Motion Offroad

SOA in the rear will net you a min. of 5.5". Most see right at 6.5" of lift with a SOA on the MJ's using the factory shackle. It will be based on what leafs your using (4wd, 2wd, or metric ton). It will also be based on what leaf perches you use. Some perches sit higher than others so you'll get more lift simply due to that fact. The majority of people who go SOA will run a 6.5" coil in the front to make it look "level".

Gen-Right is in the process of coming out with an new XJ fuel tank. It looks promising from the photo's/info I've been given on it. Of course it'll have the Gen-Right price tag along with it, so that is something to consider with the DIY job your wanting to do.

The YJ yoke is longer, however it is not fully splined all the way. So what you gain in length, you loose in spline engagment (so it's kind of a wash). I don't know however how much (if any) clearance the YJ yoke would have over an XJ yoke. I want to say off the top of my head it's very minimal. XJ 2wd and 4wd yokes are a bit different, but one again I'm not sure how much (if any) clearance a 2wd yoke would give you. A longer yoke won't solve the issue at hand. All it will do is allow for the yoke to pull out further at suspension flex. Just make sure that it's not to long as it will also push in, and you don't want it to push in to far (ie. bust the t-case). The yoke length will not change the the placement of the u-joint on the d-shaft. You'll need to do at least a TC drop.

In addition to the things mentioned here already you'll probably need longer swaybar end links. The stock one's won't be long enough at that height. If you try to use the factory one's you'll probably end up binding them pretty bad, and it actually may cause you less lift than you were hoping for. We recommend having the swaybar connect if your driving your Jeep on the road. So don't ditch it, and don't run it with the end links disconnected. Get yourself a set of longer links (or even a set of disco's if $$ allows). Best of luck! :cheers:

Jeff brings up a key point here. Most aftermarket perches have a larger hole for the center pin. Not having the correct size hole (or the correct size center pin if you run aftermarket perches) can/may lead to having your leaf's break. What happens is the leaf may shift back and forth a bit, thus causing stress and it will eventually break at the center pin hole. You also need to consider the length of the perch in relation to the arch of your leaf springs. If you have to long of a perch when you tighten everything down it will essentially "flatten" the arch of the leaf, thus not giving you as much lift as you wanted, and also causing stress to the pack. Just something to consider as Jeff pointed out above.

The 4.5" RE kit is for an XJ, not for a MJ. So that is why you see the info on the SYE, as the XJ has a much shorter wheelbase and a SYE is typically required when going higher than 3.5" on the XJ's. Being that the MJ has a much longer wheelbase a SYE really isn't needed until the 6.5"+ height. Also, just in case you were not aware, the RE kit as I said prior is for an XJ. The rear leafs out of the XJ will NOT fit into the MJ. Also if you were considering the AAL kit (RE611) the XJ AAL will not give 4.5" of lift on the MJ's. So your still left with figuring out a way to lift the rear. We're a bit biased as to what kit is "better", but we're also a RE dealer and sell a lot of RE parts. So if your wanting RE parts in your MJ lift kit, we're happy to put a custom kit together for you. Just give us a call and we'll get you a quote with what you want.

1st Gen. Trail Ready bumper. No longer made....

Adjustable control arm's won't be the source of any clanking, as they don't' have any movable parts in them; only the arm itself will move. Just make sure you keep the 3 area's on each arm greased well. Now the disco's on the other hand may "clank" a bit. They'll quite down after a bit of road use as the bushings wear in.

Sounds like a stock 4-leaf pack w. added arch for more lift with an overload AAL. Definitely not MT springs. The real MT springs gave me 2.5"-3" lift (equally on both sides) plus the added load capacity. And yeah, I use mine as a truck. :D Glad I got the ones I have. We never called them Metric Tone leafs, we call them Heavy Duty as they have a higher load capacity than our normal set does. The leaf configuration is different on the HD version for leaf #2, #3, and #4 than the normal version is, thus resulting in a higher load capacity. Nowhere do we ever call them Metric Tone leafs...

He got a set of our MJ 4.5" lift leafs in the heavy duty version. Our normal version has a load capacity of 960, the HD version is 1300. Our leafs are a 4 leaf pack with an overload leaf on the bottom; as they are trucks and some people do use them as such. CW I'm a bit confused about the center pin issue. Maybe the photo's are throwing me off as it looks like you've got a different perch (aftermarket) and the photo isn't even of our leaf showing the center pin. THIS PHOTO is what I'm referring to. However your installed photo shows a factory perch being used. We've used the same center pins for all our leafs and never ran into the issue of it being way to small. Are you running different perches? Please elaborate so we can resolve any further issues in our next batch of leafs. As far as the distance from the bushing to the center pin, we've made the axle sit in the same spot as it did from the factory; just lower. As the leaf compresses the wheel will move backward due to the shackle being in the rear. If you move the location much further back you'll run into issues with tires hitting the fender and also with the factory d-shaft than being to short at full flex. Possibly just a design difference between ours and Rustys, but we felt that we'd rather keep it in the factory location and not lead to other issues caused by lifting. By your post it sounds like you had a leaning issue prior to even installing the leafs which you made up for by adjusting the ACOS to different heights? Comanches are built with the gas tank on the driver's side, if the truck is used mainly as a single person vehicle, the driver's side springs (both front and rear) will see more use than the passenger's side spring. This is why many vehicles built this way lean to the left slightly. You did wait to tighten anything down untill Jeep was sitting on it's own weight correct? Go flex it a bit, the leafs should level themselves out.

