Motion Offroad

Buy stock in batteries. Kodak's like to eat them up!

The TrXus MT was never available in that size. The widest it was ever available in is a 10.5" in the 31" flavor.

Kinda late now isn't it? Kit leaves out a lot of things that are needed at that height. Plus having rear AAL's won't last very long if you use your MJ as a truck.

It helps a TON to have an extra set of hands for the install. I'd recomend not even attempting it by yourself as you'll hate your Jeep by the time your done. It's worth a case of beer (or whatever it takes) to get your buddy to help.

If it's an auto (aw4) it could be the NSS. Put it in (N) and see if it will turn over.

Their are actually a total of 6 different sized bushings used threw out the years of the XJ/MJ. Your best bet is to simply measure the swaybar itself and get the correct size bushing based on that. We've tried and tried to come up with "this size bar was used in this year with this motor", but we've not had any luck as we've seen 2 identical same year Jeeps have different size bars. Buy a cheap micrometer and measure it, that will be the only real way to tell.

It's amazing what just a few inches does. Looks great! Thanks again for your business! :cheers:

Just take into consideration once the bed comes off you'll need to think about what your going to do with the gas tank.

I've seen guys take a large magnetic piece and put over them when the Jeep is just sitting. One of those large magnets that many contractors have on the doors of their work trucks with their business name on them etc...

Are you wanting to do this simply so you can run a cold air intake kit? The reason the '91+ intake kits won't work on the Renix motor is not due to the fact the TB is different; it's due to the fact of other stuff in the way. Here is a '87-'90 intake kit; they are not hard to find. :D http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=554

Doing the swap on a Renix motor (87-90) requires you to get creative with the throttle body itself. The Renix TB used 3 studs where the HO TB used 4. So a Renix TB is not a direct swap to the newer style intake manifold. We've in the past made a small adapter plate that allows you to run the Renix TB on a HO intake manifold. You can also get creative and use the Renix sensors on a HO TB; but it does require a bit of modification as well. Is it worth the hassle? I think you'll see good gains from doing so.

Control Arm lengths are always measured center eye to center eye (bolt hole's).

Aussie doesn't require the "high strength cross shaft", the Lock Rite does because they use "shear pins", and the "high strength cross shaft" protects their "shear pins". The Aussie doesn't design their pins to break, so they don't need the extra strength of the cross shaft to keep the pins from breaking. The Aussie isn't an exact copy. Bill designed the Aussie to be an improvement over the Lock Rite, so undoubtedly they share similarities; it's not like it's a complicated mechanism, and honestly you can't design it to be much more than it is. Here, this is a pic of the Aussie. I don't see holes, like the ones drilled in the Lock Rite. I see solid cuts, meaning a stronger unit. I also don't see any shear pins like the Lock Rite has. You've stated you've installed both; you can honestly say you didn't see a difference? I find that hard to believe being that the Aussie is even a much larger unit.

Before you pull them both make sure they look identical. Their was a difference in them among years.

Ask 50 different people what the best tire is and you'll get 50 different answers. The only real answer is a tire based on what your going to be using it for. The problem is people use the wrong tire for the wrong thing; than they immediately say "this tire sucks"; when in reality the tire may not suck if they used it correctly for what the tire was designed for. It seems like anymore people buy tires based on looks and a brand name than they do on anything else. We've tried several sets of tires in the last several years. Some we liked, some we hated. That being said Maxxis tires are on all our rigs currently.

If you run Bilsteins DO NOT run the 5125's; they are junk (in our opinion). Run the 5150's. Spend the few extra bucks on them and you'll be happy. The 5125's are the same as RE's shocks. RE just puts their name on them. Still my recommendation is going to be OME's for a daily driven rig who see's the occasional trail use. We've got them that will fit a non-lifted MJ. The only thing you'd need to do is measure eye-eye for us in the rear since 2WD and 4WD leafs tend to sit a bit different. Shocks are just like tires though; ask 50 people what the best set is and you'll get 50 different answers.

With the fronts at 4" of lift you can just under the bracket that holds them on the inner fenderwell and bend the hard line straight and move the bracket about 4" towards the coil. Their is actually a hole already drilled there that the screw will fit in. Take about 2 mins per side and you gain the needed extra length. Anything over 3.5-4" of lift you'll need longer front lines.

What amount of lift are you running? XJ rear shocks do not work on the MJ's as the eye's are different. XJ's use bar-pins at the top in the rear; where the MJ's do not. We've been running OME's lately with good results in daily-driven / mild wheeling rigs.

ONLY pre 1980 axle's are pass. side drop. 1980-82 are driver drop and good axle's to swap into a XJ/MJ. 1983-84 are driver drop but 95% of the time vac. disco and not worth the time. 1985+ are driver drop and good axles to swap into a XJ/MJ.

If your only going to run a 33-35" tire your probably better off just doing some minor upgrades to your D30. In the long run it will be cheaper and will hold up just fine. We run 35's on D30's and wheel "hard" and haven't had an issue yet that's made me say "man I wish I had a D44 front". An easy upgrade is to find the newer style shafts with the 297x joints in them. If you go hunting at a junk yard you can find them for cheap; throw in a set of quality u-joints and they will hold just fine with 33's or 35's. If your dead set on a waggy 44 swap your best bet is to call up Bob @ Treks (TNT Customs) and order a waggy 44 truss to swap into the XJ/MJ. It's the easiest and in the long run the cheapest way to get the D44 into your XJ/MJ. Also remember that waggy 44's are 5 on 5.5 (you currently have 5 on 4.5), so your going to have to run a different set of rims for the front than the rear if your keeping your current rear axle. If you do any amount of wheeling carrying 2 different spares gets old quickly.

Your talking rear axle, the thread is about FRONT axles. The XJ/MJ never came with anything put a D30 in the front.

Waggy axle's are not "full width". They are basically the same width of your D30.

Our MJ leafs on on sale. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 323#109323

AMC 20 was only offered in '86 model's to the best of my knowledge.

They won't ship for at least another 2 weeks per my convo with Bill @ Torq Master's on Monday. Heck, they haven't even had one installed in an axle yet as of Monday to test it out. So given that info, I'd expect it to be probably another month before they actually ship. They've taken a lot of flack on the 8.25 Aussie. They were supposed to be out 3 years ago and I think Bill's jumped the gun releasing info before they've actually even tested them. Don't get your hopes up to much quite yet, no vendors have received any of them yet for resale. We've got 50 on order and paid for; have for 6 months. So we'll see what happens when/if they ship....