Motion Offroad

If your upgrading to the 1 piece shafts just make sure you get a set with the larger 297x joints on them. Depending on if it had ABS or not will depend on what joints it had. Yes you will need new seals as well. The best thing to do is buy the conversion kit (includes seals and a block off plate) made by Yukon. Part number is YAW39147-KIT and retails for $50ish. Only downfall is it comes with no directions but it's a fairly straight-forward install.

The disco housing is actually stronger than the non-disco housing as it's reinforced around the CAD. As far as the week point on the disco axle it's the shafts (smaller joints) and the 2 piece shaft on the pass side. It's easily changed to the larger 1 piece shaft using a shaft from the non-disco axle.

AMC20's in the MJ were 1-piece shafts and are a great axle. Stronger than any other axle ever offered in the MJ's (including the D44).

RE gives it's vendors a bit of ability to make some changes. For instance with a XJ 3.5" kit. We can swap out a 3.5" coil for a 4.5" coil (as they are the same price). Than just add a set of shackles to the rear of the leaf packs to get the 4.5" height. We than can sub in the RE1660 for the junk RE1600 trackbars for a small fee. So the answer is yes you can mix and match a few things, but it depends on the specific kit.

Husky makes 2 versions of the floor mats. I'm assuming your talking about the larger one that will hold the mud/water... They fit, but don't fit perfectly. So depending how anal you are it may bug you, or you may be able to live with it.

They will fit, however you will only see 1.25-1.5" of lift out of them on a MJ.

Rough Country shackles have 2 holes in them for the lower mount. If the one's installed have 2 holes than they are aftermarket. If they do not; and look stock and measure what Marcel stated above than you most likely have the factory one's still.

That question is directly related to what your going to be using your Jeep for. If your going to be using it offroad, I'd pick the NP231 anyday. Much more aftermarket support (including a heavy duty SYE; whereas the 242 only has a hack-n-tap SYE available). If your going to be driving it a lot and see snowy conditions quite often the NP242 may be a better option. Personally I'm not a fan of the NP242; but others are. As I stated above it really depends on how you use your Jeep.

That is correct; I believe the above numbers are only the 4WD models.

Chrysler jacked the price on them about 6-7 months ago. They used to be like $20, now they are over $80. $50 is a good price to be honest with ya and I doubt you'll find it cheaper. If you do you've most likely found someone who's not aware of the price raise...

The C4x4 brackets are nearly 3x's thicker than the factory OEM one's. Heck they have a 30lb shipping weight. That little bracket with the C4x4 one's in my opinion is not needed; not that it would hurt but I'd hands down take a set of C4x4 one's over the factory OEM one's.

You can use THESE with the C4x4 brackets. We can order the C4x4 set without tow hooks to save a few bucks, but you'll have to call us to order it that way. It ends up being more than the Hi-Country kit does though. The Hi-Country kits are a good quality kit. They just take a different approach to how they mount; using the swaybar holes and than the rear holes in the frame rail. We sell a lot more of the C4x4 kits however and have never had a customer complain about the setup. Yeah for the rear your pretty much SOL without a hitch or new rear bumper.

The C4x4 kit includes the tow hooks and they also include the tow hook clasp's (the things that Eagle is talking about). We need to get a better pic of the kit (with the hooks) I guess... :fool: We've beaten the heck out of the kits on our own rigs and they've held up to the years of abuse. Nice thing is they include the support brackets for the side pulls that not many other kits on the market for the similar price do.

Some argue that since the 8.8" is a semi-floating axle that the c-clips make a big difference. Some argue that they don't. A semi-floating rear axle is one in which the axle shaft does bear some of the vehicle's weight. So in addition to tortional loads, it is required to stand up to shear loads as well. My opinion is that C-clips DO make a difference in axle strength. If the axle isn't a full floater, then the stress is spread out across the axle shaft. The axle shaft rides on the outer bearings at the axle tube end and the side gears. The axle shafts neck down at the c-clip and those can break. The other side of the argument is that the c-clips are located inboard of the splines the c-clip portion of the shaft is not exposed to much (if any) torsional or shear loads. Who's right? I don't know... Also in comparing it to a D44, the D44 is the same size shaft (and doesn't neck down) and only has 1 less spline. The ring gear is larger in the 8.8", however the carrier is known to be a piece of crap and fail. The tubes on the D44 are welded, and not pressed with plugs like the 8.8". So with a D44 your much less likely to spin a tube like on the 8.8". The 8.8" does have a larger 3.25" tube, however it does neck down to 2.75" (same as D44) just before they enter the brake housings.

On a hydro shock you want the body of the shock on the bottom. On a nitro shock it does not matter as much. Ultimately I'd do what the manufacture recommends.

We call them LJ's around here, and have a lot of guys who call referring to them as LJ's. An "unlimited" around here is a 4 door JK... :D

RE9989 isn't that bracket and won't work. That bracket (the RE one) is for the axle side.

I was referring directly to the Aussie and not needing a new carrier. You'll only need a new carrier if you change gear ratio's. You'll need a new carrier on the D30 with anything 3.73 and up.

As already stated going SOA in the rear will vary greatly on what leaf pack you have from the factory and the condition of them. You'll need a 6.5" coil for it to sit level and look good. RE actually started including a front coil spacer with their 5.5" MJ lift about 8 months ago as the front coils were not tall enough.

An Aussie is considered a "lunchbox locker", your simply just taking out the carrier internals and replacing with the locker itself. The carrier is not effected at all, and it does not matter what carrier you have (aka you don't have to buy a new carrier to install an Aussie).

DOM is stronger than just a mild steel (welded seam), but as Pat said I'd still go with 1.75". The .120 wall will be fine. Our DOM cages are 1.75" .120 wall; which is what many sanctioned bodies require for DOM cages. Might as well build it to specs for a sanctioned body now even if you don't ever plan on competing; cause if in the future you decide to, it's easier (and cheaper) to have done it right to begin with.

For the MJ's: 0-1" of lift we recommend the following: Front: 23" Ext. 13.5" Col. Rear: 23" Ext. 14" Col. 2-3" of lift we recommend the following: Front: 24.5" Ext. 14.5" Col. Rear: 26" Ext. 15.5" Col. *This is just a base measurement, you should measure your MJ after the lift is installed to verify. Also the is using factory shock mounting locations.

First thing I'd do is check the bolts on the torque converter. It sounds to me that they may be loose (a somewhat common problem on the XJ/MJ with the AW4). The AW4 has 3 solenoid's that control shifting. The 1st and 2nd one simply control what gear the tranny is in. Solenoid 3 is very simple. Put power to it, and the Torque Converter will lock. Solenoid 3 is unique, in that it only controls TC lock functions. If it's "popping" when going into OD (aka torque converter lock) it may be an issues with Solenoid 3 itself as well.

We sell and install a lot of them. First timer it's about a 2-3 hour job. Directions that come with the locker arn't the best (in our opinion) but a quick online search will yield detailed install directions with pics that will help out a lot.