Motion Offroad

The NP231 was sold in several different configs. The renix era 231 was sold as a 21 spline input and had the stuff for the vac. disco axle. The 231 upto 1996 was sold as a 23 spline input and didn't have the vac. disco stuff. Than 1997 on it was 23 spline and even a different configuration. If your replacing the chain, now is a good time to upgrade it to the wider/stronger chevy 231 chain. JB Conversions sell a kit with everything needed, or you can source the parts yourself. It's part number is 2032 and it's kinda salty (around $325), but if you offroad your rig it's a great upgrade to make a very heavy duty NP231.

Yes the WMS is 4" wider, and yes it has a different bolt pattern than the rear would. So your going to be wider in the front, and the bolt pattern is different. Enough reason for a lot of guys to not even consider the swap. The control arm mounts all line up. The coil spring buckets are not in the correct place, but they can be made to work if you don't mind your coils not sitting 100% straight up and down. The easiest solution would be to move them inward (solves the trackbar issue now). It can be made to work without moving the coil buckets, but the correct solution would be to move them inward. Than the only part needed to be made would be the draglink as the JK draglink won't work. Also now to the best of my knowledge the JK axles are being sold new without bracketry. So you've either got to find a JK D44 front with everything on it, or put it on yourself. Shown here in an XJ.

It is essentially "bolt-on". You need to modify your steering (draglink) and trackbar, but everything else will "bolt-on".

9" of lift is a LOT of lift to fit 33's. Heck we run 33's on 3.5" of lift on our XJ. The D30 can handle upto 35's without issues. If you have the vac. disco version you can easily swap in a new 1-peice shaft in to make it stronger. You can also swap in the 290x joint shafts out of a new XJ D30 (they go right in without issues) to make it even stronger. Do a few minimal mods and you'll be fine upto 37" tires on the D30. The manual to auto conversion can be a pain, as you'll need a lot of the auto wiring harness to do the job. Your best bet is to just find a donor and yank the entire harness out with the TCU/ECM attached. Also I think the MJ Shortbed is the perfect wheelbase personally. Bob the bed so it doesn't get hung up but the wheelbase has served my needs perfectly in the years I've been wheeling. Also glad to see another MJ owner in the Indiana area. :cheers:

Looks good Jordan! :cheers:

They were often found on the 1986 model XJ's and MJ's. The first year of the XJ Wagoneer also sometimes had them.

The original flares were held on with a metal strip with studs welded to it. 9 times out of 10 the studs will break off when you try to remove the nuts off of them. What most (including myself) have done to re-attach them is just use a bolt with a washer on both sides, with a lock nut on the back side. I think it works out better than using the factory style setup. The factory hardware is still available for the front, but the rear for the MJ is not available. You may be able to mod the XJ rear flare hardware to work, but the bolt pattern is a bit different between the XJ and the MJ rear flares. As far as the bushwackers go, they are available specifically for the MJ's. We have a few photo's of them installed on a MJ on our website if you'd like to know what it looks like.

I believe the black one's only are available in a 15x7 size with a factory(ish) backspacing, the gold (factory option for the Golden Eagle models) as well as the silver one's are a 15x8. So if your going to be running a 31" or larger tire the black one's are not the wheels you need unfortunately.

Sounds like a bad blower motor resistor.

The AW4 changed spline count around mid 1990. Early models were 21 spline, later were 23 spline. The newer one will physically bolt up, however the older TC you have will not bolt to the newer AW4. If you use a new TC they do not the have vac. disco stuff so you'll than need to address the vac. disco on the D30 axle.

To all our local customer's. We’ve decided this year to help sponsor the 3rd Annual O’Daniels Jeep Jam to help benefit the Disabled American Veteran's of Allen County. We’re bringing our RTI Ramp out, and will have a booth showcasing some of the products we carry. We’ll be bringing a few of our own rigs to showcase as well. Be sure to stop by and check out the Jeep Jam Only special’s we’re offering, and bring your Jeep to test it out on our RTI ramp. We've also got over a $1000 worth of parts that we're going to be giving away. The event is FREE to attend, so bring the family along! Their will be things for Jeepers of all ages! This event will be held at O'Daniels Jeep in Fort Wayne, Indiana. The address is 5611 Illinois Road. It's just off of exit 105A on I69. Hope to see you there!

