part number.

You seem to be approaching this in reverse. The usual sequence is to (1) find that certain trails require more ground clearance than your rig provides; (2) select a larger tire size (and wheel size if the tires are too large for OEM wheels; and then (3) select the amount of lift necessary to run the selected tire size. Before I would consider trying to answer your question, I would want to know why you think it's necessary to lift your truck, and how you arrived at the choice of a 3" to 3-1/2" lift.

It's not all unicorn talk. There is (or was) also another Youtube video by "Minimopar" that dissected oil filters and found Fram to be about the worst of the lot. But the real evidence is the huge numbers of Jeepers who have reported oil pressure problems, cold start knocks, and other symptoms that disappeared once they switched from Fram to a good filter. Don't ... use ... FRAM ... filters.

Check the two front and one rear flex hose. The panic stop may have ruptured the inner membrane but not (yet) blown out the outer.

Comanches usually had a factory "build sheet" concealed in them that listed all the codes for the standard and optional equipment on the vehicle. The two places must people have found this sheet are under the seat (inside the seat, up in the spring area), and inside the driver's door. But this list only shows what was installed at the factory, it won't show options that were installed at the dealership at the time of sale. The water could be from the rear window, or it could be entering where the major electrical connector for the fuse panel passes through the firewall. Or, possibly, the windshield.

well ill be re doing the fuel system so the charcoal can go to and no ac ect and my 4x4 isnt vacuum controlled so I'm good there. as far as the regulator goes, I'm having a custom fuel rail made so i can mount a boost referenced FPR. but cool looks like i know what I'm doing Saturday!! lol As Nori mentioned, the heat/vent controls are vacuum operated. So is your 4WD, but there are ways to get around that.

Back when milk companies still delivered and milk crates were made of wood and metal instead of plastic, I used a milk crate for a seat in my '47 Hudson pickup for awhile.

The spring rates are significantly different. However, the metric ton springs have either one or two extra leaves, so whether just the main leaf might be the same is anybody's guess. My guess would not ... probably not the same.

Chrysler-Jeep's motivation doesn't matter. If they don't even tell their dealers what the specs are, where would you look for them? In past years, there were people who posted periodically on NAXJA about having had their flywheels resurfaced, and the results were always horror stories. Of course, I'm sure that was because the shops milled them flat, but there was a reason why Jeep said not to machine them.

I don't know if specs are available. The FSM says the flywheel should not be resurfaced, only replaced.

If the difference was the same as for Cherokees, the optional heavy-duty suspension got gas shocks and thestandard suspension had conventional (non-gas) shocks.

It's not as hilly around me as it is around Frank the Dog, but it's not exactly "level," either. And while we have some 65 MPH highways, we have more 55 MPH highways around here. With a Renix 4.0L and 3.07 gears, 5th gear is useless under 55 MPH so anywhere but on the highway (and even there to go up some hills) 4th gear is what sees the most use. 3.55s or 3.73s would allow more use of 5th gear and that would probably help the overall fuel economy more than it hurts. Everyone's driving conditions are style are different. Gear choice is not a one-size-fits-all proposition.