Motion Offroad

We can't take all the credit; DHL's pretty quick at getting the stuff where it needs to be. Shows it was delivered at 9:04 AM... nothing like waking up to a knock on the door with the delivery guy bring you Jeep parts. :D Let us know if we can be of any help in the future. Thanks again! :cheers:

I've seen an S10 bumper on a MJ before and it didn't look to bad. As far as what it takes to get it to mount up I do not know... Edit: Here is a photo of it.

The studs are part of the hardware from the factory. If you don't use the hardware you can just put a bolt threw the flare with a washer on it than put a nut on the back side. The studs from the factory are part of a long metal piece that "sandwiches" the flare to the fender. Once you have them removed and look at them you'll understand. I'd personally just go get some stainless bolts from the hardware store that fit threw the holes in the fender and attach the flares that way....

That is correct, the studs break VERY easy. You have a few options.... 1) Buy replacement factory style hardware. The front hardware is available; the rear is not. 2) Don't use the factory style hardware, and just use bolts/nuts/washers (stainless is your best bet) from the hardware store to put the flares back on.

I'd recommend putting in a quality set (not always the cheapest) as it's not the most fun job in the world to do. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks upfront knowing they will last and not have to go threw the install process again in a few years.

A XJ axle will NOT bolt into a MJ (and vice versa). The width of the spring perches are different. To make it work you'll need to weld on new spring perches on the XJ axle.

Are you wanting to lift it aprox 2"? If so you want the ZJ V8 coils, not the 4.0L coils.

We have shock sets for as cheap as $167. Our shock kits include 4 shocks; not 2. ;) The reason our kit's don't include shocks is simply due to the fact customer's are picky. We figured we'd let them decide on what they wanted instead of us throwing in a "cheap" set and the customer wanting a nicer set. It's easier to just not include them and let the customer choose what they want. 8)

Sure HGTV?.... I thought it was VS. 8) Not sure what HGTV would want to do with the Dakar.

What are you looking for? 8)

We received a call today for a supplier for MJ Comanche fuel tanks (both SWB and LWB). They are steel and brand new. We're told that the LWB one is 23.5 gallons and will replace the factory 16 gallon one with all the factory hardware. We're told that the SWB one is 18 gallons (factory specs). We've never purchased an MJ tank before as in the past we've had a difficult time locating them to purchase. So our question is this? What are the going rate for both the SWB and LWB fuel tanks. We simply want to see if it's worth our time to call this supplier back based on the prices he quoted us at wholesale. Thanks! :cheers:

What set are you referring to? The adjustable or the fixed length one's? They all have poly bushings on both sides = less flex, and harsher ride. Plus it doesn't look like they are greasable (as must with poly). Poly isn't horiable; but just run it on one side so you still have flex (flex joint on one end is preferred). Rock Kralwer adjustable's are $10 more and are solid stock with flex joints and a liftetime warranty...

Renix hoses run behind the AC. HO hoses run on top of the AC. The BRX hoses are designed off of the HO hoses, but will fit the Renix XJ/MJ without any issues.

Looks good! :cheers: Should of gotten a set of these. 8)

The 88-90 (renix) one does, but does not have a filler tube. The 91-97 one does not have the hole for the temp switch but does have a filler tube. Call, Email, or PM us if you have any other questions. :cheers:

Buy a HO t-stat housing with the bung in it. Buy the correct sensor for the t-stat housing and extend the wires to the new sensor. Works well and total cost is about $25.

We've never held our SWB sliders upto a LWB MJ to be honest with you. I know that the frame rails differ a bit between the models. The problem would be the rear mounting arm either being to short or to long, not to mention the overall length. For all I know they bolt up and the length is just to short. We just can't find a LWB MJ around locally to try or to build a set of LWB rails around.

34.5" on the XJ 30.5" on my MJ It's the 3" lift. :cheers:

Measure from the bottom of the flare lip to the ground. We have a customer's XJ sitting outside with the RC 3" lift with 31's so I'll be able to tell you if it's the 3" or the 4.5" based on what you measure.

