Motion Offroad

Dangit! Someone had to post this! We've been trying to find a LWB MJ so we can build rock rails and rear bumpers off of and we've found this one about an hour away for cheap. So if anyone wants to see these products on the market anytime soon, DON'T BID! :D

No issues with that combo; should even hold 35's if you want...

Depends on the type of wheeling you do I guess and if it see's a lot of street use. You'd probably be better with a set of 31's locked than 33's locked.

A good 80% of the name brand welders that are 115v advertise 1/4" in a single pass...

They are all 27 spline. C-clip was used from '89-'92 in the MJ's; earlier models were the non c-clip. If you have an '89 than the only way to tell is to open it up. Hope your not planning on running large tires with a locked D35; the shafts or spiders won't last long.

You mean from closed to open? ;) Look in the "DIY" section, there is a good write-up there. EDIT: Here is the link; http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695

Looking into a 110/115volt mig welder. I've come to the realization that 230volt is getting harder and harder to come by; as not everyone has it. So we're looking into a smaller, more mobile unit. Anyone have any recommendations? I'm wanting something that can still handle 1/4" with good penetration.

Not true. The Aussie is about 30% larger, stronger (different steel), and a somewhat different design. Bill from Torq Masters (Aussie) was the one who designed the original Lock-Rite when he was Executive Vice President of Vehicular Technologies, Inc, that owned the Lock Right patents and brought the product to market in 1993 and will be glad to tell you that they are not the same (he designed both of them). Edit: From Bill himself...

That black section is actually a "tape" type thing. Pull the side molding off first, than if you use a heat gun you may be able to peal it all off, exposing the original white under it.

The frame rails on the MJ are different than the XJ. So the majority of skid plates out there won't work on the MJ's that were originally designed for the XJ Cherokee's. That being said; we have no personal experience with the Rusty's unit directly. The Skid Row one is a very similar design and we do have experience with trying to fit that on the MJ and it won't without modifying it to fit. This is the same with the Warn TC skid; won't work without being modified.

Smittybilt made a rear tube bumper for the MJ's. Also Mopar had a factory tube bumper available for the MJ's that had a cutout for the license plate even.

I'd run an 8" wide rim for that size tire if I had a choice.

I'll beat that price... You have a PM.

With the increase in metal prices these days you may get more $$ scrapping them than selling them. Just another thought...

The length of the shaft needed is directly related to the amount of lift you have in the rear (along with everything else you posted above). We can probably get you the measurement you need, but we need to know how much lift your running in the rear.

The problem is with the amount of lift your running with your stock steering setup. The higher the lift you go, the more you move your stock steering up and in the way. Your changing the angle of the draglink; thus putting it in the way of the disco. The only real solution (without going with a different steering setup) is to make a bracket like you mentioned above to raise the mount. This is why the RE Gen. 2 swaybar quick disco's mount the pin pointing outward towards the tire on that side. This is also why a lot of the aftermarket steering setups require you to re-located your swaybar mounts as they get in the way.

A photo most likely won't show you much. They wear in two places. One being the bushing end on the axle side. The bushing will eventually go bad causing "slop" between the bolt and the bushing. The other end is the TRE (body mount side). Being that the trackbar is a solid piece (non-adjustable) if the TRE end is shot you have to replace the entire piece. If the TRE is sloppy as well; it's shot.

You'll get about 50 different answers (even though there really are only 2 answers) to that question. Each have their benefits and reasons why you should lock them. The correct answer is based directly on what type of wheeling you do and what type of terrain your wheeling in.

We sure sell the snot out of them so someone must be liking them. :D Just a FYI, D30's are on backorder with no ETA as to when they will be back in stock. So you may be waiting awhile....

As stated above it's done A LOT with the XJ's. They work in the rear with upto about 4" of lift on the XJ. After that they are not long enough. We've yet to see a front XJ shaft fail in the rear of an XJ. We run one in our own XJ and by no means are "easy" on it on the trails.

Is the "post" pointing inward (away from the tire) or outward (towards the tire)?

From the 1st page. :cheers:

Smittybilt made a tube bumper for the MJ's. Their was also a factory Mopar tube bumper available for the MJ's (though it's rare).

Sorry couldn't resist... Hey it's a Jeep to! :D

I'd pull the front D-shaft just for added safety. It's only about a 10 min job and the piece of mind that your not gonna blow your TC is nice.