Motion Offroad

And lastly... You can get one from the 91+ XJ's. The part number is 56005900.

The XJ is spring over (SOA) and the MJ is spring under (SUA). Also the location of the perches are different between the two.

Rear leafs are made to our specs by Alcan. Fronts are made to our specs by Dendoff; same company who makes RE and Fabtech coils.

I think I have one laying around I'd probably part with....

If you need the directions we're happy to email them to you as we have them scanned in. Just shoot us an email at support (at) motionoffroad.com.

The ARB bumper does not have d-ring tabs on it. Everyone thinks that's what they are but they are actually mounting points for a hi-lift jack. ARB sells an adapter that mounts on those tabs to use your hi-lift. The tabs are not meant to be used for d-rings on recovery. Sorry just thought I'd share that bit of info.

Sorry we couldn't be of any more help for ya. Jeremy @ RK has this issue with selling individual parts of kits.... not sure why. We tried! If I can find the time I'll try to get some detailed pics of the RK brackets for you. Give me a bit of time but we're still willing to try to help ya get it taken care of.

I think the point is that he can use 2wd in low range without applying power to the front wheels (as long as their is no locker) since the vac. disco can be disconnected. It's much cheaper doing it the way he's talking above than running the Tera-Low kit and having to tear apart the t-case. OR Maybe I'm just miss-understanding the original post...

You re-use your factory bumper mounting brackets.

If your able to twist your tie rod than your tie rod ends are not tight in the tie rod itself. The tie rod itself should not twist, the twist will come from the tre's as I stated above. You want your tre's as tight as you can get them in the tie rod, any movement as we've already all agreed upon is from the TRE's, not the tie rod moving from where it connects to the TRE.

I was referring to the drag link and tie rod together moving. Yes the tierod will turn a bit, but the draglink and the tie rod together should not move as described. What I'm saying is if you grab your tie rod and turn it, the draglink should not also turn that same amount. As I said above, the movement is in the TRE itself; which I think we've all agreed upon.

Looks like it's got a Trail Ready bumper on the front. Those are some $$$...

That does not necessarily mean that the tie rod end is bad. It could just be a hardened rubber boot thats somewhat dryed out over the years. However most likely it's your tie rod ends that have bit the dust. If you replace your TRE's it's also a good time to consider upgrading to a heavier duty tie rod if you ever take your Jeep offroad (or possibly may in the future), as the factory tie rod is very easily bent when given stress.

HUH? They should not "twist" 1/2" as he described. As your suspension cycles they will move up and down (vertical) but should move very minimal side to side (horizontal). The movement described is called "tierod roll" and should not be happening at all. Your steering will be sloppy, and it can even lead to death wobble. The tierod should not twist, you want it as tight (won't twist) as you can get it. The movement needed is in the TRE (tie rod end), but if your able to twist the tierod itself than their are greater issues at hand.

No they shouldn't move.

Or just run some wires from the resistor into the cab and while at WOT test it with an volt meter. 8)

We get them at our local boat supply store. I'm sure you can find a source for them online. Yes they are pretty much at the lowest point. I will also add that we've put them in upside down (front underneath). That way you don't have that little tightening rod sticking up in your floor. They than set much more flush that way. I've also seen them with a little hinge type handle on them at our local hardware store. I"d assume that they work the same way...

Or if you plan on hercing (or similar) you can get the drain plugs they use on boats and use them to let water out if you ever dunk it. Something similar to this: Tighten it and it pulls the rubber up and seals the hole.

Not true.

The higher the mount the more of an angle your driveshaft will be; not to mention it will funk up your transfer case linkage as the "z -patern" uses a body mount as well.

Actually it only went up $90 for the MJ kit, and $75 for the XJ kit. :cheers:

What longarms are you buying? Different setups (TNT, Claytons, RK, RE, Full Traction, Etc.) all use a different location to mount the arms on the body side. Not to mention that they all use a different type of joint; thus being a different size mount. Also different arms are different lengths, so your control arms may be to short or to long with another mount setup. For instance a TNT arm won't work on a RE mount. I'd figure out what type of arms your buying and try to get the correct mounts for them.

That's pretty much what I remember ... If you read those owner's manual entries carefully, none of the conditions described covers front wheels on a dolly and rear wheels on the road. When the owner's manual talks about towing 4-wheel drive vehicles on dollies, they are referring to front wheels on the hook and off the ground, and REAR wheels on dollies so the front wheels aren't spinning while you're towing. Read the 2nd paragraph in the very 1st pic. It states it in black and white (pun intended). ;)

Just a FYI! More info can be found HERE.

We have seen the exact same issue.