This is what I would recommend as well. Or if you want to drop the $$ go with a set of 2" OME front coils.

Our 3" leafs are designed to match our 3" front XJ/MJ coils that we use in our lift kits. We've designed our 3" leafs to match the front coils in both spring rate as well as lift height. So when you run them together you'll have a lift that will match front to rear. Based on the measurements you have given us after installing the leafs, you've gotten 3-3.5" of lift in the rear. This is based on the average height of a MJ in the rear from the factory. I should also point out that prior in your build thread you state that you've replaced your leafs and netted quite a few inches over what you had. So, if you're measuring based on the "new old" leafs compared to our leafs your measurement is going to be off anyways. Now here is where the problems is. 2wd, 4wd, and Metric Ton leafs all will ride at a different height from the factory. We've taken the average of this height and designed our leafs off of this, as well as to match our 3" front coils. So you measure prior to lifting, install a set of our leafs, and then measure after. The measurement is going to be directly related to what set of factory leafs you have in it from the factory as all our leafs are created equal. Someone who had 2wd leafs in it from the factory may measure 4" of lift, someone who had Metric Ton leafs from the factory may measure only 1.5" of lift. This does NOT mean that the leafs only lifted you that amount. Measuring like this is pointless and will only cause frustration. Solution? Design about 4 different leafs based on what factory leafs you had. (that's not going to happen, sorry). But now here is the other problem with this solution. You now have a mismatched set of front coils. So now we've got to design 4 different 3" front coil sets to match the rear leaf packs. Now a 3" lift front coil really isn't a 3" lift coil, it's a 2" coil, or a 5" coil, etc. etc. This is not beneficial to anyone, including us, the manufacturer to do things this way. See where I am going with this? Measuring the rear lift height based on what set of factory leafs you had is essentially pointless and the numbers will vary greatly among the different models. This is why we've designed our leafs the way we have, and matched them to our 3" front coils. Trust us, we've done our research on this and we've not "designed making a faulty assumption about the stock height of a Comanche". With over 50 sets of 3" leafs sold in the past 12 months you're the ONLY one who's complained about the lift height achieved from them. I'd also venture to say that it's more the fact that you put in our 4.5" front coils instead of what was intended for the 3" lift with the 3" coils. Putting a 4.5" coil in the front and a 3" leaf in the back will make it sit the way it did. Actually I'd say that a good percentage of customers who order our MJ 3" lift kit call back after installing it and order a 3/4" spacer for the front to level it out as they want it to sit "level" from front to rear. Here is another example. A XJ with the "Up Country" package sits 1" higher from the factory than a normal XJ does. You purchase a 3" lift kit and install it on the "Up Country" XJ. So now did you put a 3" lift on it or a 2" lift on it? It's a 3" lift but it will only sit 2" higher than what it already did. Hopefully this has shed some light to the topic and you now understand that a quality lift kit is designed the way it is for a purpose. We are sorry you are unhappy with the results of the rear leafs. As stated prior we have not had any complaints with our leafs matched with the correct set of front coils.

Funny you should mention that. I was looking at the prototype set today and thinking to myself; I really need to get those done. We've just been so busy with JK stuff lately... Yes, we will be offering metal tail lights with LED's in them. We hope to have them available by Christmas.

Pro Comp never made a 6" lift for the XJ/MJ. So I'd assume they are using TJ coils, which will have the wrong spring rate for the MJ and probably not ride the best. I'd also question things like control arms, trackbar, etc. since PC never made a lift that large for the XJ/MJ platform.

This is correct. We've been on the hunt for some time to find a LWB MJ that is not rusted to crap. It's hard to find a rust free MJ in the Midwest to say the least. We've had a few guys offer to let us borrow a LWB MJ but nobody has made good on it quite yet. We're still working on trying to get our hands on one. They are 1 item that is on the top of our list, along with MJ rear bumpers, and a few other MJ specific products you'll not be able to find anywhere else.

Re-gearing the axle's in the MJ to get better MPG's is a heck of a lot cheaper than buying another Jeep (Wranglers seem to hold their value better than the XJ/MJ/ZJ does). Just my penny and a half worth... :cheers:

The Renix has the EGR system, where the HO does not. So if you use a HO header on the Renix motor you must do something about the EGR setup. Also it may "bolt up", but they are different as far as the location of the exhaust ports between the HO and the Renix goes on the head itself.