Call me crazy, but if your going to drop $800 in a kit to rebuild your motor why don't you just swap in a 4.0L? I'm not here to bash the 2.5L, but I think I could swap in the 4.0L for less than $800. Just offering another opinion....

Just convert it to propane. :D

Where are you getting these prices? Cheapest we've been able to find is ~$1300 for the front and ~$1200 for the rear. And that's getting a "deal"...

XJ rear bumper will not work on the MJ without extensive modification. Not sure what Warn brush guard you have, but to my knowledge the normal one never used an "L" bracket. The guard just bolted to existing holes in the frame rail. Here is install directions; http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/29173D0-pn39563.pdf

Lock-Rite vs. Aussie... The Aussie is about 30% larger, stronger (different steel), and a somewhat different design. Bill from Torq Masters (Aussie) was the one who designed the original Lock-Rite when he was Executive Vice President of Vehicular Technologies, Inc, that owned the Lock Right patents and brought the product to market in 1993. Aussie doesn't require the "high strength cross shaft", the Lock Rite does because they use "shear pins", and the "high strength cross shaft" protects their "shear pins". The Aussie doesn't design their pins to break, so they don't need the extra strength of the cross shaft to keep the pins from breaking. The Aussie isn't an exact copy. Bill designed the Aussie to be an improvement over the Lock Rite, so undoubtedly they share similarities; it's not like it's a complicated mechanism, and honestly you can't design it to be much more than it is. And from Bill himself... Probably more than you wanted to know... :roll:

Yes they bolt right in. They will lower the rear aprox. .5" - .75" over the MJ shackles.

If your going to do an upgrade the D300 is really the only way to go if your doing a "junkyard" swap. It'll have to be flipped to fit in the XJ/MJ with a clocking ring but it'll fit. Still cheaper than an Atlas or Stak. Why not just run the Tera Low in the NP231? It can be bought for under $250 and is an easy mod to DIY. It'll give you what your after. With a heavy duty SYE with the larger output shaft and a chain upgrade out of a Chevy NP231 you'll probably still have less $$ than putting a D300 in and it'll be just as strong.

Depends if your running the flares or not. 3" would be about as high as I'd go with that size tire.

This is only used for reference and don't "quote" us on this. As we measured a MJ without rear flares so we're somewhat "guessing" based on what the flare should be. Maybe some who's running our rear leafs who's still got flares can chime in to give you the exact measurement your looking for. 3" Leafs - 23.5" 4.5" Leafs - 25"

Your going to want to use a shackle of some sorts. I'm not even sure if you could get the main leaf to fit in there and bolt down correctly. The shackle will smoothen out the ride quality, not running it would make it ride terrible. That is why I suggested the XJ shackle as you will gain very minimal lift by using it, but it will still allow the leaf pack to move (and flex); helping both on and offroad ride.

SOA in the rear will net you a min. of 5.5". Most see right at 6.5" of lift with a SOA on the MJ's using the factory shackle. It will be based on what leafs your using (4wd, 2wd, or metric ton). It will also be based on what leaf perches you use. Some perches sit higher than others so you'll get more lift simply due to that fact. The majority of people who go SOA will run a 6.5" coil in the front to make it look "level". If your to high in the back you can use a factory XJ shackle and it will lower the rear about .5-.75".

Ford Motorsport 19.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-C302) Ford Motorsport 24.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-A302) Ford Motorsport 30.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-B302)

The width will vary among years/manufactures. If you don't get something close to the stock WMS of your MJ you'll have to either run spacers, or cut down the tubes etc. Your best bet is to try to find an XJ D44. They are getting harder to come by and the price on them seems to keep going higher. But it will have the same WMS that you need and the only thing your going to have to do is re-weld on new spring perches. You can also find D44's in Amigo's as well as older IH Scouts. The Scouts are the wrong bolt pattern and will require a set of spacers to get the WMS the same as the front D30. I don't know much about the Amigo D44's....

90% of the aftermarket trackbars out on the market will not work with that minimal amount of lift. Your cheapest / best option is probably to just replace it with a OEM or factory replacement one. You should be able to get one at your local auto-supply store. If your wanting aftermarket, we offer one that will work with your lift height. It's much beefier than stock and comes with a lifetime warranty. Nice thing is that it's adjustable so you can center your axle precisely and if you ever go higher you won't need to get another one (unless you go higher than 4"). http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=134

What brand? Rubicon Express one's you can only use the drop bracket, as the supports will not work on the MJ. Directions - http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img/Produ ... ions/0.pdf Rough Country one's you can only use the drop bracket, as the supports as well will not work on the MJ. Directions - http://roughcountry.com/install/1627.pdf Rocky-Road... stay away from them. ;)