In our opinion for 31" tires you want to keep it right around 3-3.5" of lift max. You can flex the tires out good with a quality lift at this height, but still keep your COG down on the trails. Some thoughts based on a 3" lift... Adjustable Trackbar - In our opinion anything over 2" of lift on a XJ/MJ should use an adjustable tracbar. The factory one just is not long enough. Trackbar drop brackets are justk asking for issues as well. An adjustable trackbar keeps your axle centered under your rig, and at 3" of lift it is noticeable that your axle is not centered anymore. Plus if you ran with the stock tracbar it can (and probably will) wear your tires funny over time. Trackbars are much cheaper than a new set of tires. Coils vs. Spacers - A debatable topic. In our opinion anything over 1.5" of spacer is a "no-no". I'd venture to say that in my opinion the only reason spacers should be ran is to level out a lift, or for more lift after a heavy duty aftermarket bumper and/or winch. Coils are cheap once again in the 3" range. Lower Control Arms - Once again a debatable topic in the 3" lift range. At 3"-4" of lift your lower control arms should be at least 16" long to keep the axle centered in the wheel well. That's at least 1" longer than stock. Our 3" kit includes adjustable lower control arms. Why adjustable? Many guys down the road go larger and with adjustable you don't have to buy new LCA's when/if you do go larger. Rear Leafs vs. Add A Leafs (AAL's) - Depends on the condition of your factory packs and if your going to be offroading it or using it as a truck to haul/carry things. AAL's make your leaf packs sag faster, and throwing a miss-matched leaf with more/less arch into a factory pack typically makes the ride suffer greatly. We feel new leafs are the best route; thus why our kit comes with them. Swaybar Disco's - EVERY Jeep driven on the road should have their swaybar connected. Driving your jeep offroad you'll get better flex with your swaybar disco'd. I won't school you on these; as it sounds like you already know based on your specs on your TJ. Bumpstops - XJ front bumpstops work on the MJ. The rear is a bit more tricky and we've got a trick setup for the MJ coming on the market in the very near future. Bumpstops are important as they limit the flex and provent your springs/leafs from over flexing and wearing them out sooner. Also you typically get more flex when you hit your bumpstop as it forces the other side of the axle down. Typically not as important with a 3" lift as most tires ran with 3" lifts are 31x10.5's and they stuff into the fender well's much nicer than larger/wider tires do. Just go with quality products and you'll be fine. Many vendors/manufactures think that the XJ and MJ are the same and will try to sell you an XJ lift kit. Typically this leads to poor ride quality with miss-matched spring rates and using parts that shouldn't ever of been on a MJ to begin with. With all that being said, remember that we can build our 3", 4.5", or even 6.5" MJ lift kits to your exact specs based on what you do/don't want. Also we kinda have a habit of taking a few bucks off orders for ComancheClub members. 8)

What type of switch are the rocker switches? I'm going to assume that the center prong is the ground, than the top/bottom are your power's. Ground it out, hook up the wires and if when the switch is off it activates your locker than switch the top and bottom wires around. If they are illuminated switches than ground it out, hook up your power wire and if the switch is off and the switch lights up than you've got it backwards. I don't think with the type of switch your running and if your running it via a relay your going to hurt anything. Just make sure you have it grounded first. The other wires you can figure what goes where based on the steps above.

Upper control arms don't have a bushing at the axle end... ;) So I'm going to assume your talking about the bushing on the axle itself? If so factory one's will work with any of the RE stuff.

As soon as we kinda find a long bed locally to buy for cheap; or a customer with one to borrow we'll be making them. :cheers:

Based on the manufacture, yes most skid plates are bolted on using self tappers if they do not use an existing hole. Some of them will bolt onto your factory tranny crossmember using a bolt and a nut as well. All manufacturer's are different however. As far as the rock sliders go, yes most also will bolt on using self tappers on the frame rails. A quality set will also have a pinch seam mount that uses a nut and bolt as seen here;