I would assume they are talking FSJ Cherokee vs. XJ Cherokee. I could be wrong but that is just an assumption. To the best of my knowledge all XJ and MJ D44's were created equal. You do know you can use the disc brake setup off a a ZJ Dana 35 with a TJ Rubicon D44 backing plate for essentially a "bolt-on" setup on the D44's correct? If you can't get the TJ D44 adaptor, you can make a spacer shim with just a bit of work to get them to fit on.

Several companies offer XJ AAL's that will work in the MJ. Full Traction (they offer both short and long) SuperLift (long only) Rough Country (they offer both short and long) Rubicon Express (they offer both short and long) Old Man Emu (long only) SkyJacker (they offer both short and long) Fabtech (short only) TrailMaster (short only) Rancho (they offer both short and long) Lift height will be determined by the arch of the AAL. Typically however the higher the arch, the harsher the ride quality is. You also have to factor in that the XJ leaf is much flater, so adding a higher arched AAL on the XJ will typically net a set amount of lift. On the MJ's the factory pack already has a bit more arch, so adding an AAL may not lift any amount at all. An AAL is adding height by using a higher spring-rated leaf pack to compensate for the additional height that you're trying to achieve. This means that the added leaf has to be much stiffer in order to lift the vehicle. You are asking this one leaf (per side) to not only lift and support the vehicle but it also has to deal with the resistance of the less curved stock spring pack. This leads to many issues down the road, typically a very saggy factory pack, and sometimes broke factory leafs. In my very humble opinion I will always recommend a full pack replacement for a long-term solution. When you have a full leaf pack with springs of all the same spring rate then they will work much better. More often than not it will provide a better ride, more flex and a longer lasting more reliable lift than an AAL ever will. Yes, its costs more but I tend to think long term. An AAL may be a cheaper solution now, but down the road you'll end up most likely spending more money fixing the problem's caused by the AAL's.

The person who owns that MJ is on here.

This is true, and it's now available. They can be retrofitted to any new OR old OX ever built. Greg @ OX last time I talked to him said they are working on a electric actuator as well. So soon you'll be able to pick whatever way you want to control their locker.

Ask 100 different people what the best tire is and you'll get 100 different answers. It really depends on what your going to be using your Jeep for and what type of terrain you'll be using it in. Also it depends on your location, as "mud" in the west and "mud" in the east are 2 totally different things. We used to be BFG MT fans, but we've been running the Maxxis Bighorn's now and love them. We love them so much it's the ONLY tire we sell. :D

Here is the directions we include with our coils spacers. Dunno if it'll help but here it is anyways... Installation Information: 1. Secure and properly block the tires on the vehicle on a level concrete surface. Jack up the vehicle and place the front of the vehicle on jack stands. 2, Remove the front wheels and tires. Support the axle with a floor jack. 3. Remove the stock shock absorber using a 15mm wrench. The stock bolts and nuts on the bottom of the shock will be reused. Note: Access to the upper shock studs will be obtained through the engine compartment. It also may be necessary to temporarily remove the washer fluid reservoir to access the driver side upper shock mount nut. 4. Remove the sway bar links on both sides using a T-55 torx bit/19mm wrench and a 15mm for the upper nut. (Figure 1) 5. Located and remove the coil slip on the lower coil spring seat. Lower the axle to allow for removal of the coil spring. (Figure 2) 6. Remove the stock coil springs. If needed, use a strut compressor to remove the coils. 7. Slide the Motion Offroad coil spacer over the factory upper bumpstop nubber. It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to hit the coil spacer into place. Notice the cut in the coil spacer; the cut side goes towards the back inner fender well. 8. Install factory coil spring and coil spring clip back onto the lower coil spring seat. 9. Attach sway bar end links to the sway bar and tighten. 10. Reinstall the shocks. 11. Install front wheels and tires. Jack up the vehicles, remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Stock height is 19" in the rear. This will give or take just a smidge based on what set of leafs you have from the factory (2wd vs. 4wd vs. metric ton) and what axle it came with. But 19" is the base measurement. So with 19" as the base measurement, you measured 22.5. With this measurement that puts you at 3.5" of lift. They probally will settle a bit with a bit of use and should net the 3" as advertised.